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Ford truck information and then some....
Ok so here is the deal FTE folks, I am going to dump all the information, tips & tricks/troubleshooting ideas and all other Ford truck related stuff in one thread. I have accumulated a lot of over the years and I want to say a big “Thank you” to mikeo0o0o0, Number Dummy and Dennis AKA mil1ion. In all actuality I only have a few from him, but want to thank him and the many others that have contributed either a little or alot like earthquake68, ranger429, 75F350.
I am thankful I have a job that lets me travel the world, but sometimes I have a lot of free time on my hands, especially on weekends. I hate being away from my trucks, and to help pass the time I focus on things I like. That being 73-79 Ford trucks and helping 73-79 Ford truck owners. FTE is a great enabler for this, yea I can’t wrench bend on my trucks from where I am at, but I can FTE it for sure. I simply copy and paste in a JPEG format the diagrams and the PDF like it is, and save it in a picture folder on my computer, the word stuff is saved in a Doc folder. (hint hint) That way it’s always on my computer, internet or not. Now I know it’s not all 110% perfect, but I have read, reread, tried, applied and used pretty much all of it, in one way or the other. If it’s wrong or you think its BS, then don’t read the rest of it, try it, or copy it, it’s that simple. A lot of the sequences like front clip removal, gas tank drop…are just what works for me. The diagrams work for a # of things, like disassemble of certain items, and to get you going in the right direction come time to ask mikeo0o0o0 or ND “Where is X part”, just reference the diagram part #. Again, thanks to all the FTE members that have given their input. And always remember ND said “The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.” Edit: Sorry a lot of the wording and pics do NOT match up. I too expect after reading something, that the pic is right there supporting the explanation. But as you go thru it and copy stuff and build your tech library, just put it in individual sections or folders, like eng, trans, body, a/c ect... I have it all in one folder and knew where things are. Also if I blew up your phone with FTE thread updates sorry. And I want to apologize for the picture size's too, I work on Ford trucks and helicopters, not computers. lol I think this might get a sticky and maybe some IT guru can work it over to be more user friendly? Lawyer Drivel.....BECAUSE OF THE WORLD WE LIVE IN NOW DAYS.There is no guarantee, expressed or implied, that this information is either useful, or accurate, or both. It is merely the personal opinion and collection of many things by the author and or a lot of FTE members. Use it at your own risk. You have been warned! |
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Do you see the blue line with User CP, Albums, FAQ? See the SEARCH on that line?
It has a drop down search menu arrow, go to the "Advanced Search" option, top left side (search block) type in there what you are looking for and then go to the lower right column and highlight 73-79 forum. Select it and then you will have a detailed search just in the 73-79 forums. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Ford 351M and 400 fuel pumps put out about 7 psi if "spot on". Holley and Motorcraft Carbs can take in excess of 7 psi due to longer float arms with large floats. Carter AFB & AVS & Edelbrock carbs have shorter float arms which is in part why they are more compact, and smaller floats and they are less tolerant of higher fuel pressures, 6 psi is the max that Edelbrock recommends for their carbs which are copies of the Carter carbs. They recommend that a max pressure used at 5.5 psi. High fuel pressure does not mean more power as many cars we considered as muscle cars used 4-6 psi. You likely need a decent Fuel Pressure Regulator like Holley's # 12-803 and use a fuel pressure tester in a tee between the carb and FPR to set pressure at 5.5 max. Do not waste money on a Spectre or Mr Gasket FPR. Once set you can remove the tee and tester. ------------------------------------------- SD spring lift info I got a set of SD springs from the junk yard and added my bottom stock leaf to them. Had to get me 4" or so. Add-a-leafs will ride terrible. For the rear, just flip the shackle, that will net you around 3" and will sit the truck a little more level. I spent $45 a spring pack for the SD springs, so I had a 4" lift under $100. Oh, I suggest making some front shackles 1-2" longer than stock, as the SD are around 1" longer, so they could bottom out on the frame. All in all the whole setup should get you 3-5" and a level truck. If the front sits too high you could also get F-350 rear blocks, they are 4" instead of the 2" that are in F-150 and F-250 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ In case you want to replace the alternator wiring harness, that's the one that goes from the alternator to the regulator. Harness, alternator wiring Fits 78 f100-350 w/ amp and oil press. gauges all engines and 70 amp Ford alternator D8TZ-14305-B Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 40 (800) 543-4959 |
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Steering box input or out put seals leaking? It’s done before with the box on the bench, it can be done on vehicle.
Remove the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft (sector shaft), WITH THE PROPER TOOL, then there's a snap ring that needs to be removed. Once that's out of the way there is a washer, then a seal, then another washer and another seal. Remove the first washer exposing the first seal. Take a sharp center punch and pierce the seal, screw in a sheet metal screw and pry the seal out. You can do two screws 180 degrees apart too. NEW ADVICE: Remove the pitman arm. Remove the snap ring. Thread the nut back on just a couple of turns. Crank the engine, and turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, until the pump pressure pops the seals and spacers out. The nut keeps the seals and spacers on the shaft, in correct order and orientation. Keep your old seals and spacers. Lay them out, in order, and oriented correctly, and then photograph them. You may need some of them because the kit can come with different thickness spacers, and might not be the same as the old ones. Fortunately, the spacers can be reused. The nut on pressure removal trick keeps you from using a screw to remove both seals and possible save one. Once the first seal is out, remove the second washer and repeat the process. (you can also try just removing the snap ring, (after the pitman arm is off) turn the wheel to the left and start the engine, it will usually blow the whole thing out, both seals and spacers but you better have a huge drain tray under it, then reassemble.) To replace the seals, apply a thin coating of grease to the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of sealer to the outside diameter of the seal (I like No. 2 Permatex non-hardening). Slide the seal over the shaft and take a deep socket that’s just slightly smaller than the OD of the seal and drive the seal in until it seats. Replace the washer then the next seal, washer then snap ring. Reinstall the pitman arm, hook up the steering linkage and that's it. If you don't have a socket that's deep enough you can use a piece of pipe or PVC tubing too. The killer on these is getting everything centered. With the exception of the sector shaft Ford basically only sold the internals as an assembly. The input shaft (F3AZ-3E502-A) & sector shaft (D7AZ-3E501-A) seal kits are available from Ford and auto parts stores. Seal kit, steering gear sector shaft Parts list #64, With gear ID SPA-AB, AJ, AN, BN, BS, BX, CC, CN Basically this covers all 73-79 2WD F100-350 w/power steering D7AZ-3E501-A .. Sector Shaft Seal Kit Last dealer cost $29.41 List $43.71 So try the dealership OR …… Parts International, Farmers Branch, TX (972) 241-8730 Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH (800) 543-4959 Manderbach Ford, Temple, PA (610) 929-3683 Freese Motor Inc., Monticello, IA (319) 465-3541 Herb Chambers Ford, Westboro, MA (508) 366-8311 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...+steering+seal Steering box input seal…piece of cake 30 minutes 78 F250. Try dealership OR……Autozone part # 8520 $8.99 in stock. Ford part # F3AZ-3E502-A Input Shaft Seal Kit… Undo bolt at rag joint, remove plastic cover on steering column (in cab) loosen steering column bolts (2 bolts to dash) pull up on column and disconnect rag joint from steering box. Drill small hole in dust seal on steering box & screw a screw in and remove seal remove snap ring, drill hole in seal remove with screw. Replace seal, snap ring, dust seal and reconnect steering column. |
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The locking hood latch used on 1973/79 F100/350's & 1978/79 Bronco's is the same ... The locking hood cable is the same as 1975/80 Ford Granada/Mercury Monarch
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Turn signal issues? First you need to remove the steering wheel, then the turn signal switch. Drive the roll pin out of the gear shift and pull it out. There is some spring pressure to work against to get the shifter out. Then, underneath the turn signal switch are two nuts. Try loosening these first then remove the casting. These are what "clamps" the collar in place. If you take the nuts all the way off the little square head bolts might fall into the steering column and can be a real pain to retrieve. Once all that's out of the way, you can pull the shift collar off. To remove the turn signal switch, you need to remove the phillips head screws that hold the switch in place. Unplug the switch harness under the dash. Look at the harness plug, then look at the terminals, there are little plastic fingers that lock them in place. Depress the fingers and pull the wires out of the plug. Be sure to make a chart of where the wires go. Once the plug is removed, tie a string around the wires and pull the switch out all the way. The string will make getting the wires back through easier. The shift collar just pulls off and the new one pushes on. After that reassemble in reverse order. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To use H1 rims on a Ford without recentering them. If you want to use them in a stock form, then you need a 76" wms. Stock single wheel rears are in the 67" range. So basically if you have a 60 front you need the dual wheel hubs. If you’ve got a 44 then get the front drw spacers from a 88-up chevy or 94-up dodge. For the rear get a dual wheel rearend from a pickup. Can’t be from a cab and chassis truck. Those have a 72" wms. Then you can get a 2" spacer. Another option is if you can find a drw 14b or d70 hd from a chevy you can swap the drw hubs for the srw hubs and you’d be set. Have to figure out brakes but with a disc swap it’s not hard. |
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The 351C/M/400 takes a special thermostat with a kind of collar around it. A 192-5°F thermostat is the one to use. Use only the Cooper-Robertshaw thermostat. This has been discussed many times in the 335 series engine forum.
