bleeding brakes
 

On my truck I have always had an issue bleeding the brakes with "one man brake bleeder". The small fitting along with how it's positioned. Do any one man brake bleeders exist for my truck? Should I use the vacuum style?

I use the one man bleeder where there is a tube that runs into the jar, and you put enough new brake fluid in the jar to come up past the bottom of the tube before you begin. There are different size fittings to put over the bleeder valve on the vehicle, though it usually would take the same one. Always worked for me.

I guess you can figure out the principle of this, air comes out and rises to the top and the fluid in the jar doesn't let air back in.

I understand the principle of bleeding the brakes and know how to do it, just need better equipment. I can't imagine a mechanic uses two people.

Just curious what style you were using?

I had one a long time ago that just let air out and wouldn't let it suck back in(no fluid jar) that one worked until I couldn't get the fitting to stay on the bleeder.

Don't have anything now, because nothing bad worked for me. Not sure if I need to clarify but on my caliper where I bleed the front brakes, the fitting points forward, just like the tires. If it pointed to the alxe, I think it would be easier.

Best tool to have is a vacum brake bleed tool when your on your own, mine is a Mac tools unit, has several sized bleeder fittings, a one litre tank, vacum on/off valve and a fitting for your shop air line.
I can do a 4 wheel brake bleed/ flush in less than ten minutes, came with a bottle to feed brake fluid into the reservoir so your not constantly having to check.

Probably more than I need but can you post a link to what you have used?

It's a Mac Model #BB2000, it was about $130 off the truck, it's the most painless tool ever in terms of operation and result.

FOR WHAT ITS WORTH: The tool I referred to under #2 is a Lisle #19200. It comes with 90 degree fittings that hook onto the bleeder screw. IMPORTANT NOTE: You have to get a short piece of hose to run down in the jar, there's a nipple to hook it on to. Cut it at an angle so it doesn't suck against the bottom of the jar. I don't know why they don't include the hose.

I am ready to start this...I am going g to replace both of the brake lines ccoming off the master cylinder.

is it OK to replace both lines then bleed the brakes? or replace one at a time and bleed in-between?

is there a specific order I should bleed the brakes (back first or front first)?

i do not use the one man bleeders, i feel they are a waste of money.
99.99% of the time i gravity bleed brakes.
i do have a pressure pot, but have only used it three or four times in the past 25 years.

you can change both lines at the same time.
i start at the passenger side rear. once i get solid fluid out, i close that bleeder and open driver side rear. then passenger front, and finally driver front.

Replace both lines, then bleed furthest line frome master cylinder, so right rear, left rear, right front and then left front.

Get a buddy to help bleed the brakes, I personally don't like gravity bleeding, there's usually some air bubbles that won't come out that way, but to each their own.

What seem to be real slick are speed bleeders. These are replacement bleeder screws with a ball check valve inside.

Gravity bleed works fine too, but doesn't always work for some reason. Worth trying. I would wait till you're done replacing everything, then bleed otherwise you may end up doing it over.

Do not forget about the RABS hydraulic module on the driver side frame rail.....it has a bleeder fitting too.

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