RUST 2004 F250 Ext cab Xlt ?
 

Original owner in Ct 93,000 miles,recently replaced passenger Manifold w/studs and gasket 2nd time in 2 years 9 months also third port on head had slight rust some epoxy and it's been good for four months.Ever since then been worried about RUST ! I know I can't stop it but I'd like to slow it down stop the bleeding !Body is showing signs,bed is shot still looks ok but under cross members and starting at wheel wells . I may be over reacting but since rust on head been looking more so at frame etc , it seems frame is about 1/4 inch thick it has scaly rust on it.In Vermont where I travel a lot they do under carriage oil treatment new oil with two chemicals added.Its $125.00 even has a blackened color , doors are starting,tailgate at bottom seem is to.A new truck is out of site ! Very small areas on top of doors and other areas what's the best way to stop bleeding my brother is in body business I have tried Rust Bullett seems Excellent, what to do to stop bleeding and just prolong RUST ? Thanks in advance !

While installing a gooseneck hitch on my 2015...let me say that again ON MY 2015!!!! I noticed the bed supports were rusting already. Even better than that, the drivers side running board was replaced because the chrome was rusting through...ON THE LOT! Rust is a mighty foe that is rarely defeated. Any rust prevention method is just slowing the inevitable.

Come on guys ?TTT :oval:-huh

Rust is like cancer. better to prevent it than try to treat it.
I HIGHLY recommend Krown.
My "13" has absolutely NO rust anywhere. The thing is, you must have the treatment when your ride is new. I've seen rust starting on two year old super dutys up here in New England all the time. When you get the new truck get
some rust fix and hit everything you see that has started rusting, like the driveshafts front suspension and steering components etc. Next get the Krown service if you can, but if you can't, spray the crap out of it with
Fluid film.
Duplicolor Rust Fix, Rust Converter, Black, 10.25 oz. Aerosol RF129: Advance Auto Parts
https://www.krown.com/
Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

I just had a local guy "fluid film" my truck for 50$. He did it using a wagner power painter. Sure I could have got it myself and saved some money but he really covered the crap out of everything, plus its real nasty stuff he was wearing a full plastic suit when he did it. looks great

I will be pulling my bed within the next week or two on my 2001 to address rust. Keep an eye on my build thread if you would like, as I will be documenting the process there.

CT winters are rough on our trucks. Once rust gets started, rustproofing treatment works poorly.

Check out a rusted spot and pull off a rust flake, Chances are that there is moisture or wetness under that rust flake. This is why rust progresses rapidly once it starts.

The best way to do this is to remove the bed, de-rust the frame, replace the bed support rails and apply decent rust-preventive paint. Done professionally this is a 5K repair. Doing it yourself (with some helpers to remove the bed) puts the cost more like 1K.

Once this is done, you have a decent looking truck that will make it through many more CT winters.

Lou Braun

The biggest problem is the wonderful materials they put on the roads now-a-days to keep the roads from freezing. If you don't remove this residue from the under side of your vehicle at the end of the winter every time it gets wet it will continue to due cause corrosion. You need to either remove it or neutralize it. There are products out there that will do this for you.

Eastwood makes a rust incapsulater that is supposed to be better than Por 15. I'm doing my whole frame in the spring and they also have a special long tube for spraying inside the frame and or bed rail rust prevetner or incapsulater and also a rubberized rust incapsulater. I bought a new bed and I'm going to use Raptor bed liner on the bottom of the bed, inner bed sides after I remove the factory foam and also the bed rails and then rust preventer inside the bed support rails and then fluid film everything when my build is done.

I feel your pain. Here is what I am doing to mine right now. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-salvage.html

Try some of this to remove rust it does wonders

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...844797a738.jpg

Heres a before and after on a turbo I did a few weeks back

Before
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...56b62bd937.jpg

After

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6fe72b1528.jpg

Well if you're willing to do some work get under there first and clean it up real good. Drill some holes in areas that trap sand and moisture. Then take it to the shop and have them oil it.
I did mine a couple weeks ago used about a gallon of bar and chain oil.

:oval TTT , Choice I have is get under there ( or pull bed,it's bad anyway ) again looks ok,knock off the rust with air tools clean it up and coat it with either rust bullet or something similar ! Second choice,I imagine wash it then get it oiled ,like a place in Vermont called Carrera's ! The problem I see is once I oil it,never has been, then I won't be able to easily coat it if I coat it with rust bullet etc or similar , then I can still oil it to protect finish from then forward ! That frame is about 1/4 inch thick so it probably is not going anywhere BUT it sure feels to me that something should be done ? What do all you expert's say :-huh I also was thinking a 1500 Sierra Gmc looks like you can get one for $10,000 off of list just don't know if I be happy going to a smaller truck (nice bells and whistles) with a SMALL waxed frame ! PLUS money is tight ? ? ?How long should it take to pull the bed ? What to do ? Thanks for your input in advance !