Where to buy a 335 Series thermostat 3 options: -Find a dealer with a RT-139 still in stock. -Robert Shaw 333-180 -Napa THM 297 After calling a local Ford dealer, I was able to track down a dealer that has the RT-139. It’s a dealer in Kansas but they will ship it to you. Bob Allen Ford 1(800)676-0675 ------------------------------------------------- Ignition modules, 74 (black grommet) and 75 (green grommet) are year specific and will not interchange. 76 to 79 (blue grommet) are interchangeable. Ignition modules: 1974 is 1974 ONLY / 1975 is 1975 ONLY. Blue module introduced in 1976 was used well into the 1990's. 1973-1974 ?? D4AZ-12A199-C Green Sales in OH. Collectors Auto Supply in WA. Haven Ford in KS. Klimesh Motor Sales in IA. Bob Allen Ford in KS. Freese Motor Inc in IA. Wesley Obsolete Parts in KY. Dennis Carpenter Ford in NC. ------------------------------ NEW IGNITION MODULE INFO Ignition modules, 74 (black grommet) and 75 (green grommet) are year specific and will not interchange. 76 to 79 (blue grommet) are interchangeable. Ignition modules: 1974 is 1974 ONLY / 1975 is 1975 ONLY. Blue module introduced in 1976 was used well into the 1990's. D4AZ-12A199-C 1974 only DuraSpark ignition modules identified by a colored plastic insert located above where the wires feed out. 2 others: One has a red plastic insert, the other has a yellow or brown plastic insert. Red module is D7AZ-12A199-A used in some CA vehicles ONLY. D9AZ-12A199-C (replaced D8AZ-12A199-A). One of these modules is yellow, one is brown. Since the part number was replaced, I (ND) cannot recall which module was which color. These modules were used in 1978/79 302 & 351M/W vehicles sold in high altitudes only. 351W: Passenger Cars & Econolines only. 1U2Z-12A199-AA (replaced D6AZ-12A199-B - D7AZ-12A199-B - D8VZ-12A199-A - D9VZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module - blue insert (Motorcraft DY-893) / Available from Ford. Myriad 1976/90's FoMoCo vehicles. Green Sales in OH. Collectors Auto Supply in WA. Haven Ford in KS. Klimesh Motor Sales in IA. Bob Allen Ford in KS. Freese Motor Inc in IA. Wesley Obsolete Parts in KY. Dennis Carpenter Ford in NC. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The 400 uses a 12" clutch and the 351m uses a 11" D7TZ-6375-D .. 400 Flywheel-Use with 12" clutch. D7TZ-6375-E .. 351M Flywheel-Use with 11" clutch. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Bleed p/s the FORD way and it works every time!!! 1- Hook everything up 2- Fill with fluid 3- Jack up front of truck off of ground (Both front wheels) 4- Disconnect or Disable coil (So Truck CANNOT start) 5- Turn Steering wheel lock to lock about 5 to 10 times 6- Top off Fluid 7- Repeat Step 5 8- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid) 9- Crank engine over (Ignition Disabled) and turn steering lock to lock 5 to 10 times 10- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid) 11- Repeat Step 9 12- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid) 13- Enable Ignition 14- Start Truck and turn Lock to Lock 5-10 times 15- Turn off Truck 16- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid) 17- Repeat Step 14 18- Repeat Step 15 19- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid) 20- Let Truck Down off of Jacks or jack Stands 21- Repeat Step 14 22- Steering should work just fine, have all the air bled out and have a quiet pump to boot!!! |
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NP435 = aluminum top cover w/8 bolts
T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts Warranty Plate TRANS code: A = NP435 (N-1965 only) / F = Warner T-18 / P = F350 Warner T-19. Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads on/off. NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins. To remove this cap, it must be pressed down and held down while turning it counter clock wise to remove it. (Its spring loaded and twists into place, we removed one and it was a 2 person job. Put the trans into 2nd, 4th, or reverse, then one person holds the cap and applies pressure, twisting in a counter clockwise direction. The other person taps it from the top with a hammer to get the cap to go in below the two clips that hold it in.) People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out the pins. Originally NP435: Reverse-down towards the seat while Warner T-18: Reverse-up towards the dash. The reverse shift pattern was changed circa 1973, but I can't recall for which of these 4 speeds. ( I believe it the NP435) Note: There's another 4 speed: RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive introduced in 1978 F100/150 300/302, TRANS code B ------------------------------------------------------------ The OEM radio was powered by a GREEN 2-terminal pigtail. YELLOW with a BLACK stripe is switched power, BLUE with RED stripe is dash illumination. Do not mistake the BLUE with RED stripe wire for ground. The OEM radio grounded through its mounting chassis. The speakers were connected over a separate pigtail. ------------------------------------------------------------- Ok I looked behind the glove box and found a connection the goes off the green and yellow. GREEN with YELLOW stripe wiring is hot-at-all-times power for the courtesy lamp circuit. Use that. There is a 3-connector pigtail behind the glove box (which also goes on to power the cigarette lighter). It's not the stock radio wire because the stock radio didn't need hot-at-all-times power (EXCEPT the factory digital AM radio for clock memory). solid black—power blue with red stripe--dial light black with gray dashes—ground orange with green dashes--right speaker white with green dashes--left speaker |
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Here's what the factory wiring diagram says: for rear lights
Blk/rd= backup lights Black= side marker, tag lights (on styleside) Brown=tail lights, tag light (on flareside) green= RH stop and brake Yellow/blk= LH stop and brake Rear light wiring BROWN: running light circuit YELLOW with BLACK stripe: driver-side stop/turn GREEN: passenger-side stop/turn BLACK with RED stripe: backup lamps 73 & 79 headlight-marker lights use same color codes Brown= side marker and parking lights White-blue trace= turn signal Red-black trace= Low beams Green-black trace= Hi beams Black=ground Flat bed wiring… Brown= Run Light Green= Brake light- L Yellow= Brake Light- R Black= Reverse Light?? Just wired my front lights. The brown wire is the marker light (side and turn) it is also the top wire on the turn signal socket (three wires in a triangle). The black is ground of course. The white/blue it the turn signal. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 78/79 duel fuel tanks frame switch-Duralast/Universal 3 port fuel selector valve used with SW48 toggle switch Part Number: FSV4 --------------------------------------------- There are two differences between the tanks. Tanks with EEC have a hole in the top center of the tank. A rubber grommet and check valve are pressed into the hole. A line goes from the check valve along the inside of the passenger side frame rail to the engine compartment where it hooks up to a charcoal canister. Non-EEC tanks don't have this hole. The other difference is the nipple for the breather line that is located right next to the nipple for the filler hose is located 180 degrees opposite. If you are going from an EEC tank to a non-EEC tank you must also change the fuel cap to a vented style. The EEC tanks are vented through the EEC system and use a sealed fuel cap. Non-EEC tanks vent through the fuel filler cap. If you run a non-EEC tank and a sealed cap the minimum is you'll have fuel starvation problems, at worst a collapsed fuel tank. - Is your truck a long bed 4WD? Does it have evaporative emission system? There are two possibilities with the plastic tank. 79 F150-350 regular cab, 133" WB 4WD, w/ evap. emissions system, 24.8 gallon mid-ship plastic tank D7TZ-9002-C Same w/o evaporative emissions system 26.3 gallon plastic tank D7TZ-9002-D Fuel sender 76-up F100-350 >s/n C00,000 Use with aft axle steel tank, includes gasket D7TZ-9275-D Bob Hoover Ford-Mercury, Vienna, IL (618) 658-9218 Brighton Ford, Brighton, MI (800) 336-3305 Beau Townsend Ford, Vandalia, OH (937) 898-5841 Own Ford, Jarratt, VA (434) 535-8515 Vintage Fords, Beaver Dam, WI (877) 846-8243 |
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Fuel gauge issues?
