When I rebuilt mine I didn't have any muddy stuff... that's pretty yucky. You should go to Harbor Freight and treat yourself to a parts washer.
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Originally Posted by Glowplugger
(Post 15230094)
Back on the bowl, I undid all the stuff like in the PDF, until I got to the fuel bowl heater plug, which wasn't plugged in at all. Hmm..
http://i58.tinypic.com/54wpw2.jpg Just a thought... |
Originally Posted by Tailgate77478
(Post 15231080)
OK...so BEFORE YOU START THE TRUCK, you may want to re-disconnect your fuel bowl heater plug, since it was disconnected already. Reason being, if the heater element is shorted out, it will blow your fuse and the truck won't start at all. Most people leave it disconnected so that it never leaves them stranded. There is an updated part for about $20, but I figure if you don't live in Alaska, then you probably don't need it. Went through a D.C. winter this year with both of my trucks' plugs disconnected. No issues.
Just a thought... I replaced the heater. Is this still an issue? |
Originally Posted by SDElwood
(Post 15230150)
When I rebuilt mine I didn't have any muddy stuff... that's pretty yucky. You should go to Harbor Freight and treat yourself to a parts washer.
Heh! I thought about that. For now I just wash them by hand in the sink (when The Blonde isn't around) or a big wash tub. |
Glowplugger.... serious reps sent your way for all the step by step detailed and close up pictures you have been posting. I'm sure they will help a lot of people in the future... to be able to see inside of what they are getting into. Thanks! Keep "plugging" away...
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Originally Posted by Glowplugger
(Post 15231440)
I replaced the heater. Is this still an issue?
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Tip, if your dipstick feels loose, if may have pulled out of the pan when you removed the valve cover bolt, or the o-ring is screwed up.
Check that before you go out for a first drive, or you may come back with an oily mess, just like I did. . . |
Good advice DL!
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
(Post 15231514)
Glowplugger.... serious reps sent your way for all the step by step detailed and close up pictures you have been posting. I'm sure they will help a lot of people in the future... to be able to see inside of what they are getting into. Thanks! Keep "plugging" away...
Originally Posted by Tailgate77478
(Post 15232093)
If you replaced that fuel bowl heater element, then you should be fine. I guess I missed it as one of your measly three repairs. :D Seriously, you're going to have a new truck after all of this. Unbelievable how much you've done in so short a time.
Originally Posted by DL1221
(Post 15232536)
Tip, if your dipstick feels loose, if may have pulled out of the pan when you removed the valve cover bolt, or the o-ring is screwed up.
Check that before you go out for a first drive, or you may come back with an oily mess, just like I did. . . Thanks DL, it's not pulled out but it is very wiggly in the hole. It kinda feels like someone just stuck it in the side of the oilpan. I ordered a new dipstick flange from rockauto for $26.00 Dorman part number 904256. Today I'll be pulling that VC (Valve cover) off and putting the fuel bowl back on. Geesh, the older you get the more recouperation time you need between marathon repair sessions. Time, why you punish me? :p http://i58.tinypic.com/6tfc4p.jpg |
Unfortunately, your going to have to pull the motor to change out that flange. I would check the little oring on the dip stick tube first. A new one may stiffen it up a bit. http://www.dieselorings.com/1999-200...be-o-ring.html
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This is another option but it leaves the inner piece in the pan which I would have bad dreams about. Price makes me cringe as well! I don't know where they came up with that number.
https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-269...epair-kit.aspx |
If you do need to replace it I would then do the pan while you are at it as they are known to rot out.
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Wow Bee! Can someone say design flaw?
I won't be pulling the engine. That's beyond my level of expertise. I'll put some red silicone on it after cleaning it off and live with it I guess. It's nice that the link above offers a solution, but for $300 they better come out here and install it for me and clean up the mess under the truck to boot, ya know! LOL! Thanks for the heads up. You saved me $26 and a whole lot of hair loss!:-drink EDIT: Here's a couple of guys with fixes. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ybe-fixed.html |
Maybe I am missing something...but why do you need to remove the valve cover to re-install the fuel bowl? The fuel bowl just uses the two bolts through the HPOP reservoir, and then the four fuel lines and drain pipe.
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Originally Posted by Tailgate77478
(Post 15233258)
Maybe I am missing something...but why do you need to remove the valve cover to re-install the fuel bowl? The fuel bowl just uses the two bolts through the HPOP reservoir, and then the four fuel lines and drain pipe.
The passenger side vc was leaking when I tested it. It's two separate jobs, one is the fuel bowl and the other is the leaky vc. On a whim I drained a gallon of oil out and poured a gallon in, but it leaked about a cup out of the back of the vc. I'm pulling it off to see if (hopefully) my gasket was moved and didn't seal right or (less hopefully) I pinched it in two and need a new one, or (scary thought) that a crease/dent in the valve cover is leaking. I'm thinking if the dent is leaking I can maybe weld it back up if I go light and clean it good before? I don't know, but it's worth a shot. Maybe it's just a misaligned gasket though. :) |
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