The project begins, 12 Volt Conversion & Rewire
 

Hi Guys,

Just became a paid member!!! (Love the benefits!)

Been sometime since I last posted but will be posting often since I am taking on this project and will need help. Working on a 1949 Ford F1

Question#1: I plan on bypassing the start button and wiring the truck so it starts directly from the key ignition. From what I can tell the trucks ignition switch must have been changed out at some time since if I am correct in 49 they originally came with only 3 post switch (Batt, ACC, IG).

My truck has a 4 post switch. The wiring diagram that came with my kit calls for a 2 post starter button (I do not want to use one since I've been told they do not make one that will fit the original hole). If I was to bypass the start Button (what post would I connect the wire that comes off the (S) from the starter Relay to on the 4 post ignition switch??)

Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question.

Thanks

The 48-51 trucks used a starter solenoid that triggered off the starter button grounding the small post on the solenoid. In 52 they changed to one that needed battery voltage on the small terminal to trigger it. So the 48-51 starter buttons only had one terminal, and grounded that terminal to the dash when pushed. The 52 button has two terminals and connects them together when pushed. It needs power from the ignition switch or other hot wire to function.

If you are going to be replacing the starter solenoid, most commonly with a later Ford 4-terminal piece, you need to use the 52 style (2-terminal) button, as they also need voltage applied to the small "S" terminal to trigger. If you want the key to operate the starter, then you just wire from the "S" terminal of your new switch to the new solenoid's "S" terminal.

With the help of Ross and a few others I completed a 12v conversion earlier this year on my 49 F1. The truck already had a 2 post starter button in it and I kept it that way. You can buy them at NAPA or look online for a more authentic look if you want to go that route.

Ross-- will the 2 post starter button from a later model work (51 or later)?

Here is a link to the thread for my conversion. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...onversion.html I also converted to electronic ignition at the same time. Good luck, and post some pictures.

Merry Christmas!

sere0501, ALBUQ F-1

Thanks for all the information!!! Man that is one AWESOME thread on your wiring project!!! I purchased the same kit that you have, Vintage auto except I purchased the 100 AMP GM Alternator. I also purchased a complete wiring harness from Sacramento vintage ford (the whole enchilada!). I am reading as much as possible before I start removing wires!

ALBUQ F-1: I plan on bypassing the the push button as I have been told that a 2 post switch will not fit in the hole where my single post is located. I noticed that the ignition switch was changed out at some point since it has 4 post, I am just going to wire (s) to it.

NOW I definitely want to buy some nice circuit breaker, where can I purchase them?? Just saw the link.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/718...ace_Mount_120A

Since I am running 100 AMP Alt should I purchase the 100AMP or 120 Amp Circuit Breakers?? How many do I need??? I do plan on installing a radio at some point.

Is 100 AMP alt to much power??/Over KILL?

The single and double-terminal starter buttons are physically identical. NAPA sells the '52-up button:
NAPA - Starter Switch

I personally think the push button is just too cool to remove. It's like starting a 65 year old rocket ship! Well a rocket that has less then 100hp....... I never did the breakers,and I currently have all the wiring out and will be redoing it soon, but still no beaker or fuse box. I'll be asking these guys for some advice when I get George back together and wired. I'll run some inline stuff for now. Is your wiring harness marked every 6"s or so? If so, it will make wiring it much easier. Either way I would take a lot of pictures and mark everything as you take it out (as you can tell by my thread, it worked for me).

The 100 amp should be good if you're doing a radio, and maybe even an electric fan?????

Enjoy!

Having a 100-amp alternator is overkill unless you plan on power windows, A/C, a really big stereo, and other big loads. It won't hurt anything tho. To protect the alternator output wire, you want a 10-gauge fusible link, most likely. To protect the wiring to individual circuits, you need a modern fusebox with circuit breakers for the lighting, and fuses for most other loads.

Did you buy a stock replacement harness? Or are you going to buy a universal kit? If you don't have much electrical experience, you may be money ahead to have a shop re-wire it.

Subscribing

"Did you buy a stock replacement harness? Or are you going to buy a universal kit? If you don't have much electrical experience, you may be money ahead to have a shop re-wire it."

I purchased a stock wiring harness, came with diagram and all is labeled, cloth type wire. According to Sac Vin Ford they make them in house and have all oversize wire that can handle 6v or 12v.

I did get some estimates to have it rewired and I am looking at about 2000 to have it done. I thought since I am off from work for the next 2 weeks and purchased a member ship here I would try and do it myself.

Can I use https://www.bluesea.com/products/718...ace_Mount_120A to protect the alt output wire? If so do I need 100 AMP circut breaker? What would you buy?

Thanks

Linkee no workee

$2000 to rewire it?! He must not understand what's involved. 90% of the circuits will be identical to stock, just the alternator wiring will be different. If Sac Vintage knew you were using an alternator, those changes may be incorporated into the harness, and may even include the fusible link.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7187

So just to make sure I am understanding, I should run either a fusible link or this type of breaker to protect the Alt output wire, and if so what rating would you suggest, 100 AMP?

Or does anyone have an image or a part number for another breaker they may be using??

I would only buy a wire kit that incorporated
a fuse box with the spade fuse, not the glass
ones. JMHO. And 2K for wire install is several
hundred more than the truck cost new. What has
this world came to. I pay as much for supply's
and groceries a month as these trucks cost new.
Oh!! What I would do for the use of a time machine.
Now ya got to admit Guys that would be so fun in so
many ways. We should start a time machine thread
and what we would do if we had 24 hours to go
back and buy or do what ever, when ever. Wow!! this
could be a fun thread. Prolly be best in the club ya think?
Should I start one? What ya think Ross?:-blah

Fusible links are designed to blow only when things really go to hell, because they literally burn up and have to be replaced. The correct sizing is two wire gauges less than the wire they are protecting. A 100-amp alternator likely has a #8 output wire (for 12v). So a #12 fusible link is likely the correct size. But that should be confirmed.

I don't know the details of your new wiring kit, but if it is meant to be a stock replacement with alternator instead of generator, I would assume it uses the two stock circuit breakers. You need to see what you get when the kit arrives.

"So I purchased the same kit you have and I am wondering in the end Where did you finally run the large #10 wire (red and black) that goes from the alternator?? I cannot tell from your final pictures how it connects?

I am assuming it goes from the alternator to the ammeter to the circuit breaker and then to the starter solenoid where the battery hooks up?"

Vegas, I'll just answer your PM on here for future viewers. I'm certainly not the expert, as you know from reading my thread on the issue, but I'll break down what I ended up with. I strongly suggest you get the shop manual if you have not already. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5da45a97be.jpg

Also, posting your motor configuration is a good idea.

Here is a shot of my old gauge cluster from the back (I'm replacing it with a nicer one I pulled from an F2 when I put it back together in a few weeks). I did not buy a harness at all, I'm just running single wires as needed.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...275225e207.jpg

We'll call the post at the top of the 30 amp breaker #1 and the one on the bottom of the 15 #4 and the middle two will be self explanatory.

Post #1 should power your light switch
Post #2 will go to your ignition and the other wire you can see is the one that runs to the alternator.
Post #3 will have one that runs through the amp meter and then on the positive side of the starter solenoid (see photo). Another wire will power the 2 post push start button.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e0e3014ab8.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c8cd424335.jpg


Post #4 will power things like dome lights and I believe the gauge cluster lights through your original light switch (refer to manual).

I hope this helps you get started.......

My arctic brother; it sounds like someone has been tipping back the eggnog a little early....... how's the weather down south?