Carburetor questions and VIN
 

Trying to get a 1984 dump truck going for ranch use only. It has a 370 in it. Regarding the carburetor - it has Holley on each end and a lot of vacuum operations on it - I would like to replace it with something less controlled - emissions are not a concern - I was advised that there is a 2 bbl that will fit the intake - anyone know where to find one? Or if anyone has anymore advice on what I should do with this carb - it either needs a rebuild or replace.


Also, the ignition system - should I replace the whole system, components - any advice is welcome.


Also, I still don't even know what model - its 29,900 gvw - Vin 1FDPF82H8EVA51492


I have tried vin decoders and have had no luck.


Anyone have a wiring diagram?


I have a spare 1995 7.3 dually with a running engine - should I look at changing engines if I want a dependable truck or is that a reasonable options.


Thanks in advance - new to the forum, but not new to mechanic work.

Welcome to FTE.

29000 GVWR with a 370. OK.

The carb. 2v or 4v? IMO just rebuild what you have. The vacuum lines--where do they lead? If you just start pulling lines you are going to have some issues. Fuel evap systems, vacuum for some controls, perhaps others including an engine speed governor, maybe. Although that should be electronic.

Ignition: This should be an electronic ignition. Is it working? Leave it alone if so.

Changing engines--gas to diesel is a pretty good project. For ranch work, which I'm figuring is a lot of stop and go, if the 370 runs, I'd leave it.

Welcome to FTE

1FD = FoMoCo USA - Ford Truck - Incomplete Vehicle.

P = Class 7 Hydraulic Brakes - 26,001-33,000 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating range.

F82 = F800 (gas).

H = 370 2V or 4V

8 = Check digit, FoMoCo use only.

E = 1984.

V = Kentucky Truck Assembly Plant.

A51492 = 1984 Numerical Sequence of Assembly, the trucks specific serial number.

For more info, take a pic or post all the codes printed on the Certification Label, glued to the left door face below the latch.

Thanks
 

Thanks to both.
The sticker has been damaged. Know that it is a F800 is good for communication purposes. I sounded like a fool saying " I need a brake cylinder for a Ford dump truck, but I don't know what model it is". Thank for the data.


It has a 4 barrel - I will try to get a number off of it tonight.
The ignitions seems to work, but the engine does not run good at any rpm - it is better at higher than lower, but it sputters all the time - that is why I am thinking that if a solve the carb related issues and it still sputters - how about going with a basic vacuum advance distributor with no module - will one from a 460 work? There are some wires that run from the module to the dist that have been hot and the insulation is gone(I did insulate them) - another reason to get rid of the module - but I am just throwing my thoughts out there - I don't want to sound like I am not taking your advice.
I know that without being here to hear it run, you can only guess at the entire picture, so I will continue to try to fill in the "voids in the picture".


Thanks again - will try to post ID of carburetor tomorrow.
BTW - I am the kind of person who hates doing things over and over - sometimes that makes things complicated - on this project for example, if the vacuum operated parts of the carb are going to give trouble from sitting (since they likely have rubber diaphragms in them) I would rather replace the carb with a more simple one now than have to deal with it year after year. That has a lot to do with some of the paths I take on projects - sometimes it works, sometimes it don't.:-X04

Any electronic ignition set up is going to have a module.

Any carb is going to have a diaphragm and rubber parts.

IMO don't reinvent the wheel, just fix what you have. A carb rebuild, 4bbl or not, Holley or not, is much simpler than rigging up an old 2bbl carb and trying to make it run right.

Check the spark plugs--maybe they are elderly and not up to the job. Wires? Is there a light show under the hood at night?

Other things to check are the air and fuel filters, condition of the fuel lines and tank (look for rust, bent or crushed lines) other fluids etc.

How are the brakes? Do you have the yellow handle for the parking brake? That would mean Luca$ Girling brake$. Do they work?

