Changing engine oil cooler
 

I have a pin holes leak in the elbow that comes out of the engine oil cooler just above the oil pan that is closest to the universal joint on the front driveshaft. It looks like it was crushed by something and has pin holes leak spraying on the universal joint. I ordered a new cooler from Ford and the o-rings.

Do I need to drop the oil to replace this or is the cooler above the oil level? I just changed oil and like to not replace it if not necessary.

Any other advice?

Thanks
Chris

This is the procedure from the 2014 Ford Service DVD

Removal

Drain the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03B .

Remove the oil cooler inlet hose.

Disconnect the oil cooler outlet hose at the lower radiator hose outlet. Disconnect the coolant hose retainers from the upper oil pan.

NOTICE: In the event of catastrophic engine failure, always install a new oil cooler assembly. Foreign material cannot be removed from the oil cooler and engine damage may occur.

NOTE: On late build vehicles, the internal nut is no longer on the oil cooler and the lower oil pan does not have to be removed.

Remove the 7 bolts for the oil cooler assembly.

For late build vehicles, remove the oil cooler.

Remove and discard the gaskets.

Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

If necessary, remove the lower oil pan. For additional information, refer to Oil Pan — Lower in this section.

NOTICE: Failure to remove the nut from the oil cooler may result in damage to the oil cooler.

NOTE: The nut is located inside the upper oil pan.

If equipped, remove the oil cooler nut and oil cooler.

Remove and discard the gaskets.

Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

If necessary, remove the oil cooler outlet hose from the oil cooler.

Installation

If necessary, install the oil cooler outlet hose onto the oil cooler.

NOTICE: In the event of catastrophic engine failure, always install a new oil cooler assembly. Foreign material cannot be removed from the oil cooler and engine damage may occur.

Using new gaskets, install the oil cooler assembly and 7 bolts.

Tighten finger-tight.

NOTICE: Failure to tighten the oil cooler nut first may result in oil cooler damage or leaks.

If equipped, install the oil cooler nut.

Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).

Tighten the 7 oil cooler bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown.

Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

If necessary, install the lower oil pan. For additional information, refer to Oil Pan —
Lower in this section.

NOTE: Remove the plugs or caps from the openings.

Connect the oil cooler outlet hose at the lower radiator hose outlet. Connect the coolant hose retainers to the upper oil pan.

NOTE: Remove the plugs or caps from the openings.

Install the oil cooler inlet hose.

NOTICE: Evaluate the cooling system condition before filling the engine cooling system. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the engine.

Evaluate the cooling system condition. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Condition Evaluation in Section 303-03B .

Thanks Larry. That was exactly what I was looking for.

So my guess is you will have to follow the second procedure as you will have the nut inside the pan.


Also what is the actual sequence for the 7 bolts?

Thanks for providing that info. I knew there was a nut inside the pan; did not know on later build engines that was done away with.

I always wondered why Ford would make this service procedure that much harder for no real reason.

I believe when they changed to the metal pan the internal nut was deleted.

Good point - the timing is about right.

Two questions - why did they use a plastic pan in the first place, and then once they did, why did they revert back to stamped steel?

If I had to guess, it would be because of all the Ford stamped oil pans which rotted out over the years...but the plastic ended up not being as durable against leaks or damage...

The one issue I have seen numerous times concerning the composite pan was the drain plug eventually leaking and the pan seeping around the lip.

I have the replacement cooler and it doesn't have the stud on it. I haven't pulled the old one to see if it has the stud. I Ford dealer looked the part up via my VIN number, so I'm assume it's correct. Any chance that the cooler on the truck has the stud, but when I replace it, I won't need to use the nut or do I have the wrong cooler?

I have the composite pan.

Just to follow up on my question above about the replacement cooler not having the stud on it. I talked to the dealer and there is a note for the replacement cooler that states the replacement cooler will not have the stud. The hole for the stud in the upper oil pan is sealed with the body of the cooler along with the seal. So good news for us 2011 models is if we have to change it again, we won't have to drop the lower oil pan.

I did this yesterday. I was able to pinch off the coolant lines, so I didn't need to drain the coolant. Took about 3 hrs. A lift would make this much easier. Laying on your back/side with your arms up working takes its toll. About a quart of oil came out of the cooler/upper oil pan when it comes free from the housing. So be ready for that.