Where do you live at? It wouldnt be hard to ship them, but wouldnt be cheap to cross countries. There has to be a distributor somewhere near you.

What is the purple stuff on your pad backs? If you put the ceramic lubeback there, it's not where that goes. Putting stuff on the back of your pads is for quietening pad chatter. I use this stuff on the back of my pads and never get squeal or rattle: You put that on the back, it's like a rubber glue or something that helps keep the pad against the caliper and provides some vibration reduction. It shouldn't hurt anything, but won't do you any good.

I made this mistake too first time I used it. Next pad change, clean the contact points with a rag and brake cleaner and use the CRC.

I did it because the guy did in the guide I was reading. I figured it may help keep my piston seal in tact longer and prevent it from rusting. He mentioned he did it to reduce noise.

It's a grease, it's made for lubrication. It does reduce noise by reducing friction on the pad tabs against the hardware and the pins. It won't hurt anything on the back of the pads. It may even reduce some rattle in the pad to caliper bracket, but it's not what it's designed for. Either way it will be fine. As long as you put a light coat on the pins and hardware, you're good. It's best stuff I've used on brakes.

I cleaned the grease off the pins and cleaned the holes. I didn't think the stuff they used would be as good. I'm ready to roll again but gonna finish up everything else before I put the wheels back on. I'm getting anxious!

I took my tie rods off today and stabilizer to replace them and was going to go ahead and get the trac bar off while I had some extra space. My 3/4" drive torque wrench has a head to big to fit between my socket and the pitman plate. I know my impact driver wont fit in there. I can get my 3/8" torque wrench in there with an adapter on it, but my cheater bar is not fat enough to go around the handle of it. Do you have an technique, tips, or tool recommendations for removing the trac bar?

Why are you using a torque wrench to get it off? Just use a 1/2" breaker bar and if you still can't get it with a cheater bar, lots of penetrating oil and a floor jack and/or a little heat.

Heat the nut and use an impact wrench.

Cype2, I'm not sure if this has already been mentioned upthread or not, but since you are removing both your Track Bar and your Drag Link, make sure that these two diagonal bars are parallel to each other at static ride height with the wheels pointed straight.

The drag link may have a little bend in it to clear the passenger side leaf spring, so the drag link's effective diagonal can be determined by an imaginary straight line drawn directly between it's upper and lower attachment points... which should more or less be parallel to the diagonal of the track bar. If they are not parallel to each other, due to some type of lift or leveling kit or aftermarket alteration, then the extent of their difference in angles can contribute to death wobble.

I was going to use the 3/4" torque because it was 4 ft long without a cheater on it. Before I got your message I tried at ratchet with a cheater and that didn't go well for the poor little ratchet. I ended up buying a 17" breaker bar and putting my floor jack handle on it and that got it off. No heat or penetrating oil needed. Its raining today so I cant do much. I will get back to taking off the other side tomorrow. I plan on using the ball joint press I rented to put my trac bar bushings and sway bar bushing in.

I dont think the truck is lifted. It may have a leveling kit though. For our trucks that would be a leaf spring or blocks right? Any way to know for sure if I have the original leaf springs? I dont think there are blocks on it.

if You pull on a torque wrench beyond the click,then You should have the wrench checked for calibration.

You can try cross referencing the Ford part number stamped/engraved into the underside of the bottom leaf of your leaf springs, with the spring code on your Federal Certification tag in your door jamb, to see if there is correlation. You might need to find the chart that interprets the spring part number with a spring rating, and another chart that interprets axle spring code with a spring rating, to see if the ratings match.

These types of charts have been posted and reposted all over this website over the years, a so hopefully a search will reveal them in a short amount of time.

On the stamped/engraved spring part number... you are interested more in the suffix of the part number, typically two letters, than you are in the prefix of the part number. The basic (middle) portion of the part number will always be the same regardless (5310), so that won't tell you much other than "front springs". The last two letters following the 5310, usually after a hyphen, will be the most important part of that part number.

Just because those last two characters in the part number happen to be letters in the alphabet, those specific letters are not to be interpreted as "B" code or "X" code or "W" code springs, even if one or more of the letters happens to be B or X or W. Instead, the last two letters need to be considered as a pair, and together this pair determines the specific revision of front springs that you have. You will need to cross reference that part number with the "code" number short hand for spring ratings.

Once you do the same for your cert label, you can extrapolate if the springs you have match what the truck was originally issued with.

OHHH wait a sec, another way just occurred to me that I never usually think about because my truck is just two months older than when Ford started their Historical Vehicle Bill of Materials data base. (HVBOM for short).

If you go to your local Ford parts counter with your VIN, they can likely run a HVBOM for your front springs, and give you the engineering number for the springs your truck left the factory with. See if that number matches what is stamped under your springs. Much easier, because you have a 2002. My 2000 was built in November 99, just prior to Ford's establishment of this database.

I got the trac bar off finally. Used the impact on the lower end and the 17" breaker bar with a cheater bar on the top. 1 3/16" socket. I was able to press one end out with the impact wrench and ball joint press. The other end I was not so lucky and am worried im doing more damage than good. I'm going to take it to Napa tomorrow and ask them to press it out for me. If they are successful I'll attempt to get them to press in the new bushings. If they fail getting it out I may have to buy an aftermarket trac bar. Hopefully thats not the case. Hopefully the sway bars wont be as bad to do.

cpye2: FYI, I was able to press the bushing out with socket smaller than the track bar bushing hole on one side and a socket larger than the bushing on the other side, in a bench vice. Lube it up with dishwashing soap or better yet Turtle Wax Superprotectant and it will come out in a bench vice (or better yet a press).