Disconnect the wire that goes to the fuel sending unit at the tank. Ground that wire to the frame, making sure the frame is clean. Turn the ignition to the "run" position and watch the fuel gauge. If the gauge swings all the way to full, either the sending unit itself is bad or it has a bad ground. If the gauge stays on empty then either the gauge is bad or there is a wiring problem. ---- To pop the plug off for the test, you can barely get up in there with your head and see the plug. While looking at it, VERY CAREFULLY use a screwdriver to pry it off. AND I MEAN VERY CAREFULLY. It is only pushed on like a 1/8". This is only if you can’t get it with your hands. Once you have done the test (above) and decide it’s the sending unit. And you have cleaned the ground and that did not work. Then disconnect the ground again and fuel line and read on…. If you can't get either one disconnected, no worries you will have a little more room once the tank is dropped down a little. But make sure you have some wire slack in the plug connector. Run the tank dry or almost or siphon it empty, I would not do it with ½ a tank of fuel, but if you just have to, just use a big floor jack and a piece of 2x2 plywood. It’s not heavy at all, unless you have it full or 1/2 full of gas. DRAIN THE TANK! Loosen the filler and vent hose clamps at the tank end and maybe you can pop the lines off? But most of the time you have to just loosen the clamps and wait till the tank is about out. With the jack in place, or not, just loosen the hdwr (2 bolts) on the front straps, and remove the tank straps aft hdwr all together, then swing the straps out of your way. Slide the tank to the dvrs side about 1/2" and then pull out or let the passenger side come out of the frame. Then disconnect the elec connector and eng feed fuel line if you could not get to them earlier. Then slide it as far as you can to the right and pop off the filler/vent lines. Sometime you need to carefully put a flat tip screwdriver in between the rubber hose and the tank to break it loose. The filler neck and vent lines get stuck to the metal pretty good sometimes. Once the tank is removed there is a lock ring that comes off with a screwdriver or punch, look for a small tab that has been bent over to lock it. Un-bend it, tap off the lock ring, remove the sending unit. Insp the underside of the tank where the support straps rest, lots of dirt and moisture build up there, and that causes the bottom side corners to rust out. You can also come reinstall time replace the anti-chaff material. Old 2" ratchet strap work great, glued to the support straps. (Rub/coat them with grease so they do not retain moisture, or coat them in the plastic tool handle dip). Insp the inside of the tank, might be a great time to replace it all together? Before you reinstall anything connect the electric connection and ground to the sending unit. Wire it up under the truck so it is not hanging by the connection. And with the key in the 1st (on position) you should be able to move the float arm and see a difference in your gauge?? It is always easier to do this with a helper..... Also before install, paint the complete tank with some good paint. Even spray on bed liner or undercoating?? ------------------------------------ 460 info I think the 1979 casting number prefix could be either D1VE or D9TE 1971/78 and some 1979 460 engines: The block casting number is D1VE-AB, A1B or A2B. These 460's do not have a weighted spacer / D1VE also applies to 1971/73 429's, as the block is the same. Mid-model year 1979: FoMoCo changed the 460 engine, has a weighted spacer, the block casting number is: D9TE-AB Since this was a "running change," there are no before/from specific serial numbers or production dates, so in 1979...the block casting number must to be known to get the correct parts. The flywheel (flexplate) & harmonic balancer are specific to either the D1VE or D9TE blocks. 460 WAS not available (FROM THE FACTORY) with 4WD or a Manual Trans until 1983, then only in F250/350's / No 460's available in F100's after 1976, F150's after 1979 (CA:1978), Passenger Cars after 1978 / No 460's available in 1980/82 F250/350's, E250/350's only. 1983/97 F250/350 460's have a hydraulic clutch. 1973/79 4WD's do not use engine towers (aka perches, stands), as there is no engine cross member to bolt them to. 4WD engine supports bolt to the inner frame rails. 1968/78 Passenger Cars, 1975/97 E250/350 and 1983/97 F250/350 460 engine mounting parts will not work on 1973/79 F100/350's. |
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I'd start by determining how much mechanical advance you have, then set my initial advance accordingly so you achieve 32-36 degrees total (as long as you don't experience detonation).
