Gauge pod parts?????
 

I just installed a 3 gauge A-pillar pod and let me tell you, that was harder to do than installing the gauges.

Anyways, I damaged the plactic push nails and I need some additional ones. Does anyone know if there is a retail place I can purchase them? I'm thinking maybe Home Depot but I haven't checked.

Thanks:)

Gauge pod parts?????
 

Ryan, I can't help ya on the push pins however Home Depot sounds like I good place to look. I am thinking of putting in the 3 gauge pillar myself and have a few questions for you. What type of gauges did you get? (Autometer, ISSPRO) Where did you get them from and if you don't mind at what cost? Assuming you got the standard pyrometer, boost and trans: what type of thermocouple did you get (clamp or weld/bolt-in)? Did you install it pre or post turbo? What type of transmission gauge (electronic or mechanical)? I read a post earlier that someone purchase a mechanical by mistake (not on his behalf) and the sensor housing does not fit in the designated hole. Finally, any lessons learned? I know when I do it, I am going to make it harder than it is so any input from experience would be great. I always seem to run into Murphy's Law a lot.....

I was thinking about getting the digital pyro but I am concerned about being able to see it clearly in the sunlight. ???? :-tap

Gauge pod parts?????
 

OK let me walk you through my setup and I'll tell you the problems I encountered ( hence the need for additional push pins).

First off I purchased the Autometer z-series gauges with a 3 mount A-pillar pod. I purchased the boost gauge (0-35 psi) and trans temp gauge. I originally bought a mechanical trans temp but, as you saw in my recent post, the sensor is way to big to fit in the trans. The directions say it needs to go somewhere in the engine. I contacted Autometer and the tech told me I needed the electrical trans gauge. Apparently the sensor is much smaller. I have yet to recieve the gauge so I went ahead and installed the other two (pyrometer and boost). I suggest doing all three at the same time. Much easier.

I painted my pod first. It was from a company called Propods. Painting the pod right out of the box was my first mistake. What you should do is first remove the stock A-pillar and place it behind the UNPAINTED pod. It should fit snugly if you got the right one for your vehicle. Next you want to drill 4 holes, one in each corner for the push pins. Make sure the stock pod and new pod don't move while your drilling. The holes should line up on each.

Next you want to spray a plastic primer on the new pod. I purchased a grey color so it would be close to the spray paint color. Once that dries (10 min.) go ahead and spray paint the pod. I put on 5-6 light coats. Let that dry (30 min.)

BOOST GAUGE: This was the easiest to install. Cut the MAP sensor line and fit it with a T fitting. Your gauge will not come with this boost kit so you will have to purchase it separately. For directions on the MAP sensor check Diesel injection service website. Run the tubing for the boost from the t fitting, through the firewall on the drivers side and up behind the dash.

WIRING: Do all the wiring for all the gauges at once. You will need 2 rolls of 30 feet 14-16 gauge wire for the lighting and electical connections. Make sure you get 2 different colors so you don't get confused. I ran the ground wires to a bolt located under the steering wheel. I removed the kick panel and to the far right there were 2 bolts screwed into the metal. Wrap all the grounds for all the gauges together and run them to the same bolt. I ran the hot wires for the lighting to my dimmer switch for my instrument panel. Behind the light switch find the blue wire w/ red stripe (dimmer wire), may be different for your truck. Tap all the hot wires into the dimmer wire. Run all the wires up behind the dash. I made sure to zip tie all like wires together so there was less of a mess. Believe me when you have all the wires for all the gauges pulled up behind the dash it can be quite a sight. I places male and female connectors on the wires for easy assembly and disassemly.

PYROMETER: I installed mine pre-turbo in the exhaust manifold. I used the drill and tap method. A weld was to permenent for my liking and the strap on method I have heard becomes loose over time. The drilling was pretty easy, just be careful not to let any large pieces into the pipe (very bad for turbo). Once I screwed in the bolt, I ran the wiring through the engine compartment, through the firewall and up behind the dash with all the other wires. I attached the RED hot wire for the pyrometer in the 30 AMP fuse in the fuse box under the steering wheel. I ran the ground with all the others.

POD INSTALL: Once all the wires are pulled up from behind the dash and zip tied, take your painted pod and put the gauges in. The order is whatever your preference is. Attach the grounds and hot wires for the lighting and hookup any other connections. Once done make sure all the wires are lying flat in the pod and then place your stock A pillar over the new painted one. Line up your holes and insert the push pins. Re attach it to the truck and your done.

