Truck lost power then died. No codes
 

I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.

What did you use to pull codes with? Most code readers will not pull codes from our trucks. It sure sounds like a UVCH problem. Do some searches on that...generally easy to repair, if it turns out to be the case. When mine went wonky, it threw a code and it took me an hour or so to fix it.

If I'm reading this correctly, you changed the pump following the incident.

Often, the filters in the mixing chamber of the sending unit become clogged with contaminates thereby restricting it's flow.

Some here suggest removing the pick-up line from the pump and blow air back through it into the tank to dislodge any contaminates and see if it improves. If it does, you pretty sure the issue is in the tank.

In addition to the above, I suggest you perform a Fuel Pressure Test to determine if it's operating within specifications. Air and lack of fuel can damage injectors if left un corrected.

Another consideration is did this occur with 1/4 or less fuel in the tank. The pickup Foot on the tube sometimes break causing the operator to run out of fuel with a 1/4 tank remaining.

Fuel Pressure Tests:

Tools: Fuel Port Adaptor and Pressure Gauge 0-160 PSIG / DVOM

Measure Fuel Pressure at Fuel Bowl Test Port Spec. 45 psig min

a. Fuel Pressure at the right head

Verify that fuel is in the tank and the pump is being powered.

Measure fuel pressure at the front of right cylinder head Road Test- engine at full load condition Spec. Measurement / Head 0-160 PSI / WOT 45 PSIG min.

If fuel pressure fails low, go to step 8c.

If pressure is above min. spec, go to step 8b.

b. Fuel Pressure at the left head

Measure fuel pressure at the front of right cylinder head Road Test- engine at full load condition Spec. Measurement / Head 0-160 PSI / WOT 45 PSIG min.

CAUTION: Secure hose away from turbo and exhaust

If fuel pressure is below min. spec, replace left check valve

If fuel pressure is above min. spec, Go to step 9.

8c. Electric Fuel Pump Pressure

Measure Fuel at Fuel Bowl Test Port Spec. 45 psig WOT >42 psig

Measure at fuel outlet from electric fuel pump: 45-80 psig

Road Test- engine at full load condition 45-80 PSIG

If fuel pressure fails low, go to step 8d.

If pressure is above min. spec, replace right check valve.

8d. Electric Fuel Pump Inlet Restriction

If fuel line is restricted above 6 Hg, check for: blockage between pump and fuel tank.

If fuel line is not restricted, inspect regulator valve condition and for debris, If OK replace pump

*This Broadcast Message Replaces Testing Procedures on all 7.3 DIT 1999.5-2003 F-250-F-550 Models*

Sometimes it takes a while to get all the air out of the system after fuel pump goes or running out of fuel. How many miles have been driven since the fuel pump was changed?

So I replaced wire set up under both valve covers. I replaced icp. And the plug still runs bad. I checked ohms on injection all 2.9. Still won't run good really ruff like on 4 cylinders. I also looked at wires that touch valve cover and found nothing. No engine light also.

The simple way to test fuel pressure and volume is to use the water drain valve with a piece of hose attached to the end of the metal tubing. Make the hose long enough to reach a bottle/jug sitting under the truck.

After draining the filter, with KOEO you should get about a quart of fuel before the pump times out. If the flow here is anemic or you don't get the volume - chances are the in-tank filter/screens are clogged. I seldom find one of these trucks that doesn't have clogged screens and/or broken umbrellas.

You can also put a hose and clamp right on the drain valve and run the hose and any cheapo pressure gauge up to the windshield wiper and observe pressure while driving.

If this simple test does not yield results - my recommendation is get a scan tool and find out what's going on before throwing any more time and money at it. ;)

It was the filters inside gas tank pick up. Truck runs fine now.:-jammin

Did you get rid of the filters in the tank?

I just cut the return hose at the bend so it points away from the pickup and use a compression fitting and piece of tubing to replace the mixing chamber and umbrella. I put a 90* bend in my tubing so it can rest right on the bottom of the tank and use a WIX 33972 right in front of the pump. Cheap, easy and we end up with a serviceable pre-pump filter.