You can determine mechanical advance by pulling the breaker plate and seeing which advance slot the dizzy is using, the numbers will be stamped on the reluctor arms (only one advance slot is used) multiply this number by 2 and that's your mechanical advance. Example: a 13L advance slot = 26 degrees mechanical advance, so you'd want to keep the initial advance in the 6-10 degree range to avoid spark knock. Every vehicle/engine is different so you'll need to see what works best for your particular application, but the above numbers should get you in the ballpark, check out the link below it'll make things more clear than me trying to explain. Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index ---------------------------------------------------- Dual Battery System You can connect the batteries with a heavy duty relay. Wrangler Power Products in Prescott, Arizona sells a relay, three position switch and all wiring for about $100. Switch lets you connect both batteries when running (for normal use), all the time (jump start yourself), or not at all (If there is a problem with the batteries). Also marine supply houses sell manual switch for use in boats, they will work fine in a car, but you have to turn off the car to turn the dial and switch modes, or else it can fry your alternator. ---------------------------------------------------- Door hinges: you could look at the hinges on the driver side compare them to the passenger side. you will see that there is only two hinges and they are upside down on one side of the truck, ford only made 2 hinges for the 4 locations, so take the hinge you need from the opposite side off a truck in the wrecking yard as the passenger sides get used way less. So lower driver side hinge matches upper passenger side - they are the same part and upper driver side hinge matches lower passenger side - they are the same part According to sources this above info is incorrect, but it always worth a try to ck it out. They might be different part #’s but they might be interchangeable ? 1973/79 F100/750 & 1978/79 Bronco: D3TZ-1022800-A .. Right & Left Upper Hinge / Obsolete D3TZ-1022810-A .. Right & Left Lower Hinge / Obsolete The lower hinges contain the check strap, the upper hinges do not. |
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1973/97 F250 rear of rear spring bracket-frame mounted / Rear shackle & bushing kit
The rear spring bracket (hanger) is available from Ford. This is the bracket that is riveted to the frame rail (rear of rear spring), is notorious for rusting out. EOTZ5775C ..Rear Spring Bracket / EOTZ-5775-C replaced: D8TZ-5775-B & D3TZ-5775-C. MSRP: $71.34 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $54.79 Application: 1973/97 F250 2WD / 1977 (after serial # Y20,001), 1978/97 F250 4WD. After serial # Y20,001: This is the cut-off serial number for High Boys. This bracket is not correct for High Boys. This same rear spring bracket also fits some F150's & F350's. EOTZ = Ford updates 10's of 1000's of part numbers every year. This is a typical example. D3TZ5630F .. Rear Spring-Rear Shackle Bracket & Bushing Kit / Obsolete. Application: 1973/79 F250 2WD / 1977 (after serial # Y20,001) 1978/79 F250 4WD. Green Sales 1-800-543-4959 Dennis Carpenter has ONE 1-704-786-8139 D3TZ5776B .. Rear Spring-Rear Shackle Bracket / Obsolete This is just the shackle bracket only, it does not include the spring hanger or bushings. Same application as the shackle bracket & bushing kit. Collectors Auto Supply in Oroville WA has 276 (that's right, 276) 1-800-414-4462 Green Sales 1-800-543-4959 Part number sources: 1973/79; 1980/89; 1990/2002 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalogs. 1991 Ford O-S-I (Obsolete-Supercede-Interchange) Catalog. Some (most) dealer parts personnel are clueless, because when they look the number up in the 1973/79 truck parts catalog, it shows D8TZ5775B. When they type that number into the system, it comes up empty. What they are unaware of is, Ford updated D8TZ5775B in 1980 to EOTZ5775C. This is a good part number: Guaranteed. All your local dealer has to do is look up D8TZ5775B in their Obsolete-Supercede-Interchange Catalog ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For the steering box play - Start by adjusting the slack adjuster - it will be a locknut over what appears to be a bolt with a screwdriver slot. Put a screwdriver into the slot to hold it and back off the locknut. Slowly turn the screwdriver clockwise while rotating the steering shaft back and forth until there's very little to no play. Hold adjustment bolt and tighten the locknut. With power steering this is done with the engine running. Once the slack is adjusted out of the steering box, look at the top of the steering column (still under the hood) under the master cylinder. There's a heavy fiber washer (sometimes referred to as a rag joint) (1/2 ton only) that makes a coupling in the column, usually this is worn out and the cause for excessive steering play. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Why did I post a 65 Mustang 3 G diagram...so you know what to get from a 93 taurus. |
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Transmission install tip-8" long grade 8 bolts with the heads cut off to make guide studs. These make installing the transmission a whole lot easier, and since I was doing everything by hand, easier was always better. These bolts have been put in their own box and labeled for future use. Use a hack saw to cut flat tip screwdriver slots in the ends, use a grinder to round the ends a little after cutting off the heads. LOOK AROUND THERE IS A PIC OF THIS.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Trans tip 2- When installing a flywheel and torquing the bolts, you need to prevent the crankshaft from turning. I used a piece of 1/2" aluminum U-channel which I cut to length and slipped between two of the ring gear teeth. I then wedged it against the bottom inside corner of the frame at about a 60 degree angle. The aluminum is softer than the iron teeth, so any damage will occur to it long before the teeth, and it will actually conform itself to the iron teeth if enough pressure is applied. The U-channel also fits perfectly over the outside edge of an FE flywheel, so it will not slip off! To actually install the transmission itself, I slid it under the truck on a piece of cardboard, then used two pieces of 2" round hardwood stock laid across the transmission tunnel as "hands"...I tied two pieces of rope under the front and rear of the trans, then ran them over the stock, then back down to me. This way I could pull down and push up from underneath, while having the option of tying off the rope to the frame to hold the trans suspended while I re-positioned. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Two different types of windshield wipers, two different wiper switches. Two speed wiper switches have a low & high speed. Intermittent (delay) wipers were optional on 1973/79 F100/350's and 1978/79 Bronco's. Intermittent is not another name for low speed! DOOZ-17A553-A .. Two Speed Wiper Switch-Not used with intermittent wipers (Motorcraft SW-896) / Marked: D0OB-17A553-A or D / Obsolete 1973/79 F100/350 / 1978/79 Bronco // 1970/71 Fairlane/Torino/Montego / 1970/72 Maverick/Comet. SUSANVILLE FORD in Susanville CA = 530-257-2137. NOS ONLY in San Jose CA = 800-667-6659. WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293. GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959. D1OZ-17A553-A .. Two Speed Wiper Switch-Used with intermittent wipers (Motorcraft SW-1010) / Marked: D1OB-17A553-AA / Obsolete 1973/79 F100/350 / 1978/79 Bronco // 1971 Fairlane/Torino/Montego. NOS ONLY BURNS FORD in Burns OR = 541-573-7278. WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS GREEN SALES CO. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1st 2 pics....1976 on top 1978 on bottom |
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Non-divorced transfer case attaches directly to the transmission. A flange on the trans tailshaft housing mates up with the mounting surface on the t.case and the trans tailshaft is splined into the t.case input gear.
Divorced t.cases mount away from the trans. They are physically mounted to the frame and have a short driveshaft going from the rear of the trans to a yoke on the t.case input shaft. They used to be common on pickups, but tend to push the t.case back too far for short wheelbase vehicles ------------------------------------------------------------ Lincoln Mk VIII two-speed fan, Taurus or Lincoln cars A 95 Mercury villager minivan with a 3.3L V6. The stock radiator for this thing was a gigantic three core all aluminum radiator. However, the fan for this was a gigantic 19" two speed fan. This thing is massive. Bigger than a mark viii. If anyone's interested, I did some research the 92-2002 Villager is a rebadged Nissan quest. |
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E Brake- Pay attention to where the cable splits and goes from one to two cables. There are two different set ups. Here is what the Ford parts catalog calls for:
Cable, front, emergency brake. Fits 78-79 F250 4WD reg cab, 133" WB. cable length 108 1/2" long D7TZ-2853-C Wesley Obsolete Parts, Liberty, KY has 78 (606) 787-5293 Dennis Carpenter Obsolete, Concord, NC has 1 (704) 786-8139 Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 1, (800) 543-4959 The BRAKE lamp light in the instrument cluster has nothing to do with the emergency (parking) brake being on! Meaning, if you set the park brake, DO NOT LOOK FOR THE LIGHT TO COME ON LIKE NEW VEHICLES! C8AZ-2B264-A .. Low Brake Fluid Warning Lamp Switch-Threads into the Brake Pressure Differential Valve / Available from Ford & auto parts stores. Applications: 1968/79 F100/350, Bronco and Econoline & Misc Passenger Cars. When this plastic switch goes bad, the lamp comes on and stays on, so it's possible someone disconnected it. Edit: Wesley and Green Sales also have this switch. D6TZ-2A635-C .. Right Rear Parking Brake Cable - 57 1/8" long / Obsolete HAVEN FORD in Haven KS = 620-465-2252. WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293. GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959. D6TZ-2A635-D .. Left Rear Parking Brake Cable - 65 3/4" long / Obsolete HAVEN FORD or WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS GREEN SALES CO. D6TZ-2853-B .. Front Parking Brake Cable - 89 5/16" long / Obsolete GREEN SALES CO. WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS |
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D44-D60 But you will have a hard time finding a 60 with the 32.5" spring spacing, it'll have to be from a dentside. The '86+axles are spaced at 36", but are more common. Honestly the price you pay for one is way over rated. I happened to get one and put it in my truck, but it is just bragging rights to say "Yeah...I got a D60 front axle." They are over rated unless you continually are beating on it so hard you are tearing your D44 apart all the time.