My install took about 4 hours. I tried to be a thourough as possible with the install, but let me know if you have any other questions.

:-X06

Gauge pod parts?????
 

Thumper,

If you want to there are places that will sell you all the gauges assembled and in a painted pod starting at about $375. This includes 3 pod a pillar pod painted to match your interior, Pyro, boost, and transmission temp sensors and gauges.

Gauge pod parts?????
 

ryanben:

Gauge pod parts?????
 

Ryanben:

Oops ! Anyway, I've seen those push pins you're asking about at Lowes, if there is one near you. They have trays of specialty fasteners in the aisle with the nails, screws, etc.

Thumper:

I found install instructions for gauges at www.westerndiesel.com. Just click on the F series truck picture, and then the icon on the left for instructions. It lays it out almost exactly like ryanben's explanation, and with decent pictures. My pyrometer was from summit racing for $117 (autometer ultra-lite series), and installed it post-turbo since the Banks downpipe I installed already had the port for it. The mechanical turbo boost gauge was around $42(autometer ultra-lite). Ran the wires along the wire rail under the hood with rip ties, and cut a small hole into the steering column boot, then up the drivers side to the a-pillar (installed a 2 gauge pod). Did the wiring just like diagrams from western diesel. Ordered the turbo boost install kit from diesel injection service in Texas for around $16.

Gauge pod parts?????
 

Ryan, I am thinking that I can handle this project. My only concern is drilling the manifold for the pyrometer sensor. Where exactly did you put it Ryan? I have not looked very closely at the turbo in terms of picking a spot for the pyrometer. Was it hard to get a drill in there? Does the sensor just screw in to the hole that you drilled and tapped or does a person need some sort of adapter? Did you use a shop vac while drilling to prevent shavings or chunks from falling into the turbo? One more question: after your experience, do you think it is worth paying the $375 to purchase the A-pillar (already painted) with the gauges installed; thus just having to connect the sensors/sending units and route the wires? Thanks for your time and help. I am thinking about ordering the materials today.

Gauge pod parts?????
 

Thanks for everyone's input. This is such a great source of information. :-X06

Gauge pod parts?????
 

If you go under the truck on the drivers side and look up at the exhaust manifold, you can see where it connects with the turbo. It was fairly easy to drill into. Just lay on your back and drill up into the manifold. I used a 1/8 inch thread tap so I could screw the bolt in. The trick to not getting shaving in the pipe is to use a lot of grease on the drill bit and tap. Just drill and tap real slow so the shavings fall down on the ground. Some people drill the side of the pipe but it made more sense to me to drill the bottom, that way gravity helps to keep the shavings out of the pipe. I have also heard that you can turn the engine on while drilling. The turbo blades aren't spinning and any shavings that get in will be pushed out the exhaust without damaging the turbo.

As far as the preassembled pod go, if you have the money to burn go for it. Same as with having a professional install your gauges. If you don't mind shelling out the cash it's the way to go.

Gauge pod parts?????
 

OK guys I ordered a set of preassembled gauges. I chose the preassembled gauges in an effort to eliminate the possibility of me screwing things up as much as possible. I always seem to have the bull in a china closet effect happen when I try to install stuff like this. Hopefully I won't brake the stock pillar when I pull it out. I am having second thoughts about having a white face gauge while my dash is black. I am afraid they might look a little funny. Anyone have any experience or input with this??

Gauge pod parts?????
 

I have the autometer gauges with the black face and green light that matches the dash lights. Cant comment on the white face but I think It would look alright. If you run into any problems installing them just come here. Hopefully we'll be able to help.

Gauge pod parts?????
 

DCSpecial has some whiteface gauges--check his gallery, I think he has some pics in there.

Gauge pod parts?????
 

Thanks for the info. I think the white will look fine. I really liked the C2 line that autometer has but I couldn't justify spending almost $700 for a gauge set.......they are cool looking though.:-X06

Gauge pod parts?????
 

Ryan,
Did you drill into the actual manifold or did you drill into the pipe that goes from the manifold up to the turbo? I crawled under there today and looked so I am curious. My guages should be here this week and I want to get them installed. Thanks again for you help.:-tap

Gauge pod parts?????
 

You drill into the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold to the turbo. There are two different pipes that bolt together. You want to drill into the pipe that is closest to the exhaust manifold. It should have a little bit of rust on the outside. At least mine did anyway. The other pipe that runs up to the turbo is gray and shiney. Hope this helps:)