55 F100 Tear Down Help..
 

Starting to dismantle the front end of my truck to pull the motor/trans, and could use help on two things....

First, and this exposes how little I know what I'm doing, can someone please tell me what the items labeled A, B, and C in the pictures below are... and maybe what they do? (I can probably google that one, once I know what they are).

Second, just took the hood off, and wondering how much of the front clip I can get off, while leaving the radiator in place (so I can start the truck and move it from one shop bay to another, or to another shop just up the street?

Thanks! The pics are below...

This is on the passenger inner fender
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1329271027.png

These are on the passenger firewall
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...229c07c2ab.png

A-alternator voltage regulator

B-horn relay

C- starter solenoid

A is the voltage regulator, but the round thing at the left of the regulator has me puzzled.
B is the horn relay
C is the starter solenoid

You should be able to take the entire front clip off and leave the radiator. I did it the hard way by taking each piece off, but you can take the entire clip off by removing a few bolts at the cab and the bolts to the radiator support. Others that have done that can give you more tips.

I would recommend a shop manual as well as this book on cd:
1948-56 Ford Truck Master Parts Catalog CD - HiPo Parts Garage
I love the master parts catalog just for the cool drawings, let alone the awesome info it gives you.

I have pictures and video of me driving around just a frame and engine in my build thread. Others have done similar, it's not too difficult and I have very little experience.

I'm not real strong on OEM 6V electrical parts, but A looks like voltage regulator, B Not sure, several possibilities (relay or circuit breaker?) C. starter solenoid.
The entire front clip on the 53-56 hangs on the radiator horseshoe, so it is the last part to come off and everything else can be removed without removing the radiator or mount. To run the engine you'll just need to reconnect any disconnected major engine electrical (and make sure to run a temporary ground to regulator etc.).

oh, I wasn't expecting 6v to come into play. There has been some form of 12v conversion done on the truck.... It's running a 292 out of a 63 F100, has a 12v battery and alternator. It does have the little gem pictured below on the driver side firewall.... the text (barely legible) says 12v to 6v reducer. I haven't figured out exactly what that is runs off of that yet, but figured everything in the original pictures was part of the 12v system... guess I'll have to figure that out for sure....

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5c43ac2466.jpg

I'll probably do it the hard way too. I want to get the inner fenders blasted and painted.... along with the undersides of the fenders, etc ... so I have to get all the pieces apart anyway.

Will look into the shop manual, etc

Thanks!

OK, the parts looked old enough i assumed they were original parts. Sorry. Conversion likely was done some time ago, or salvage parts were used? If you don't have one already I'd suggest calling Mid Fifty www.midfifty.com and ask them to send you one of their free catalogs. Almost better than the shop manual since they offer up hot rodding parts as well as stock. They carry about every part available for the 53-56, and their catalog has great exploded illustrations as well as additional otherwise hard to find useful information and hints. Plus you can't beat the price. It can be downloaded off their website, but it worth having a print copy close at hand when working on your truck.

Soak all the bolts and nuts you can find with a good quality penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or Pblaster (NOT WD40!) a couple times a day for 3 or 4 days before attempting to disassemble. Sometimes it makes more sense to tighten the bolts until they break if heavily corroded, you'll probably want to replace them anyhow. Note there is a front fender attaching bolt inside the small triangular opening in the rocker panel at the bottom of the firewall. I don't know for sure when it started, but by 56 at least Ford screwed a sheetmetal cover over the holes. It's also a place that collected dirt and debris kicked up by the tires so needs to be cleaned out and rust is often found in there. The bottom of the fenders also bolted to the front of the running boards.
Hint, take a lot of pix and put the parts and fasteners into ziplock bags and/or covered plastic containers and label everything. Put all related parts into 1 larger container, label and store. It may be a LOT longer than you think before you get back to them and knowing where the parts came from and having everything in one place will be much appreciated later.

That 12v to 6v reducer is most likely going to you gauges, but you will need to trace the wire to be sure.

AXracer is correct. Take pictures then take some more pictures. Label everything. Then take more pictures. They will come in handy. I put hang tags on parts that didn't fit into bags. Then take some more pictures and post them here so we can see. I currently have 2000 to 3000 pictures. It's still not enough. It's critical as you take things apart.

You really would be best off removing the front clip (inner fenders, outer fenders, valance, and grille) as a single unit. It will be much easier to disassemble the pieces when off the truck. Plan on cutting some or most of the bolts as only a few will respond to PB Blaster. Good luck as you start your advenure.

I cannot agree with this more. I really barely took 250 photos and it's way not enough. I've been lucky so far by finding other people who had taken photos of their trucks of the parts I needed to re-assemble. Others I just did what I felt was right.
I planned on re-assembly to be within a year but ended up being over 2 years and I have forgotten (most) things by then.

Enjoy and try not to rush. I know I did on things but I figure in 10 years or so when the children are out of the house I can do it again and have the time and $$ to do it better/right.

Thanks, DW! You said the magic words... easier. I did some searching to find some info on how to remove the whole front clip. Found some pictures of folks that had done it, but no instructions. Just examined mine, and took the picture below. Looks like these are the fasteners I need to remove. If anyone notices anything I've missed..... please let me know. Thanks.

A - 6 bolts (3 on each side) that attach the valance to the radiator stand.
B - 4 bolts (2 on each side) that attach the outer/inner fenders to the cab (will need to get wrench on nut in the top of the wheel well too)
C - 8 bolts (4 on each side) that attach inner fenders to steel strip welded to cab. Remove these from inside the back of the wheel well.
D - 8 bolts (4 on each side) attaching outer fender to cab, and 2 bolts (1 on each side) attaching fender to running board.

Question 1: Have I missed any fasteners that will prevent clip removal?
Question 2: See D... On each side the bottom bolt attaching the fender to the cab is way down on the cab corner. I can shine a light down in there and see it is held by a square nut. Do I need to get a wrench on that, or is that welded in place, and I just need to hope that I can get the bolt out without breaking weld or bolt? ... already sprayed with deep creep (has worked better for me than pbblaster)?

Thanks to all for your continued advice!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b91a047b37.png

Take the front clip off in one piece. you have rotted bolts you cant get to on the truck. After its off you can use cutoff wheel, reach them better with less chance of twisting sheet metal.

Thanks, I'm going to give that a try. Did it look (in my previous post) like I found all of the fasteners that I need to get off to make that happen?

There are also another 4 bolts (2 each side) that attach the air deflector panels (behind the grill) to the rad support that will need removed. Also the bolts on the fender to cab, the top one is a nut onto a stud on the fender and the bottom 3 are bolts.