The truths: Yes it is heavier...doesn't do much but slow your truck down. Yes it has a bigger ring gear...haven't broke yours, so why need to go bigger? Yes it has bigger u-joint...good news is that likely won’t break on you. The pitfall: (The outer shafts are the same diameter as the outer shafts on a D44) POSSIBLY INCORRECT (just a different spline count). Instead of maybe breaking a u-joint you will likely break an outer shaft and good luck finding a cheap replacement. The D44 held up for you for now, why change it? Also spare parts for the 44 are cheap. If you have 3:55 gears now and want to find 4.11s just find a D44 with 4.11s in already. I wouldn't pay more than $200 for a D44 front...they are very common. One questions for this would be what size tire are you running? For off road use the D44 is usually good 35" and under tires (yes there are many exceptions for this). If you rebuild the D44, do you plan on putting in after market (stronger) axle shafts and u-joints (or do you already have them). Load rating tests show that a fully upgraded D44 axle with good aftermarket shafts (there are LOTS to choose from and some are far better than others) is about equal to a stock D60 with 35 spline outer stubs. Ok now you just upgraded your axle shafts... what does your current ring and pinion look like? If you are eating up teeth or snapping pinion shafts there is really no fix for this but to go to a D60... well there is one possible option and that’s a Dana 50 which is a kit to drop in D50 gears into a D44, bigger ring gear but same pinion shaft diameter. If you are going to regear and going to keep the D44 this might be a good time to look at this option for increased strength. Last question is... with the plow on the front and any extra weight are you over the D44's load rating? If you are really working it hard do you know if your D44 is still strait and are you overloading the wheel bearings? Might be time to weigh the front half of your truck and see where you are at. An axle truss might help, but I'd say if you are past the 44's weight I'd move on to a 60. --------------------------------------------------------------- ranger429's hard work tracking down parts, shows right here For anyone looking for a brass/copper core advanced auto part number 398304 is the correct one. It is also the same core that fits early, 68'ish mustangs. Laurel Mountain Mustang is where I bought mine from. Part number just in case it is needed in the future: For A/C 18476-1A For non A/C 18476-2 1973-79 BRONCO HEATER CORE - WITHOUT A/C - BRASS | Laurel Mountain Mustang HAD THEM AT ONE TIME NOW CLOSED DOWN, DEAD LINK Also NAPA but makes sure and ask are they aluminum or copper? NOW CARRY SPECTRA BRAND that are ALUMINIUM Copper is what you want. Heater core, high output heater C6OZ-18476-B Antique Auto Supply, Arlington, TX (817) 275=2381 CLOSED DOWN Wesley Obsolete Parts, Liberty, KY (606) 787-5293 Dennis Carpenter, Concord, NC also HAD 1 but they have it listed under C60Z-18476-B, the third digit is "zero" instead of the correct letter "O". (704) 786-8139 Additional C6OZ-18476-B heater core applications: 1966/70 Falcon w/o A/C / 1966/72 Fairlane/Torino w/o A/C / 1971/73 Mustang/Cougar w/o A/C Heater core w/ factory A/C or hi-low comfort vent system D3TZ-18476-A Std Heater core D3TZ-18476-C -------------------------- Why show a 90 to 96 fuel tank....that skid plate will fit a 38 gal tank you swapped into your truck. |
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For OEM radio help, the guy to use is in Scottsbluff Nebraska. His name is Gene Cochran, and he works out of his house. He's a crusty old codger, but does some tremendous work. While he had the radio apart, he updated some of the internals and cleaned the heck out of everything. My total bill was $25! His number is 308 632-2520 (I checked with him at the time I collected my stereo, and he was OK with giving his number out) He also lined me out on the manner in which the old radios were wired (mine at least). The speakers are in series meaning positive from radio to positive on speaker #1, negative from that speaker goes to positive on speaker #2. Negative from Speaker #2 goes to Negative on stereo. Now the stock stereo rocks as loud as the little 5 1/2 speakers can handle!!!
While it's there you might see if he'll wire in an aux input jack. I had it done with mine, and it allows me to run my I-pod through it. Basically when the I-pod is connected it becomes the antenna source. Cost in parts was under $5. I set mine on a 12" extension so I could just drill a small hole in the dash by the ashtray, which I'm turning into a covert charging / storage station for my phone and I-pod. won't cost much more. ------------------------------------------------------------- Also just to clarify the square headlights did start on the 78 model trucks. The base and custom package trucks came with the round headlights in 78 and the rangers, ranger xlt, and lariat trucks came with the square headlights. |
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New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed. BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE THE PAPER TITLE vin, AGAINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRANTY PLATE) vin, THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! And then check the DVRS side B PILLAR white sticker (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) below the striker bolt. THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME in 2 places! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER. If the paper title vin does NOT match door tag, WHY NOT? If the door is a different color slow your roll and be ready to dig deep. Ok so was just the plate changed maybe? Does it have hollow mount rivets? That is what OEM use, NOT some standard pop rivets. Or the door was changed because of an accident. Why? The white sticker has the vin and it should also match. It is made to not peel off with out falling apart, so it is hard to switch them. But if they do NOT match, time to go vin hunting on the frame. Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere. Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s). Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around. How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth, any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work? Fluid Check. Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old? Look like a milk shake? Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake? Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid. Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled? Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt. Pre-Operation note: The BRAKE lamp light in the instrument cluster has nothing to do with the emergency (parking) brake being on! Meaning, if you set the park brake, DO NOT LOOK FOR THE LIGHT TO COME ON LIKE NEW VEHICLES! Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE…. Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge? Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if elec choke works. On initial start you should get the RED brake light and the RED seat belt light, they SHOULD go off after about 8 or 9 sec. Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time. Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work? Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)? A/C blow cold? CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read? Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil. Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maintenance history, previous owner’s ? Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what you might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no. Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!) |
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460/4 core radiator? Your truck most likely has the optional Super Cooling radiator (26 1/4" wide x 24 11/16" high). The top tank is HUGE, it's wider and deeper than the standard/xtra cooling & A/C radiators (that are 26 1/4" x 19 3/4"), overlaps the core
----------------------------------------------------------- Dana 44 front-If your truck has half ton internal hubs, chances are you have the three piece spindle nuts. The inner nut sets the tension on the bearing. The lock washer slides down the slot on the spindle and a pin on the inner nut goes in a hole in the lock washer, and the outer nut holds it all in place. Sometimes, you get lucky and that lock washer slides right down and the pin in the nut goes right in a hole in the lock washer, sometimes it doesn't. Some Ford Dana 44s use a self locking spindle nut that does not require aligning the pin and makes installation much easier. If you have the 3 piece spindle nut, a good trick is to try the lock washer and if it doesn't line up, flip it over and try the other side. The holes are lined up a bit different when the lock washer is flipped over. Often this will do the trick, but sometimes nothing seems to work. Especially, if you are trying to fix a broken axle on the trail. The Ford spindle nuts eliminate these problems. The Ford spindle nut ratchets down and locks on every click. You can set the perfect load on the bearing with no worries of aligning the pin. You have to press in on the spindle socket to engage the teeth in the ratcheting nut. Works a bit different, but easy enough. The only down side to the Ford nuts is the cost. They run about $15.50 brand new at the Ford dealership. The jobber price is probably a lot better than that, but most of us ,like myself, have to pay retail. It probably is not too hard to get the nuts at the junk yard, but to save time, I just purchased two nuts brand new at the dealership. My local dealership had them in stock, so there was no waiting. When I went to the dealership, I asked for the nuts for a '94 Ford F-150. I'm not sure what range of vehicles they might have been used in. The Ford part number is E7TZ-1A134-A. One thing I had to do with the Ford spindle nut is remove some material on the tab that slides in the slot in the spindle. I guess the Ford spindle has a wider slot it it. I did this with an air cut off tool, but a file or a hack saw would work. ------------------------------ Dana 60 full floater - Rear wheel bearing adjusting nut - 50 -80 ft lbs, back off 1/4 - 3/8 turn. (Check for play). lock washer - bend a tab or two over the adjusting nut, or use the same bent ones in the same place. wheel bearing locknut - 90 - 110 ft lbs. Axle shaft retaining bolts - 40 - 50 ft lbs. Between 65 and 75 ft lbs.. spin... tighten.. repeat.. repeat... repeat... until torqued,, then back off 1/4 turn... put on lock washer.. put on second nut.. torque to spec.. then bend tabs over both nuts.. in either direction.. in at least two places on each nut 2 9/16 thinwall axle nut socket...1/2 inch drive I bought mine at oriellys out of their catalog. This one is for those of us with Dana 60/70's. The usual spindle nut set of 3 pieces (a nut, washer with tabs to fold over, and another nut) usually work alright, but there is an easier way to go. Ford part # E8TZ-1A124-A is all three of those in one. It is a one piece ratcheting style locknut that all you have to do is torque down and go. It takes a 4 prong style spindle nut socket. I have them on my front 60 and rear 70 and they work great. They cost about $15 apiece from my local Ford dealership. |
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With trans in neutral and clutch "out", the input shaft is turning and "internal windage" as the trans lube is swirled will still apply a rotation to the output shaft when there's nothing to stop it turning.... like when you slide the TC into neutral on the way from 2hi to 4lo.
