HELP!! 2000 E150 Both Front Calipers Stuck
 

Help!

To make long story short. Driver side front caliper stuck. Van has 250K miles. So I replaced front calipers, rotors, brake hoses. Bled the system. Brake pedal sank to the floor afterward. Pedal had to travel about 5 inches before engaging the booster push rod.

I adjusted the rear brakes and then bled the system again. Pedal came back up but there is still about 3 inches between pedal and booster push rod.

I started the van up and took it for a test drive. All brakes felt fine for about 1 mile and then both front calipers dragged. If I did not press the gas pedal, it did not move even when it is in "Drive". I took it home and both front brakes smelled burnt. Front wheel lock bolts were hot to touch. Rear wheel nuts were cold.

Is the wheel cylinder shot, booster is shot or is it something else?

This is my work van and I appreciate any advice to get it back on the road ASAP.

Thanks.

Kin

How do you believe there's a gap between the pedal and booster rod?

I've read this and your other thread and it appears to be a simple issue of improperly bled lines.

1- brake pedal travel was normal before
2- you replace brake hoses and other parts
3- brake pedal travel is excessive afterward.

Rear brakes would not need adjusted if they were working properly before.


How much experience do you have bleeding brakes? Done it a few times? First or second time now? Dozens of succesful times?

How do you believe there's a gap between the pedal and booster rod?

Thanks for the reply.

I have done brakes on all my vehicles and bled them every 2-3 years.

As for the pedal, it id not have any space before the calipers stuck. When I press the pedal now, it travels down a few inches before you can feel it engages the rod. When I release the pedal, it bounce back with a "thud" noise. That is why I suspect either the booster diaphragm malfunctioned causing it to stick or the MC malfunctioned.


Kin

Here is something that may not apply but thought i would throw it out there..

Depending on your wheels the rotor may not hit them but cold cause other problems..

I've never heard of improper bleeding causing lock-up.

Bench bled MC, re-bled system. Still stuck. Then I noticed when I started the van, booster rod got pull into the cylinder.

Replaced booster. Bled the system. Brake goes back to normal.

This story is weird. I'm about to go look under the dash of my van for the setup on that rod.

Checked the bad booster. PO had a leaky MC, MC was replaced by PO but the brake fluid leaked into the booster and caused damage.