HPOP issue?
 

I have a 2004 6.0L that has stalled a few times over the course of a thousand miles. Each time the truck would restart and run normally. The final time resulted in it being towed home until I could get an appointment at the dealership. No dash lights ever came on and really there was no sign of a problem. I found that the truck was about two gallons of oil low. I check oil level and quality before every trip, and I check for leaks at every stop. I've always been really paranoid about my truck breaking down on me so I am very thorough about inspecting everything and performing all routine maintenance. I never noticed a leak. Believing the problem to be low oil I filled it up and tried starting it over. It would still just idle at low RPM and die. During one restart a lower engine knock developed. I left it alone until Ford could look at it. Their test came back with codes for the ICP and IPR (probably from so many failed starts), HPOP putting out only 360psi of 530psi needed and of course fixing the knock. The price tag was $3,200 in labor alone so I decided to save that and do it myself with the guidance of two family mechanics, one who works on other international motors. The HPOP seemed to look perfectly okay and I should have replaced it anyways, but I did not. I thought the problem lay with the bearings. I did put in a new ICP and IPR. The bearing that caused the knock had spun and warped, but did not cause any scarring to the crank shaft. The micrometer indicated everything was okay and spacing was okay too when all new rod bearings were put on with Molly based grease at the proper torques. The oil I drained also contained no metal shavings either. During start up the engine would turn very slowly. I expected this to be because of the new bearings. I would like to have replaced main bearings, but I was not able to do so. I towed it back to the dealer in hopes they could get it running quickly. They could not get it started and the engine would not turn fast enough to even run a test. They figured the started burned out so they put on a new one. Same thing. So now they are telling me three things. 1) the rod bearings COULD be over torqued requiring reassembly. 2) there is an internal issue and also would require a engine tear down. 3) the motor is just no good and needs replacing. I can't believe it would be #3, but I also don't want to spend roughly $4,000 for them to come to that conclusion if it still doesn't run. Three of their techs have expressed interest in buying it as is.
Could a bad HPOP be the problem?
I'm trying to decide if I want to poor even more money in to the truck because its worth keeping, or if I am better off selling it for what I can get for it. I hate to let it go for nothing. I have brand new tires on it, steel bumpers and running boards, a nice headache rack and toolbox and as of only a year ago new fuel pump, FICM, all new injectors and studs and glow plugs. Before that I had Bullet Proof EGR cooler, oil cooler and head gasket put in as well as the Bulldawg coolant filter. Because of all that investment I just don't know what the best option is. Honestly, I no longer have the need for a diesel, but it is paid for and I could just keep it garaged. Any input is valuable. Thank you.

Stop chech the a/c compressor it could be seizing
Start with belt off

I'd fix it. Sounds like a nice truck and it's value now vs running is a big enough difference to warrant some expense to at least figure out the issue whether you decide to keep or sell it. It didn't run low on oil for very long because oil is required to fire the injectors. Did you figure out where the oil went?

I agree with Benny on cranking with the belt off. Sound hokey but it can make the difference between starting or not, we've seen that one before. What kind of rpm's s it making during cranking?

I'd drop Back to basics and verify low side oil pressure with a gauge hooked up where the factory sensor goes. The later style hoop is a reliable piece but they do fail. Did you get an icp sensor reading during attempted cranking?

This same thing happened to me... check the A/C compressor. I turned the heater control to off and it started, drove straight to Advance Auto... clutch was smoking.

I never did find out where the oil had gone. After the knock began while the truck stopped running there was a slow leak around oil pan. I had seen evidence over the last year since replacing the injectors that a little bit would seep out the lower back corner of the driver side valve cover. That is why I put in new gaskets. Since replacing the ICP I have not gotten the vehicle to crank fast enough to even get the computer to read anything. It' sitting at the dealer currently. I can see about having them try starting it with the belt off or I can do that if I bring it home. After reinstalling the motor and trying to start it I thought about the CAM sensor not being seated and I was right. When I got it to clip in I expected the motor to start. I'll try your suggestions and keep you posted. Thanks.

3 techs want to buy it

To me that says get that truck out of there RUN LIKE HELL

That's a dealer to avoid and should make a do not use list

Did the oil go to coolant

Might have to wake up gauge what you use to read it

You have to get a base reading on some sensor before crank anyways

I second Blade's opinion. If the technicians at the dealership have offered to buy it as is, I don't believe they can be trusted to give you an impartial diagnosis of your problems. I wouldn't put it past a lot of dealerships out there to make the truck sound so problematic that you can't wait to get rid of it, and then one of them ends up with a vehicle worth twice what they paid because the work it actually needs is far less than what they told you it does.

Not saying all dealerships or techs at dealerships would conduct themselves like this, but I've met plenty who would.

Case in point... BMW offered my sister-in-law $2k for her car after telling her it needed a $3k fix. I fixed it in under an hour for under $2.00, it was an o-ring on the radiator. They told her it needs a radiator, water pump and hoses AND maybe timing stuff.


RUN!!!