Mine has a C-6 and while I can shift from 2hi to 4hi with trans neutral with engine running, I need to stop and place trans in PARK before going from 2hi through TC neutral to 4lo for similar reason. The deal is when that TC hits neutral, there is nothing to stop it's input shaft from turning, and that means nothing to stop the transmission output from turning .... (except in my case when I place C-6 in Park the park pawl locks the trans output shaft) ..... and in your case, pushing the clutch in will minimize it. If your clutch drags a hair, you'll maybe need to shut your engine off .... in which case the clutch needs adjustment. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- There is a great HB complication thread here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...mpilation.html This is to show you why a 77-79 aft fuel tank will not fit in 73-77.4 HB 1973/77 F250 4WD (High Boys), some 1973/79 F350's have the narrow 33 1/2" rear frame rails behind the cab. All other 1973/79 F100/350's have 37 1/2" frame rails. This is the width between the inner frame rails. The Styleside beds used on 1973/79 F350's on the 140" wheelbase have the rear axle set back further, so these beds cannot be installed on anything else. Styleside left quarter panels (bed sides): 1973/76's have exposed fuel caps, 1977/79's have fuel doors. The fuel tank filler tubes are different 1973/76 vs 1977/79. 1977/79 F100/350 F/R fuel door and hinge assy (D4LY-65405A26-A): Same as 1974/76 Thunderbird, 1974/79 Lincoln Continental Mark IV & V and 1977/79 Bronco. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Changing the timing chain makes a world of difference on the 351M. The stock chains are retarded timing wise 5 degree, and just get worse as they stretch. Get a 71' chain with no timing retard and they are completely different motor. |
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As for the push button start switch. If you don't want to repair the wiring to use the key switch, one wire from the push button needs to go to a constant 12 volt hot and the other wire needs to go to the small "S" terminal on the starter solenoid.
-------------------------------------------------------------------- To adjust the safety neutral switch on the column. 1) Transmission in Neutral (chocked wheels) 2) Gear shift lever in Neutral 3) The switch with the holes lined up (use small drill bit to align it). Once you have done all this......tighten the switch bolts up. --------------------------------------------------------------------- When the trucks came with a manual trans, there was a dummy plug used to bypass the NSS switch. I've never been able to come up with a part number for the dummy plug. To bypass the automatic set up: Unplug the switch and discard or ignore. There are four wires in the harness plug, two each, red w/ blue trace and black w/ red trace. Run a jumper between the red/blue and red/blue, do the same for the black/red. That completely bypasses the NSS switch. Your truck will now start and the back-up lights will be permanently on. Now 0n to the backup lights. In the engine compartment is a little U shaped jumper wire. It'll be located on the drivers side splash pan, just in front of the firewall where the wiring harness comes through. Unplug the little jumper, this will shut off the back up lights. There should be a back up light switch on the trans cover. Run two wires from the switch to the two wires that were jumped. This will get your back up lights working again. Just a note, you could make a jumper plug out of the NSS. Cut the switch off the harness and splice the two pairs of wires. I just hate to cut these switches up. New, they're getting pricey. Here's the little jumper in the engine compartment. EDIT: If you don't care about the back up lights, just jumper the red w/ blue trace wires. This will bypass the NSS but the back up lights won't work. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TO FIGURE OUT WHAT SPEEDO GEAR YOU NEED FOR A TIRE CHANGE. http://jimroal.com/drive.htm |
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Hydro-Boost: 1972/79 Lincoln/Continental Marks / 1972/76 Thunderbird / 1973/78 LTD/Mercury Marquis/Grand Marquis (some) / 1975/80 Granada/Monarch & 1977/80 Lincoln Versailles (some). All use the Saginaw P/S pump that resembles a canned ham. Saginaw pump also used on all 1975/91 Econolines.
LTD includes Country Sedan/Squire station wagons and Mercury Marquis/Grand Marquis includes Colony Park station wagons. FoMoCo 'downsized' the LTD/Grand Marquis in 1979, Hydro-Boost was not offered. Thought I'd come back and report my findings for the interested. Yes, the seal in question is technically 'a part' of the brake booster...yet it is sandwiched between the booster housing and the master cylinder. So...aside from the so very constructive, 'just buy a new brake booster' advice, if anyone desires to do a cheap and effective vacuum leak fix on their booster, assuming the leak is originating from the front seal, you too can order the part in question from Power Brake Exchange in Miami, FL. (305-635-1120). $3 seal which cost $6 to ship out. You'll need to have the Bendix (or other makes) part number which should be on the seal. Talk to Tim. Saved me $100. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Trans issues? Check the vacuum modulator and the line that goes to it. Check the line for kinks or other problems, make sure it hasn't come off. If the line checks out, take the line off where it connects to the modulator. If trans fluid leaks out, its bad. If no fluid, it still could be bad. They're simple to replace, disconnect the vacuum line, remove one bolt that holds the clamp in place and the modulator comes out. It has an o-ring seal. Modulators are identified by the color of the stripe. Pretty much the "go to" one is the black stripe. If they don't show that one in the catalog, go with the green stripe. Avoid the pink stripe. That one is a dual diaphragm version that has two vacuum line going to it. If by chance you have one of these, replace it with one of the other two and use the vacuum line that goes to direct manifold vacuum, cap the other line. When you pull the modulator out, be careful. There is a pin that goes in the modulator. Sometimes it comes out with the modulator, sometimes it stays in the tranny. If it comes out, don't lose it. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cab and radiator core support bushings D3TZ-1000155-B .. Absorber (rubber cushion) - Lower radiator support and lower front & rear cab mounts / Obsolete CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC = 800-476-9653. PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX = 888-727-0418. GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959. WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- D3TZ-1000396-C .. Absorber (rubber cushion) - Upper radiator support and upper front and rear cab mounts / Obsolete PARTS INTERNATIONAL CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS GREEN SALES CO. WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS ----------------------------------------------- Just an update on current bench stock. "D3TZ-1000155-B.. Absorber (rubber cushion) - Lower radiator support and lower front & rear cab mounts / Obsolete > MUSTANG'S ETC in Van Nuys CA has 1 = 818-787-7634. < > CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETEPARTS in Concord NC has 13 = 800-476-9653. < No one else has any. ------------------------- D3TZ-1000396-C.. Absorber (rubber cushion) - Upper radiator support and upper front and rear cab mounts / Obsolete No one has any. Green Sales Co. doesn't have any. Parts International was purchased by Bob Allen Ford Wesley Obsolete Parts was purchased by a guy who only sells on ebay." ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Dual Horns from a 1992 - 1997 Ford pickup truck or Bronco. Louder than the ol single. |
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Starters & Distributors –if you have a 351M/400 pull off the factory distributor and the factory starter. Why? Because they will bolt on and work perfectly on your new 429/460 engine. If your 429/460 has a points-type distributor (most pre-1975 engines) then you should reuse your Bronco's Duraspark II electronic distributor.
