Clutch pedal issue
 

Hows it goin folks? I could use some help with this stupid clutch pedal issue, Goes down nearly 3 inches before I get into the actual clutch then the pedal sticks at that point Probably already a thread on this problem but whether it be through laziness or blindness I couldnt find one. here is a video of exactly what im talking about. tried playing with the linkage adjuster on the clutch didnt do any good. Please point me in the right direction to fix this, its getting annoying
video of issue here. thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Aoi...ature=youtu.be

Is your clutch hydraulic?

If it is, check the reservoir, it sounds like you're low on fluid and/or you have air in the line. If that's the case you'll have to check for leaks

No sir, Mechanical.

Well I hope someone else can help you, my knowledge on mechanical clutches is packing to say the least

The mechanical clutch linkages get badly worn due to lack of maintenance. Diagrams of them are here: Mechanical Clutch Linkage - ???Gary's Garagemahal.

From that you can see several wear points, such as:

• Pedal pivot: There's a plastic bushing (#2471) in the cast aluminum bracket that the clutch and brake pedal pivot on.
• Rod bushing: #7526 is another plastic bushing on the top and bottom ends of the vertical rod that goes from the clutch pedal to the Z-bar (#7528)
• Z-bar bushings: 7517 and 7543 support the Z-bar and are frequently "gone"
• Z-bar pivots: 7507 & 7A572 are what the Z-bar rides on, and when the bushings go these pivots wear badly
• Clutch push rod: 7A504 is the adjuster and push rod going to the clutch, and its "eye" gets badly worn

Taken together, all of this wear adds up to a huge amount of slop and eventually gets to a point the linkage will not function. Since you say the pedal sticks at a point I think something is badly worn. So, start inspecting the pieces by taking the linkage apart.

Will do, say I want to just replace all of these bushings what do you think it will cost to do all of them?
also thanks for the information.

I don't know the cost, but the problem is likely to be a lot deeper than just the bushings. If the bushings are worn then the metal parts are worn. And they'll have to be repaired before the bushings are replaced or the bushing will fail almost immediately.

Now the OP can look at the parts listed above without having to go to your website.

Upper pic shows (4) 2471 bushings & (1) 7526 bushing. Lower pic shows the other parts.

All good information given here.
I just rebuilt my clutch linkage as I found it "bad" when I was pulling my truck apart for rebuilding.
http://cars.grantskingdom.com/var/re...529_184035.jpg
http://cars.grantskingdom.com/var/re...618_092512.jpg


The pedal assy. bushings were good on both my project truck & parts truck.
What I found was the cross bar bushings gone and the frame & block pivots worn. Parts truck frame part was good but did not have the motor side. I could not find a new one so had to fix the one I had.


The rod bushing were also gone on both trucks and rods & where they fit were worn badly. Also the adjuster was not for my truck and had a lot of play so bought a new one when I bought the needed bushings.


I am sure you can buy all the parts (bushings, rod, cross shaft) thru LMC but not the motor pivot (for a 300 six) or the part the rod fits into at the pedal. Because some of the parts were more than I wanted to pay so I fixed mine. I used the new bushings to make sure I fixed it right.
http://cars.grantskingdom.com/var/re...618_133113.jpg
http://cars.grantskingdom.com/var/re...618_133433.jpg
http://cars.grantskingdom.com/var/re...618_133328.jpg


Not hard, a little welding, grinding & filing and just like new.
Dave ----