Help...Flywheel/Crank Locked-up
 

I started an earlier thread about changing my clutch. Well, after removing/re-installing my flywheel...to change my pilot bearing and RMS...the flywheel and crank are locked-up...I can't turn the crank from the front crank pulley...I'm thinking the flywheel bolts are too long, but their the same ones I took out...do any or all of the bolts take a washer or??

Silly question..

Is the clutch installed? If so - tranny in neutral?

I assume the starter is still out?

From what I recall, the bolts are all the same size on the flywheel. They'd have to be pretty long to cause a problem I'd think

Yes, the clutch and starter are still out...I removed the flywheel to change the pilot bearing and rear main seal (RMS)...I needed to turn the crank for clearance when torquing the flywheel bolts down and it wouldn't turn...it turned before I re-installed the flywheel?? Are there supposed to be washers on the flywheel bolts??

Loosen the flywheel back up and see what happens.

Yes, the bolts are all the same length. However, I'm 99% sure once I loosen the bolts, it will free up the crank. But, why...what went wrong :?

I know that the bolts on my flywheel (on the 4.9 new build) do not have washers. Come to think of it, I haven't tried turning the crank since I installed the flywheel.. Think I'll try that this afternoon...

The crank didn't get locked-up, until I tightened down my flywheel. This job is really kicking my ass :/

If you loosen the flywheel, can you turn the crank?

In looking at mine, the bolts would need to be WAY long to lock things up. Did you do anything else? Install the rear main seal?

I'd loosen it up and be 100% sure that is the problem before I started chasing things.

I know you said you are 99% certain loosening it up will allow it to turn. I'm betting it either won't, or in the process of loosening it up you'll figure out the problem.

I changed both the pilot bearing and rear main seal (RMS). It took me forever, just to get the flywheel lined-up and bolted down...I was able to spin the flywheel before I tightened the bolts down...I can't imagine the RMS is locking it up :?

You could spin the flywheel, but was the crank turning or just the flywheel?
I think there is something else wrong.
I know it's a pain, but loosen / remove the flywheel and try the crank

Yes, I could turn the crank/flywheel from the balancer. I know I will have to pull the fly back off...I'm just trying to troubleshoot a bit...before I do it.

I think the RMS is sticking out too far.
Did you pre-lube the seal?
They don't like starting dry.

Yep, I pre-lubed. The seal is flush with the edge of the rear surface of the block/cap. I just can't imagine that would stop the crank from turning.

On the 4.9 is there a spacer/dust plate that goes onto the back of the block before the flywheel is installed?

If you loosen the flywheel a bit, at what point is the crank able to rotate?
You can't hear anything rubbing or dragging when you turn the crank?

Right now the crank is 100% locked-up. Yes, there is a plate that goes between the fly and block...starter bolts to it.

Is it hanging on the dowels, exactly where it needs to be when the bellhousing bolts up?
Or is it pinched?

I haven't even gotten to that step yet...I just put the fly back on...snuged-up bolts...went to torque the bolts down and needed to turn the fly for clearance (from balancer) and it wouldn't turn.

Doesn't the plate go on BEFORE the flywheel?

I know it sounds stupid, but do you have the flywheel facing the right way?

The block plate does go on firsta nd then the fly...smooth side of fly is facing towards the trans.

The few people I've talked to I know who are wrenches...keep telling the fly bolts are too long and preventing the crank from turning, but their the factory bolts that have been in the truck all along...I'm thinking a couple of the bolts require washers on the backside...?

Yes, you said before, you are using the same bolts that came off.

I've only ever seen a washer on a flexplate bolt, never a flywheel bolt.

How can you bolt up the flywheel without the plate in place, if it goes on first?

The plate has to be in position.
There should be locating dowels in the back of the block.
Hang the plate on the dowels and THEN bolt the flywheel up.

99% this is your problem.

First, let me thank you for your time on this...The block plate is on first (up against the block), but you could bolt the fly to the crank without it.

Okay.
The plate on most engines would never fit over the flywheel.
IDKA 4.9's...

I just don't see what would prevent the crank from turning completely...there is no dragging...metal hitting metal sound, etc...its just locked-up.

Is the plate free to move... bang around???
If it's in front of the dowels, it is pinched by the flywheel.

Like KS said, loosen/remove the flywheel and see what's up.

There is two dowels coming from the block, that the block plate goes on...I will check and see if it slipped off, etc while putting the fly on.

Also, my book says to torque the fly bolts between 54-64lbs/correct?

Just take the dang thing off and figure out what happened, all this speculating is just a lot of self-imposed drama. ;)

I'm not a mechanic, just a guy who may be is a bit more mechanically inclined then some. Also, s I'm working on my back in a cold parking lot w/little to no-clearance...I wanted to troubleshoot a bit, so I know what to look for LOL :)

I'll bet a "cold" parking lot to you is 70°F or colder. ;)
Just playin' with ya

Cold enough...30's in the mornings :)

I did this on ice when I blew the input shaft out of my T-19 back in the winter of '10-'11.

A frozen puddle makes it real easy to slide under the truck.
Wrenches so cold they stick to your hands really suck.

Amen to that.

But we like drama...

:-X19

No offense to anyone, but its not always easier to just start tearing stuff back apart...when your working w/limited resources, on your back, etc.

Here is what the problem was though...for those of you who are tuning into "As the Wrench Turns"...

Two of the six flywheel bolts were longer then the rest...I put washers on the two longer bolts w/washers and put them in holes on the fly, that are farthest apart. Problem solved I hope. I hope to wrap things up tomorrow or the weekend.

NONE of the flywheel bolts are longer.
Ford has used the same damn bolt for everything right up until metrics.

Get the right bolts or your flywheel is going to part company with the flange.
I hope it doesn't hurt you or someone else in the process.

All the bolts look exactly the same, except 2 of the bolts are 3/16 of an inch longer then the other 4. These are the same bolts, that have been with the truck since I've owned it (1 year) and prob since ol' Henry made it. Plus, once I put a flat washer behind each of the two longer bolts, it freed-up my crank (they were hitting the back of the block).

I had the same prob. once, when I used some ARP Bolts on a new C4 in a drag Mustang (those I cut down). I don't have anything to cut grade 8 bolts at hand.

I know it probably won't matter much being near the center, but I still don't like the idea of the heavier bolts and washers being in there. If you are going to do it, at least put them on opposite sides to sort of balance each other out.

Yes, I put them on the two farthest spaced out bolts...opposite sides of the fly. I may just get some new ARP Fly Bolts though. I don't trust the pressure plate bolts, as I've broken old ones in the past, so I'm getting those anyways.