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Well crap. So I assume the Borg Warner transfer cases do have a plug in, is this plug in on my 2wd harness?
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Originally Posted by Ron94150
(Post 16057077)
Well crap. So I assume the Borg Warner transfer cases do have a plug in, is this plug in on my 2wd harness?
It if mates up the trans you might have what you need for a test in what you have there, put the TC in low range bolt it up then take it for a little ride, you could do that with a rear drive shaft only. If you find the shift points in low range are acceptable? workout everything else knowing that, if not swap it out for a 1356. Your 2 wheel harness, it is unlikely it will already have those TC range circuits from the factory you'd have to add them. |
I should have just stuck with my original plan and put a manual transmission in it.
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Originally Posted by danr1
(Post 16057055)
Changed gearing in the 94? no effect on shift points as it reads ground speed off ring gear, changing tire size effects ground speed reading, not a gearing change.
Re-gearing WILL change the shift points when you're not WOT. The vehicle will shift at the same ground speed, but the engine speed will be higher. WOT will still shift at the programmed RPM.
Originally Posted by Ron94150
(Post 16057262)
I should have just stuck with my original plan and put a manual transmission in it.
1. The NP205's higher low-range ratio will mean the truck will shift at a 25% lower RPM than it would in low-range with the BW transfercase. So instead of shifting into 2nd at 2500 RPM, it'll do it at 1900 RPM. Not a huge deal, IMO. 2. If you need low range, chances are you're in a situation where you won't even leave 1st gear anyways, and you'll have the truck locked into manual 1st. 3. Is any vehicle particularly smooth in low-range? Does it matter if its a little odd crawling around in low-range? I don't think so. Just hook up the NP205's low-range indicator switch to the low-range input on the computer. You may have to get a 4x4 computer, but I'm not sure if Ford differentiated that much between them. I'd imagine they use the same computer in 2wd and 4wd trucks, but you never know. |
Ok guys, I've decided I've got enough to worry about besides trying to make this 205 work with the front output clearance issues. I will just save it for a off road rig later. What will be my easiest options to look for. Bw1356? Bw4406? Bw4407? Others? Definitely want a manual shift transfer case, just want something that will go in with the e4od in my 94 with no troubles and is a good unit.
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Are you planning on towing that camper after you lift the truck?
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No. We a have a seasonal spot now.
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Bw1345 or 1356 will be the best options, both are strong but the 1356 is considered superior. Make note of whether your truck has a fixed or slip yoke before buying one.
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Originally Posted by PlumCrazy7
Bw1345 or 1356 will be the best options, both are strong but the 1356 is considered superior. Make note of whether your truck has a fixed or slip yoke before buying one.
I've found a bw1356 manual shift from a f150. It has the shifter, but it's bolted to an m5od. Will the shifter be the same as a e4od? |
I know you already have the 205, but even regearing the diffs won't have as great of an impact on final gearing as going with a 1356. And the 300 i6,even as good as it is will need all the gear it can get with 37s. I am good friends with someone whom has a full blown mud truck (see mega truck) and he swapped out his 205 for a 1356 because his 540 big block liked the extra gearing it gave. I have a drawn up chart somewhere that has diff ratios and low range ratios combined to give final low ratio somewhere I'll find it and post it up.
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...7a451352e9.jpg
OK this was for a friend that was doing a GM truck, but same ratios apply. 205=205 208=1356. As you see you would have to go to a 5.88 gear to get as much final reduction as a 4.10 with a 1356. So if you did have to highway drive it there would still be some manners. |
Thanks mudsport, I've come to the conclusion I will be buying a bw1345 or 1356. I also finally found an old thread that answers my last question. The shifter is different for an e4od. The search is on. I have a feeling the shifter will be more difficult to find than the case.
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This is my favorite gear ratio calculator.
Gear Ratio Calculator I use this a lot as it has the transmission and transfercase ratios built in. |
Originally Posted by Ron94150
(Post 16035575)
It may be a little premature, but I wanted a place to post my questions related to the build and I've got a pretty good collection of parts started. This is going to be a father-son project, and I expect to drive it a few years (not my daily) and "pass it on" to my son.
Attachment 136962 This is the truck in its current state. It is a plain 1994 f150 xl 2wd 4.9 auto. The truck has a/c, tilt, and cruise. That's about all the options I'm interested in. Some things I've already done to the truck include- Trans cooler 3:73 gear Brake controller Water pump Thermostat Fan clutch Belt Factory tach instrument panel swap Plans for the truck are a 4x4 conversion with a solid axle. @8" lift up front(10" on a 2wd) and 6" in the rear. 4:88 gear with a ls rear end. 15x10 black steel wheels and 37x13.50 super swamper m-16s. Black off road bumpers, billet grill, smoked head/tail lights. The larger swing mirrors in black. Steel cowl hood and black the tool box and bed caps. Also a redhead steering gear box. Inside will see the seat recovered, a twin stick transfer case, and a good sounding stereo. Attachment 136967Attachment 136966Attachment 136965 This is the 79 chassis I picked up for $300. Some of the things I still need to purchase are, f350 drag link, jbc adjustable trac bar and mount, 6" lift coils, axle rebuild kit, gears, shocks, jb customs twin stick kit, np 205 rebuild kit, and other stuff for sure. Attachment 136968Attachment 136969Attachment 136970Attachment 136971Attachment 136972 This what I picked up today. It's a 4wd e4od out of a wrecked 95 Eddie Bauer. First thing I noticed when I walked up was how clean and dry it was. I pulled the torque converter off and the front of pump was spotless. Then I saw the date on the converter. I figured the truck was wrecked for a while judging from the dust/dirt on the truck. I bet this transmission has less than 5k on it. The guy saw me looking at the date and said if he had known that, he would have priced it higher. I also got the crossmember, skid plate, front driveshaft, cut up rear drive shaft(bent in wreck) and leaf springs. I gave 400 for all this. I think I did good. My next purchase will be the transfer case rebuild kit and the twin stick kit so I can get the transmission in. I also plan on pulling the motor and resealing everything along with a cloydes adjustable timing gear and maybe some very minor head work. The cat and smog pump will be deleted and a mellow exhaust installed. First question, that '79 frame, is the track bar attached to the lower part of the driver's side shock mount? Can you please snap a closer pic of that and post? I got the front sub section of a '78 bronco and it looks like they had a James Duff after market type track bar mount. Second question, how was the camper towing with your 4.9 and the 3.73 gears? I am looking at doing my rear in the smae and I have a 6450lb camper i will be towing. I also have a manual versus your auto trans. Thanks! Looking forward to see how this rig turns out. |
Originally Posted by vochy
(Post 16038407)
looks like your off to a good start. i am in the process of a simlar build on an 88' F150.
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