One other neat little item you can use on your 429/460 is a 92-93 7.5L F-Series gear-reduction starter. They are smaller, weigh less, and have more torque than the standard full-size Ford 351M/400/429/460 starters. If you plan to install headers on your Bronco with a 429/460 engine, then the gear-reduction starter will give you a little more room to work with in a cramped engine compartment. You can purchase these starters from most auto parts stores for around $200.00. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you have a cracked door panel don't throw it away, you can easily fix it with Threebond Plastic Repair Kit. It's mostly used by motorcycle guys for repairing cracked fairings, but it works great on door panels. It has super glue and fiberglass cloth and makes the repaired area stronger than new. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The GREEN with RED stripe wire coming from the cab connects to the 'I' input of the regulator. Note that if this truck was originally wired for gauges, the GREEN with RED stripe wire is sourced differently. If that's the case, you should make that clear. The STA stud on the back of the alternator connects to the 'S' input of the regulator. If you have a factory electric-assist choke, the STA stud also branches to that. The 'F' output of the regulator connects directly to the FLD stud on the back of the alternator. The large output terminal of the alternator (sometimes labeled BATT or B+) connects to the battery side of the starter solenoid through a fusible link as well as the 'A' input of the regulator. ----------------------- That tool box is in a 69-71 truck NOT a 73-79, but it might fit? If you can find one. |
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This is for a mid ship tank, 4x4 truck fuel tank support that always rusts out and are about IMPOSSIBLE to find.
Mid ship fuel tank support cradle part # D7TZ9K134A - Reinforcement Assy. And more info in it here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ank-mount.html And mid ship sending unit info D9TZ-9275-A (replaced D7TZ-9275-H & D8TZ-9275-D) .. Fuel Sending Unit-Use w/Mid-Ship Plastic Fuel Tank / Includes float, filter screen and gasket / Obsolete Marked: D8TF-AA, AB, AC, DA; D9TF-AA. Applications: 1977 F250 Regular Cab 4WD from serial number Y20,001 (not a High Boy) / 1978/79 F150/250 4WD Regular Cab / 1979 F350 4WD Regular Cab. D9TZ-9275-A = JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN = 615-443-3086. COLLECTORS AUTO SUPPLY in Oroville WA = 800-414-4462 (only number listed). D7TZ-9275-H = ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX = 817-275-2381. WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293. GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959 / 513-731-3304. D8TZ-9275-D = JST AUTOMOTIVE GREEN SALES CO. WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS D9TZ-9275-A is the correct one for 1979 F350 4wd regular cab midship tank? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 99-03 Power Stroke/Super Duty BACK seats that will work in the front of a 73-79 reg cab. Unless you're pulling from an XL. The newer XLT-King Ranch trucks all have a 2 piece back seat that folds up, so I don't think they'd be able to be put in. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The Warranty Plate has the VIN and misc codes stamped on it. It's located on the left door face below the latch. The white Safety Standard Certification Label was introduced in 1970. It was glued to the B pillar (door post) below the striker plate on trucks. |
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This may seem out of sequence but before taking your truck apart.... ALIGN THE BODY PANELS!
When you're satisfied with gaps and positioning, drill 1/8-inch alignment holes at hood and door hinges, brackets, and at body panel overlaps and flanges. Or sharpie mark them, the door and hood hinges if you are going to pull them. For example, this is the cowl to inner fender bracket and it is adjustable vertically and horizontally. Therefore two holes are required. The same applies to the hood hinges. Insert the drill bits to index the part and bolt it down... it is EXACTLY where it was before removal. If you don't like random holes, the hole(s) can be hidden under the washers. I just dab and wipe a lil black RTV to seal it up. Or before pulling the hood or doors, scribe or sharpie the hood hinge position (all the way around) on the underside of the hood. Pulling the doors, scribe or sharpie the hinge placement on the cab, leave the hinges on the doors. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That jumper wire pic is for the lights when you are working a NSS switch: Just a note, you could make a jumper plug out of the NSS. Cut the switch off the harness and splice the two pairs of wires. I just hate to cut these switches up. New, they're getting pricey. Here's the little jumper in the engine compartment |
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Ford 460 front to rear sump oil pan conversion
I purchased a Ford Racing Engine Swap Oil Pan and a set of Milodon pan bolts for my truck, which has a big dent in the side of it where the front differential hit it. (Previous owner doing jumps). It didn't go exactly to plan. When I pulled the pan, I soon realized that you need a new oil pump. The old siphon tube presses in on the bottom; you need the type with the two bolt flange on the side. So I ordered a Ford racing oil pump as well. (Priority shipping was expensive). I found that the new main bearing stub doesn't have a nut or lock washer (3/8" flange nut), also the kit doesn't come with a gasket for the siphon tube or bolts for that matter. During installation I had to remove a broken bolt, I used a set of Irwin screw extractors which worked great. About an hour into trying to figure out why I couldn't get the four larger(5/16) bolts into the ends of the pan, I pulled it down and found that the new one piece gasket will only accommodate the 1/4" bolts like on the sides, but not the 5/16". I ended up drilling the inserts out with a 5/16 drill bit. Parts needed for conversion: Oil Pan: Ford Racing M-6675-A460 (Summit or Jegs) Oil Pump: Ford Racing M-6600-A460 (Summit or Jegs) Oil Pump to Engine Gasket (Included with Oil Pump) Siphon Tube Gasket: Fel Pro 11792 (Summit, Jegs, any Auto Parts Store) 1 of each - Grade 8 (3/8" - 18 Thread) Black Flange Nut for Main cap bolt (True Value) 2 of each - Grade 8 Black (5/16" - 18 Thread) Flange nut & Lock washers. (True Value) Oil pan bolts: Milodon 85010 (Summit or Jegs) Additional Steps: If your 460 has the 4 larger bolts, 2 at the timing cover, 2 at the rear main cap, You will need to drill the holes in the gasket using a 5/16 drill bit. You have to man handle the new dip stick tube to get it to fit. Review: Although I ran into problems, the overall product is outstanding! The Milodon bolts are a little bit shorter than factory, but they look great against the black Ford racing oil pan. The pump pressure using the Ford High volume oil pump is also great, it is reading on the high side of normal on the gauge. The clearance is outstanding, and I will never attempt to use a four piece gasket with RTV again on an oil pan. You can perform this conversion for around $250, well worth the time and money. Don't forget to buy oil and new filter. AND You will also need a reverse sump oil pickup tube/screen and the special stud (1/2" -13 x 3/8" -16 x 4 11/16") used to mount it to the main bearing cap. Trans and motor mount info: If you have an auto trans and a complete donor car, its pretty easy. To do it on the cheap, get the 460 Lincoln engine AND the torque convertor from the car. Or buy a new convertor that fits that car. Get a pair of 360/390 motor mounts, oblong the two holes on the motor mounts with a chainsaw file or whatever works for you and they bolt on to the 460 block diagonally You will notice that the stud on the 360 mount is not centered so you want that stud toward the back of the 460. If you flip the 360 mount upside down it puts the stud toward the front you want it toward the back. Now you notice the top corner of the 360 mounts are in the way of the exhaust manifolds. You need to put them on a band saw and cut off about an inch or so from the top corner of the 360 mount so it clears the manifold. Cut one mount at a time so you cut the right corner off. Remember the stud needs to be toward the back of the 460 block. If you set your bandsaw up to cut a 45 degrees and you cut one and than the other the same way, one will work and the other won't because you cut the wrong corner off. If you hold them up to the 460 block you will see what I'm talking about. So with the 351M removed, pull the 351m convertor out of the trans and put the 460 convertor into the front of the trans. and put the 460 in the truck. The studs on the 360 mount will drop into the frame perches in the truck and the trans will bolt to the back of the block and the convertor will bolt to the 460 flexplate. Do you have this? D6TZ-6345-A .. Stud-Attaches pickup tube to #3 main bearing cap / 3/8" -16 & 1/2" -13 x 4.60" long. |
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For the dome light wire, hot-at-all-times power comes goes to the headlight switch as a GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire. Dome light power comes back out as a BLACK with BLUE stripe wire. The same color scheme is used at the door jamb switches. BLACK with BLUE stripe runs out to the actual dome light. BLUE with a RED stripe is instrument panel illumination. It comes out of the headlight switch to the fuse box, leaves the fuse box again as the same color and is distributed throughout the dash. There is no ground connection to the dome light switches or the headlight switches. These switches switch power, not ground.
