So your death wobble was from broken parts and loose bolts? Nice and tight now I bet. Lol

Columbia, South Carolina. I was sweating tonight while I was working on the truck.

I had to buy new retaining clip removers/ pliers today get the clip off the wheel hub. The kobalt ones from Lowe's suck. The ones at the Auto Parts store were 2 times as much but way better design and more tip for different style of clips. I took the nut off the tie rod on the hub and was going to remove it but had to go get a pickle fork. Couldnt get my puller on good without it. Will be glad when I get this side done. Will be nice to know what im doing when I do the other side and have all the tools in place. I ordered axle seals, dust covers, and "Special tool" for the axle seals today.

I don't use a special tool for those seals. I cut a hole big enough for the stub end to fit through a hardwood scrap piece and built a wood "U" truss taller that the stub end and drove it on. Much cheaper. 4 nails and 4 pieces of wood.

I dont blame you. I hate buying specialty tools and tools at store price, but I am in a bind over here. The tools and parts I didn't need immediately I bought online. Is there an easy way to tell if the rotor is warped once its off? Can I swap the the stock rotors, left and right?

I haven't tried it yet (but I do have a tie rod to install) but I have it on good authority that if you use an air hammer (cheap at Harbor Freight) with a blunt (cut off?) chisel bit, and use it on the side of the tie rod ball joint while putting some sort of pressure (pickle fork, tie rod separator) on the gap in the tie rod joint, that it will separate easily.

No personal experience, yet, just passing on what I have been told...

Don't know of a way to check the rotors once off unless you have a brake lathe. As for swapping them from side to side, never heard of that, or I guess you're talking about rotating them like tires, I wouldn't do it.

If you have any lathe with enough swing, you can use a 3 or 4 jaw chuck and grab the inner lip (mating surface) and run a dial indicator on it.
If not, you can flip the rotor and install it backwards. Need a deep socket to tighten it up with the lug nuts. Use a dial indicator to check for warp. Use a marker on the non-pad contact surfaces to mark high and low.
Just a note, most of the time, unless it's a really cheap rotor, they don't "warp". Most of the time there is a pad impression left on the surface of the rotor.
This is how it happens: You brake hard and heat up the rotors and pads. You stop at a light and hold the brake down fairly hard because our trucks will creep if you don't. The pad delaminates a tiny fraction and/or leaves some components from the hard braking. When you pull away, it leaves the imprint in the form of a raised area. You feel surge in your brake pedals and some vibration. Since the imprinted area is similar in material to the pad, build up occurs at the imprint and it gets worse over time. If you catch it in time, you can go back through a breaking in procedure for your pads and sometimes it will work.
I give credit of this knowledge to the owner of Applied Rotor Technologies whom with I had several long conversations about this issue and his product.
Doing more research, I have found that sometimes a more aggressive pad will clean off the rotor, but this is also at the expense of rotor life. The more aggressive the pad, the shorter the rotor life (in terms of wear).

Don't rotate your rotors. There is some sort of metallurgical/engineering reason it increases the risk of damaging the rotor or having warping and develop stress fractures. I never got the dirty on that one, but a friend of mine who is an engineer for a defense contractor told me they learned this lesson on an expensive piece of gear.

I have a tie rod puller. It was less than $20 at the parts store and pickle fork. That was $10. Used them both today for removing the tie rod on the hub, but also used the pickle fork to remove the axle shaft. YES, I SAID I REMOVED THE AXLE SHAFT. That was by far the most difficult part of this journey so far. Someone has been in there before. They put the thrust washer in backwards and looks like they left the yellow o ring off of the hub. I will put it back together right. The axle did have a little wobble and a silver ring about the size of the axle seal came out before the axle seal. IDK if that was part of the seal or if someone jerry rigged something. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow for identification. Tomorrow I'm going to carry the final part to the Auto Parts store and see if their ball joint puller can pull out my joints. After that begin cleaning some of these parts and starting the other side. As I'm taking this apart, I'm starting to believe the death wobble most likely wouldn't come from this area unless you have a worn hub which is a very easy check (lifting the truck and wobbling the wheel) OR completely wrecked ball joints. I dont think its can be in the sway bars either after getting a better look at them. I do not know much about that trac bar, but I believe worn tie rods are a major factor in death wobble.

Both ball joints fall over with gravity, and the lower has in and out play on it. The axle seal was warped also. U joints are good though! Cleaning parts now and waiting on parts to come in so I can rebuild. Bout to check the caliper pins and piston. They look pretty bad from the eye test right now, but I havent extended the piston. So maybe its the outside looking rough.

Got a froze piston in the left side caliper. I went ahead and bought the brake kit from Jegs. No core charge, and free shipping. $305. Part # KC1905-36. I do have an extra set of auto lock o rings now, and an extra set of brake pads. I can keep the brake pads for later, but will never nead these o rings since I have Warn hubs. So after all this the only thing left to replace to completely rebuild my front end are sway bar, trac bar and leaf spring bushings, shocks, tie rod ends, and a new stabilizer.

See CPYE2... you successfully self diagnosed.

XRF have a good rep, but not so much the ceramic pads. Squeaking and accelerated rotor wear are the usual complaints. I'm running Hawk LTS but the Hawk Superduty is well liked, also EBC equivalents. OE Ford is good too. Personally I would never run parts house ceramics. Now with all that said, since the pads come with the rotors in that KC1905-36 kit you'd think they would have them well matched.

You can see lateral runout on the rotor with an elaborate rig like below. I put a brick on the wrench to hold it steady. I was "clocking" a new rotor around on the hub looking for where their cumulative runout was least. Not really needed but I had time, and eventually I found a sweet spot.

Does it have to be a Craftsman 15/16" wrench?:-X22

I will do that next brake job.

I took apart the right hand side to go ahead and clean parts and get it ready for replacement when the new stuff comes in. Like the left hand side, the thrust washer was in inside out and the O ring around the hub was missing. The back side of one of the manual hubs had come apart inside the hub, but I dont think it caused any wear. I believe I can put it back together and probably should have taken the other side apart like this one just for extra cleaning. Needle bearing was still greased and hub was tight. U joint was tight. Axle seal was WAY worse than the left hand side. My inner axle seal on this side is also leaking. I noticed the slow drip a few months ago and this confirms it was coming from the differential. Didn't get time to take a look at the caliper, but it is getting replaced at the same time with the other side. Next step is to press out the ball joints and press in the new ones.