Power Issue When First Driving
 

Greetings FTE,

One of the work trucks has a problem that I would like to diagnose and fix.

2001 SRW CC 4X4 (Ol Blue). For the last 6 months it has had an issue. When you start the truck up in the AM it runs very rough. It will clear up if you let it sit and idle for 20 mins. We are running Rotella T6 and have been since the first oil change after we bought it at 150,000. She has 324,000 now. As far as I know, stock injectors, stock HPOP. Have done the .50 Mod. If you attempt to drive it BEFORE it is warmed up and running smoothly, there is a noticeable lack of power. If you put you foot into it, the truck will run rough for a few seconds and then.......it feels like an obstruction has been removed from the exhaust or the fuel line. Engine becomes smooth and power is back. Much worse in the winter. In my mind I see it being a oil pressure/fuel problem. Have changed the fuel filter twice in the last 6 months. Oil changes around 9-10K. I added some Arcoil product to help with Stiction on the injectors. It made a noticeable difference on start up shaking of the engine. We do have an Auto Enginuity. What should I look for if it is an oil pressure problem? I have also thought that the injectors could just be tired. I do have a T500 HPOP and new IPR on the shelf. Thoughts?

Sounds to me like your EBPV is sticking shut. My friend had a 2000 that burned up #7 cyl because of that. Worth looking into since after it warms up it runs fine.

Ahhhh....that damn EBPV. The tube is ALWAYS full. Will check it out!

To begin with, you've already identified some stiction issues with the Injectors. Hopefully that will improve in time.

Are you using a Fuel Additive to help diminish or eliminate stiction?

As a baseline, I would record the following parameters when first started and then again at 180*F.

Glow Plug % - 99% for up to 120 Seconds - Dependent upon ambient temperature. No need to record when at OT.

EBP: 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 psi - This will give a general idea of the health of the sensor. This is KOEO. If there is little variation you're Tube may be blocked or the sensor may be bad.

V-PWR 10.5 VDC Minimum. (The CMP may fall out of the PCM circuit if vehicle voltage falls below 10.5v). Good Batteries are necessary for proper performance when cold especially.

ICP 500 PSI or 3.4 MPAM Minimum the ICP should steadily climb during cranking. This indicates a healthy HPOP depending upon how high it climbs. You can also remove Fuse #30 (#) Amp) and crank for 10 seconds and witness the highest pressure to determine the general health on its top end.

ICPv (KOEO) Spec 0.20v - 0.30v

FUEL PW: 1 MS - 6 MS (<1 / >6 IDM Suspect)

DC% - Cranking NTE 20% / 65% is closed. (IPR Suspect)

RPM - Low RPM could be an indication of starting / charging system problems ** You want to see approx. 650 - 750 during warm up / higher during colder climates i.e.: < 50*F

ICP - A minimum of 500 PSI (3.4 mPa) is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the reservoir, system leakage, injector O-Rings, or faulty IPR could cause pressure loss.

Tom

Only additive that we have been using is the Power Service white or silver depending on the temps. I cannot say if the guys add it every time. So we could be lacking in the application. LOL. Will set up the AE when I get a minute and check it out. Thanks Thomas!

FIPW will read 0.6 KOEO, and while cranking until ICP reaches 500 PSI. It will also read 0.6 any time the engine is in compression (coasting with the transmission pushing the engine). So don't freak out when you see less than 1 on FIPW under those conditions.

If your FIPW reads something screwy like 0.3 while it's running, set the "Scale Value" on the PID to 10.

Sounds to me like a buzz test with the engine as cold as possible is in order. Make note of any that sound muted rather than crisp. The injectors in a 7.3 have poppet valves on the hydraulic side of things. As the poppet valves wear, the armature plate to poppet body clearance decreases. When the clearance gets to a point where it is less than about 0.0015" the trapped oil causes suction. That and the increased distance between the solenoid and armature plate causes the poppet valve to not open, and the injector to not inject fuel. As the trapped oil warms and thins, it becomes easier to break the suction it causes, and the injector begins to operate. That's why it all of a sudden smooths out and normal power returns.

If you wanted to, you could pull the injector solenoids and spacers off and check clearances with feeler gauges. A new injector starts out with about 0.004" clearance, and it's usually right around 0.0015" when the symptoms of wear start to show as a cold misfire that clears up as the engine warms.

This sounds a lot like my question.
99 350 PSD 2WD SRW Crew Cab Short Box 113k original owner all maintenance done
I've had an intermittent power issue on, or near, start up.
1st time I noticed it the weather was cold (for Seattle) low 20's & truck had sat for 2 weeks. Hard to start, warmed up & ran fine. A few months later another cold snap & same result - I thought I had some bad fuel.
It then happened in warmer weather, but still very intermittent and also not on startup - but a short time after.
It has now gotten more common & when it happens is very consistent. Starts right up & after a moment I back out (90' uphill). Our street joins a very busy road so I may pull right onto the main road, or it may take 5 minutes. I do not have any trouble pulling out - but .1 mile later it may start to run rough, spit, kick, buck & a few times has died - but that is rare. The 1st time it happened there it did die & I thought I had a fuel problem and was grumbling about how hard it is supposed to be to restart a diesel that went dry (in ~30 years of diesel I've never done that). While on the phone arranging a drag home/hooking up a tow strap, I decided to try it and it started right up & took off.
If this is going to happen it happens within feet of the same spot every time. Once in a while it will run rough, smooth out, & then run rough again within a short time.
From turning onto the main road to the spot it runs poorly it is slightly uphill and the spot it starts to misbehave is when I back off the pedal a bit. I am not normally deep into the pedal getting going, but an holding it steady until the road flattens (there is also a traffic light there which can be "fun").
Once it straightens out it will take off like nobody's business, smooth & strong.
The rest of the day there is no issue whether the weather is hot or cold, I drive 2 miles & shut it down until the end of the day or drive all day.
I have had it checked for codes at AutoZone & Ford - none show up.
I'm thinking a sensor that cuts back fuel for 10-30 seconds & then says "OK go".
Any ideas?
Thanks!