black smoke under full throttle
 

So I started to NM from fort worth texas with my 33" camper blew my CAC pipe four times. Finally got there. In the morning it took longer than expected to start. When it did white smoke. That was replaced with black smoke under full throttle. I went from elevation of 700 to 8000 Ft. Should I care about black smoke? Meaning should I take it to Ford and get a rental car to get it looked at for our trip home.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...066f612d64.jpg

96 degrees towing at 70mph with lots of climbing mountains.

I would question whether my FICM was failing. Has it ever gone lower.

Not sure if that would be cause of high temps thou.

I got the insight a few weeks ago. Since then it's been rock solid. But I replaced the alternator a few months ago and the ficm probably was starved for voltage before then. I don't know.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-of-power.html

This is a good place to start. Read that and see if it's the same

Sound like a similar issue for sure. I think I am going to roll the dice and tow the 10 hours back to fort worth. I'll get it checked out then. Thanks for the info. Leaning how the System works gives me piece of mind.

Did you check the boot at the bottom of the CAC pipe for tears, or if you have the plastic CAC pipe for cracks.

ECT is high, shouldn't see much over 220 for long, was your fan screening good? EOT very high 3 degrees from defuel. If you drop a gear on the hills, you will move water, more cooling, both coolant and oil. Your boost seems low fir a hill. But I get you think FICM, when warm it should be doing 48 volts easy. Those r high temps, what's the weight of trailer? I wouldn't expect that low boost and those temps, so......

Got a boot leak on there loosing boost, or you have sensor issues with MAF, MAP,, IAT2, or EBP. Consider cleaning all, check map and EBP and I be and run relearn? You should see 26-28 PSI those speeds, hill, temps. FWIW. Hope this helps.

Trailer weighs 10k lbs. My boost level seem to drop when I replaced the idler pulleys and water pump with a bullet proof pump. I didn't touch any of the cac system. I replaced all cac boots with new a few months ago but boost was fine after they were replaced. When I started towing the cac started comin off. Three times at the turbo and once front and center by the thermostat housing. I tightened all of the cacs except the drivers side one. I will do that now and let you know if there is any change.

So higher rpm's lower engine temps? Had no idea. I thought the opposite would happen.

Get the RPM up and cooling will be better.
Clean the EBP sensor.
Get FICM repaired soon.

Increased RPM gets increased fan speed.

Are you tuned or stock?

Is the clutch fan roaring at those temps? Unless you're blasting music, it will be very obvious if the fan is working as it should.

Black smoke, high temps (probably high egt as well) and low boost all point to a boost leak. Do you have a plastic or metal driver's side CAC tube? If plastic, it's hard to detect when they start leaking at the accordion-looking part.

Btw, defuel starts around 253 oil temp, not 243.

Bone stock except for dc power alternator, bullet proof water pump, riffraff cac boots.

Clutch fan turns on late like at 228 water temp when I am towing. It turns on earlier when I am just cruising around. All my cac pipes are aluminum. I am limited out here in the middle of nowhere. I have To drive 90 miles to get to a ford place which I am doing in the morning. I am running out of time to get it fixed before my trip back.

Reseated the cac boots all aroundnthing morning and inspected all of them. I can't see any issues at all. I wonder if egr is causing boost loss?

Boost is map and ebp sensors.
Unplug it and see what happens.
Did you check the intake piping if it's plastic?