And daughter

... in the Caribbean! :D

When you make it to the Caribbean, look me up. First beers are on me. :D

I would have been impressed if I had seen a beer in the cup holder finale.

Dinner on National Geographic isn't likely to ever happen, but I might sneak her out after the kids are all grown and gone. We have a whole passle o' kids so free time is a pleasant memory, kinda like that smell of your mom baking cookies when you were three. :-X04

Today I started getting feeling back in my back and hands again so I cleaned up the up pipes (if I'm using that term right) in a bucket of diesel. Also uncovered a nest of black widow spiders hiding in my wash pail (you can see a dead one in the bottom corner in the straw). They're all shiny now, the pipes AND the spiders. I cleaned the valve covers too but they're still ugly black. I considered painting them but they have stickers on them and not too sure how that'd turn out.

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So I went back inside and washed the diesel off of me then I had some ice cream. Sometimes it's about the reward.

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It'd look like painted stickers...

Those are your intercooler (IC) tubes, and the valve covers are green. Why do you insist on using diesel as a cleaning solvent? It stinks, and simple green works just fine with hot water.

The 2002 should have been the same as the one you have. I think whoever you bought the other one had it mislabeled. They did not switch to that square style until the 05's.


Way to go on this build it is look great and you are flying through! :-jammin

This is what everyone calls them. However, you will see them also referred to at the stealership as Charge Air Cooler or "CAC" tubes.

Your up pipes come off of the exhaust manifolds underneath the truck. From up top in the engine compartment, you will see one each going into the sides of your turbo assembly (in the rear near the firewall).

Lastly, looks like the previous owner removed all the "foil" off your CAC/IC pipes. From the factory they are covered in an insulator that slightly reduces heat in the engine compartment, but also reduces the amount of engine noise. Some people see it as an "upgrade mod" to remove it, others see it as an annoyance. It all depends on how much engine noise you want to hear in the cab.

Well we sure don't want that! :-X06

I don't know, I was always told that if you have a greasy car mess to clean up just use diesel. it smells for a bit, but it cleans real fast. I've tried simple green and it seems to take a lot more elbow grease. I still use it, but not really on really filthy parts.

Just my luck! I had heard it was supposed to be a direct fit, but was surprised to see it wasn't even close. Thanks for the clarification!



CAC tubes, huh? Wouldn't want to say that out loud in a room full of mechanics without enunciating real slowly! :-X04
"First you take yer' cac..."

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That foil sounds like a handy thing. Is it sold anywhere besides the dealership? I might pick up a set in the future. Skippy's as loud as any other diesel I pull up next to at a red light so I guess he's normal, but I'm not crazy about the sound in the cab. We have to turn the radio up to 1/2 way to hear it properly.

Brown Santa came again with a jew jack system. We'll try it out this weekend while The Redhead learns how to change a tire on Skippy

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Hopefully it's got all the parts. :p

Ooo, and SDElwood, my new best beer buddy, thanks for this thread

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ake-whine.html


Going to try that this weekend if I can get time to add it to the list.

Both the brakes and steering whine and complain. I attributed it to the bad brake pad leaking so much before, then after I fixed that and topped the power steering off with ATF I thought maybe it was that trailer brake thingy.

Now I have a possible solution. :-jammin


Gracias amigo!:-drink:-drink:-drink

My rocker bolts still haven't made it in so I piddled around today. I replaced the airbox restrictor, motorcraft Part # FA1758.

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Then I gently ran out those other 4 rocker arm bolts out that I overtorqued. No drama there. They all backed out nicely.

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Then I thought I'd work on that air conditioner condenser. I got a new one for $55.00 off of Rockauto.com

To start with I pulled off the two nuts on the passenger side of the condenser. That's really all that holds it in. They're both 13mm.

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After pulling the nuts off the top one fell off easily. The bottom one needed a screwdriver to pry it off gently. They have little rubber seals on the pipes so be careful if you have to pry.

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At this point it was free and I could move it around wherever. I spent the next 20 minutes removing the power steering cooler to drop the condenser out the bottom, but that was an exercise in futility. It comes out through the top.

You just have to remove the cover on the top of the radiator and it pops right out. I used a hammer to pop the little plastic "nails" out.

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After popping them out you just lift the cover away.

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Then the hood latch needs to go. I was worried about springs flying everywhere but nope, it's an enclosed system. Just run the bolts out.


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Then that lifts away.

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The entire condenser just lifts out and away after that.

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A seal got caught in my old condenser so I used a booger picker to pull it out.

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I cleaned the seal off with compressor oil and slipped it back on. It was still in great shape.

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I then dropped the new condenser in.

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Then I peeled off the seal on the new condenser and slipped the pipes back on.

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Then I tightened the nuts back up to just past snug and tada! Ready for a new condenser later.

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The whole time I was working on this the radiator hose mentioned earlier was staring at me so I went ahead and zip tied it up out of the way.

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Back on the condenser, I noticed that my condenser was loosely flopping on the driver's side. I didn't like it.

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So I put a little glue on one of the foam braces that came in the new condenser's box and used it to brace the side of the condenser. Pretty stable!

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Then I ran the hood latch cable through a clip that it had fallen out of. I hate loose cables when there's a perfectly good clip right there.

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Then I just reattached the hood latch, making sure to put the bolts in the same spots as before, based on the dust.

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Then I dropped the dust cover back on and hammered the little black nail thingies in.

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And that was it for the condenser. I don't remember if I mentioned it, but the tailgate had a broken clip on it so I replaced that next.

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I had to stack two clips to get them to fit the hole though.

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Then the rod snapped in. Worked 100%

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Then I moved to the rear seat. In another thread on the board I heard that my seats are the one year that fold down flat for loading cargo. I didn't even know they moved, but I did know the seat back was coming loose from it's foam so I thought I'd just fix that.

I found this little black latch strap and pulled it. Open Sesame!

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It opened straight open and flat as a board. Nice! I thought the back might fold too, but no. It was just bolted to the wall. I used a 14mm socket but this isn't the standard bolt. My seat wasn't factory installed. In fact, my rear seat was TAN but someone painted it gray with vinyl paint I guess. If I rub too hard on it with a cleaner it starts to let the tan show through again.

Anyway, there's two bolts on the bottom of the seat. That's all that's holding it in. The top just locks in holes in the back wall.

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On mine the bolt goes all the way through the cab wall and out the back. I had to put a wrench on the other side to keep it from spinning off.

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My hands were too fat so I paid the Powder Puff an orange slushy to hold the wrenches for me while I spun the bolt out from inside.

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After getting both bolts free you just push down on the seat top and it pops free.

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I noticed the carpet on the back was coming loose too so I put plastic "nails" in it in the appropriate holes.

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Then I had The Powder Puff vacuum out the back seat area.

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Back on the seatback, you can see how the top of the seat cover was pulling away. This usually hits the kids in the back of the head and pushes them forward. It's very uncomforatble.

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The solution for me was to get The Redhead's hole puncher and pop a hole about every 2 inches along the seatback just above the stitch line (for strength).

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