Recommendation for engine rebuilder
 

I'm new to the Tyler area, and I am looking for a recommendation for an engine rebuilder for my 1973 F250. I have a 390 long block ready to be rebuilt. Anyone?

Richard

I realize this is a month old, but what're you looking to accomplish with it? Stock? Mild performance?

Currently building a 513BBC for the Chevelle, have a full machine shop and wicked parts discounts at my disposal...

Krazee Matt, where are you located, Tyler?
And how do i get signed up in the Texas Chapter?

I'm down in south Houston bud.

Up at the top of the pages in this sub forum (under the quick nav bar) there's a section that has the link to join, took a screenshot of it so you can find it easily...

I'm looking for mild performance. I'm not doing any street racing or anything, but when I put my foot in it, I want her to get up and go. Turning a few heads in the process would be nice. At the same time, I'd don't want to stop at every gas station when going out for a cruise.

I'm getting a business off the ground at the moment, so this is a project that is on hold until funds are a little more plentiful, but this is something I would love to get done in the next 12 months.

Richard

TeachNlive4ever,

Just click the "Join Chapter" link located next to the Texas Chapter heading at the top of any page in the Texas Chapter Forum. If I am slow to finish the process from my end, just send me an email. OK?


Timothy

I'll have access to everything for about the next 18 months or so, then I'm out and moving on to real work so there's time.

Mild performance is good, older Ford blocks like to shift around and putting a sonic test to them will make you cringe, lol. FE's are some of the worst...
Regardless, a mild performance build shouldn't be hard or budget-breaking.

Matt, Can you do a 6.9 rebuild? I'm in the south east side and have a 6.9 Motorcraft reman that needs rebuilt.

Wow I could have sworn I replied to this, I'm sorry Cruise!

You're talking about an older IDI right? Honestly an engine is an engine, but the availability of parts and the current state of your existing motor will determine a lot. Unfortunately, upper rotating assembly parts (pistons and rings) can't be purchased until the engine is torn down and the bores assessed with a dial-bore gauge to determine how much they'll need done to clean up. Could be just a clean-up hone, or a small overbore. Since it's already been rebuilt once, you may end up oversized even more over stock depending on what they had to do on the rebuild.

Its an '87-ish 6.9 IDI Motorcraft reman. The parts for these is astoundingly high. Especially for an engine that isn't hardly heard of. I'm betting its trashed. Was abandoned with the air cleaner off and hood up with a bad cowl seal. Logic dictates rain just poured in, But when I pulled the drain, only 2 quarts came out. Shes not locked up though. Haven't started it yet, Waiting to get new battery cables but I can almost bet mine and my wifes life savings its shot. Especially since I found coolant in the oil. BUT, It was NOT milky. Just a weird greenish color to it.

I can get a substantial discount on internal and external parts, however based on the not so popular nature of your engine, I am doubtful if there will be anything available...

If water sat in that thing forever there's a chance algae started to develop, lending the oil a greenish hue. I would caution against trying to start it as that may cause more damage than has already been done. It takes up to 45 seconds for a standard oil system to fully pressurize the engine and get lubricant to all the required points. Only having two quarts that came out doesn't mean a whole lot - I just tore down an old M10 BMW 2.0 4-cyl and only a quart came out of the pan. Half the oil passages were clogged up, and the rest of the oil was stagnated in the passages from debris and sludge. Made for a very messy surprise further into the tear-down.

Thats the kicker, the oil its self was graphite grey. However, There were some "splotches" of liquid green. I've already tried to start it on what cables I had available but couldn't spin her over fast enough. When I drained the oil, It was first about 2 quarts of grey water, Then hot tar viscosity graphite grey "sludge" that "dumped" out over the coarse of 30-45 minutes. Left the plug out over night, Pulled all 8 plugs, dumped fresh trans fluid in each cylinder, replaced drain plug, Then dumped 4 quarts fresh diesel, 1 bottle of heet, 4 quarts of rotella 15-40, and a quart of MMO. Have not changed filters yet but will soon. Have to get it off first and so far I've broken 3 filter wrenches trying.

Might be easier to cut the filter off then vice-grip the threads after hitting them with PB Blaster or similar.

Thought about that. We'll see.

This is what I'm dealing with. This was taken in the shade. In te sun it looks like graphite and the camera picked it up as looking like chocolate. I don't know. Heres a video of it.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...907496ca6e.jpg


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...dea3e6a1ae.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3df58d684d.jpg