Certified and EZ Wire
 

I am putting the truck back together and have am converting from 6 to 12 volt and doing a complete rewire. I am using the EZ wire kit and Certified Auto conversion kit. Has anyone else gone this route. I am having difficulty understanding just what wire(s) go to the Alternator. The certified instructions are for the original wires and the EZ are for theirs. Just to complicate it, the alt is a GM style, one wire.

What is a Certified Auto conversion kit. Not familiar. I did a total rewire also, mayby I can help you

I also used a 21 circuit EZ wire and a one wire alternator. No regulator so all of those wires go away. If I remember correctly there is an exciter wire you won't need. I don't remember if there were others. There really is only one wire to the alt.

Thanks, Smallello. That's what I'm thinking, but, I haven't convinced myself yet.


Certified is Certified Auto Electric http://www.ebay.com/itm/311548507132?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

If the link works, the kit will be shown.

I got my alternator and the slingshot mount from Certified more than 10 years ago, and have had zero problems with it.

I'm not sure why so many people have trouble with one-wires, it's very simple. The one wire (alternator output) goes to the circuit breaker exactly where the generator regulator output used to go. (You should include a section of fusible link in that wire) You can run it directly to the battery or to the battery cable on the solenoid, but then your ammeter won't work correctly. I'd also run an equally stout wire from the grounding lug on the alternator case to wherever you have all your grounds run.

Ross, are you saying the circuit breakers on the instrument panel? And a fuse on a line going to a circuit breaker? The EZ wire kit runs everything through a fuse box, BTW.
My confusion comes from the Certified instructions saying to run two wires together into one position at the back of the alt. To add to that confusion, I requested help from EZ wire and received this:
"my alt power to the one connection and the bypass from the alternator to the big post of starter"
I'm sure the "my" is a typo, but is it "try" and just what is the "bypass". I knew going in my confidence level was low, but that didn't help at all.

I think they may be saying to jumper one of the two lugs on the back of the alternator, that's the cheapo way to make a 3-wire into a 1-wire. I'm surprised they would do that on a kit described as a 1-wire. See below

Without knowing how EZ Wire says to do things, I'd say to run the alternator output to the battery with a fusible link, and run power from the solenoid (battery hot) to the new fusebox.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...g-jpg.1302755/

It's worth a try. At this point, the worst I can do is short the battery and start a fire! :)

Most true 1-wires don't even have those two terminals. The one I got from Certified doesn't. Worth asking them why yours has them.

Mine had a cover over the terminals. I did not remove the cover or install the jumper. Just one wire to the starter solenoid.

Yes, just looked to make sure. Mine is the same. One plug/terminal. I don't understand the comment, from EZ wire. It must be either I didn't get my point across or they misunderstood.
Smallello, your wire runs from the solenoid to the alt? Then from the solenoid to the ignition switch? Through the Hall effect loop, I assume?

Okay now I'm curious , to what hall effect loop do you refer

He means the ammeter loop

Same here. My "one wire" from Certified only has the one connection.

It runs from the alternator to the battery side of the solenoid. The same side the battery connects to.