Look on the air horn/choke tower for the LIST number. That number will tell you everything you need to know about that carb and get you the correct kit for it. There will also be a Ford number such as E4XX-9510-X and a date of manufacture code.
If that 370 uses a standard 429/460 distributor (and that's a big IF) you can buy a MSD Ready-To-Run electronic distributor that has everything built inside and needs no control box/module:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...view/make/ford

Thank again
Got it running OK for a while.
It runs a little rough, but better after it warmed up. Here is everything I did to this point:
New coil
Sparks plugs were new 5 years ago so I cleaned them an put them back in - the old fuel put a coating in them that was a good insulator (I am guessing a form of varnish) - cleaning took it off easy though.
All new filters
Repair a bunch of wires that had been heating and the insulation broke off.
Drained tank and flushed with a few gallons of non ethanol gas. There is rust in the bottom of the tank along with the remaining old fuel - put 30 gal of non eth gas and 3 cans of Berryman's cleaner.
All fluids changed except power steering. Will get to that later


The truck did not run any different on a new module, but seemed better on the new coil. The distributor looks good inside and out.
The left parking brake cylinder was leaking - got to learn a little about this Girling system OUCH $450 for a new cylinder - can you rebuild these?
Yes the brakes leak brake fluid - at the on the rear axle anyway - I have seen the valve that maintains pressure on the system to prevent leaking - anyone use this valve?
Should I rebuild or replace the leaking cylinders or just keep fluid in them - remember this is a ranch truck only.
The brakes feel fine - but I have not been loaded yet.
Let me know what you think.

Also - the engine idles real low - and sputters at the lower RPM. Is this something I should address now - say rebuild the carb - or run for a while to see if it clears up with time - I am only running non ethanol fuel in it.

I have used the truck for a couple of days... a few more questions.


What fluid is good for the power steering? I put Dexron in the Park brake pump - is this good for the power steering or is there something better. The pump whines and looses power when hot. Would hydraulic fluid be better in the heat - I use John Deere Hygard in everything hydraulic.
Any suggestions?


It rained briefly one evening. I drove the truck about a mile in the rain and parked it. The next morning it took half a day for the truck to stop mis firing. I check for moisture in the distributor - dry.
Any input on this issue?


I put 50W motor oil in the transmission (5 SPD) it is very stiff - like the oil is too thin. What oil is supposed to go in these.


Overall the truck runs OK once it is warmed up. The left exhaust manifold gasket is blown and there is a bolt broke off in the head - so I doubt I will fixing that any time soon. It gets to the upper side of the temp with just a little idle time but does good for this 99F temp we are having and never getting any speed.
Any help is appreciated.

Anybody there?
The truck continues to run pretty good, except for 4 things:


It does not like moisture - it rained one night and it took 2 or 3 hours to stop mis-firing the next morning - could not see any moisture under the dist cap - what else could it be? Did the same with a smaller shower one day but barely had the problem afterwards.


The transmission oil - what should it be - someone said maybe ATF - any help is appreciated.


The power steering - gets real stiff and whiney when hot - cleaned the cooler and flush with Dexron 6 - Any suggestions?


The brakes are really hard - like the hydraboost is not working - they do work though. I have bled them and replaced all the fluid. I have not let them get air into the system. There are leaks on the rear - but some days it uses almost no fluid - other days maybe 1/4 inch. I also bled both parking brake cylinders enough to change the fluid in the hydraulic system - any thoughts?


Thanks

See if faxonautolit.com has an owners manual.

It was originally printed by Helm, I went to their website (helminc.com), they have no 1982 manuals of any type available.

Thanks
I will check that out and post what I find.
I have not been able to get online or work on mechanic jobs since the 4th - damn thieves broke in and stole my computer and almost all of my hand tools - basically took almost everything I needed to make my living. Just got a computer working yesterday - we will see what insurance pays!?!?
Dump truck is parked for now - made it thru the job I repaired it for. Getting all new snake bellies and tubes in the tires. Not worth a dime if I have to spend a day repairing tires to use it for a few hours. I think it is going to be OK for ranch work.

Thank again