1) Make sure you have 12 volts on both sides of the courtesy lamp fuse. This circuit is hot at all times, so it doesn't make a difference what position the key is in. If you have power on only one side, replace the fuse. If you don't have power on either side, then there is other work to do first. 2) Pull the dome light switches out and remove them. Make sure the terminal for the GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire in the connector has power. 3) Check the dome light switches for continuity. With the plunger all the way out (switch CLOSED), the switch should be shorted. With the plunger pushed all the way in (switch OPEN), the switch should be open. If not, replace the switch. 4) With power to the switch proven to be good, and the switches proven to be good, the dome light should light up. If the dome light does not light up, remove the cover and check for power at the dome light (not the side that's permanently grounded to sheetmetal) with the door OPEN. If you have power here, yet the bulb does not light up, replace the bulb. This will prove out the door-side; if you get to the point that the doors turn the light on but the headlight switch will not, then we can cross that bridge. |
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COMPLETE FRONT CLIP REMOVAL Ok then here goes, this is just what works for me. I am going off memory and am a long way from my truck to go look. This worked on my none a/c 79 4x4 F250 w/standard transmission, more than once, and I used the same technique on a 79 Bronco with a/c and a automatic transmission. Painters tape on the door front edge when opened, and a little more plus the back edge of the fenders to prevent scratches. Disconnect battery and remove. Then drain radiator. Tag and bag each piece of hdwr, or stick it in a large piece of card board and mark it accordingly.
1. Make sure you park the truck where you can get both doors open. Or BEFORE you put it inside a narrow shop....Open each door and remove the one bolt on each side that is right between the hinges. Now put it in the narrow shop...lol. 2. Take a scribe or sharpie and trace a mark around the hood hinge positions on the underside and there the innerfenderwell 3 bolt brackets attach to the firewall or use the drill a hole/drill bit alignment method. This will be helpful come reinstallation/realignment time. Hood removal is really a 2 person job. If you go it alone, be careful, great way to scratch the hood/cowl. If the hood is all the way open, it is front heavy when you remove the bolts. I can’t really explain a 1 man job here, but it looks like a monkey f..in a football. Just get a helping hand for this, or use a engine puller UNDER IT. If the hinges are compressed once removed, be careful as they can pop back up easily and get a finger in the process. So just pull and unhook the spring from one end. 1st disconnect the hood ground on the passenger side and the hood light elec connection, if you have one. Make sure you make note of the stiffener brackets (under the hinges) position, if you have them. Ok hoods off. Or.....leave the hood on and go the heavy route. 3. At the very bottom edge/back side of each fender, is one bolt. 4. Make sure if you have the front fender/front edge to frame, small support bars (some do, some don't) remove them from the frame. I would remove them from the fender side also, just to prevent anything from getting bent. 5. Masking tape tag each electrical connection point on each side of the connection and mark them like (1-1), (2-2) or A-A, B-B and so on. There are 3? Main electrical connections on the dvrs side back by the fire wall, behind the hood hinge. Tape, tag, and disconnect. 6. There is an electrical harness that runs across the back side and above the fire wall on the passenger side and goes to the starter solenoid. Disconnect from solenoid (make sure you know make note, where each elbow plug goes on the starter solenoid.) There is a plug for voltage regulator, and then lay wiring on engine. Disconnect the ground wire from passenger side solenoid to eng block (remove from solenoid side). 7. Look over the area behind the headlights/behind the core support area (each side for 1 small square plug) and the windshield washer tank for a elec plug in the front end of the tank. And the rubber feed line that goes to the T up by the cowl. 8. Top and bottom radiator hoses from back side of radiator. Fold rubber hoses back out of the way and zip tie, so they do not flip back open. Is it a automatic transmission? Disconnect transmission lines from radiator and cap lines. 9. There are these 1” or 2” wide rubber straps (one on each side) on the back side of the metal inner fenderwells that attach to the firewall, disconnect from firewall. 10. Scribe mark where the bracket that support the inner fenderwells (where it attaches to the fire wall). Remove 3 bolts per side. 11. Now if you are lucky here, down on EACH side of the radiator there is one main mount bolt for the radiator core support. Lucky meaning, it will come out and is not all rusty and stuck. But if it is rusty, stuck and or the head is stripped. Time for the sawzall. Red Diablo blades here and carefully cut between the top of the frame rail and the bottom of the core support. These bushings and bolt parts are available. A torch is not a good idea here the rubber bushings will smoke/catch fire like crazy. 12. Have an old tire or some other similar support to set the front clip down on once removed. Put it under the middle of the core support/radiator. So you do not bend the front edge of your fenders. 13. I use 2 other FTE buddies + myself and we just pull the complete front clip off. Make sure the plastic inner fenderwell liners do not get hung up on the shock brackets. As far as by yourself, attach the cherry picker to the middle of the core support, it can be done with a piece of cable, some folks just pull the radiator and use chain. Make sure you triple ck all electrical connections and the core support bushings are free. Lift it up just a bit and ck the fenders, and then lift it up again, just a little. At 1st you are wanting to pull it more forward than up, so that the back edge of the fenders contact the back side of the tires. Like I said, it’s doable, but a PITA as far as a one man show. 2 guys can pull it way easier. I am NOT positive on all the electrical connections, but that is the big stuff. I am sure some FTE members are reading this and will double ck me and chime in with what ever I missed. Or maybe they have a better hood trick? -------------------------------------------------------------- That tool box behind the seat tool is in the back of a 69-71 NOT a 73-79, but I think it might fit? --------------------------------------------------- You have to drill out the bottom frame hole just a bit to get a extension in there to get to the crossmember nuts. --------------------------- Intermittent wiper relay pic, if you are going parts hunting for the swap. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...694fa8d693.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4c8a67179f.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c1112b35f2.jpg |
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SD leaf springs:
The leaf spring bushings are slightly larger than the original hanger, so grinding the bushing down is a reasonable solution. This only has to be done to the front of the spring. For the rear, I replaced the pivot bushings, and used an off the shelf Toyota poly bushing used in 80's era 4x4's. These bushings had to be modified a little to fit, but worked perfectly. By taking a small torch to the old bushings, they popped right out, and left a small metal insert in the pivot itself. I was able to leave this in there and not fight it to remove. This can be tough to remove while the pivot is still in the truck. By taking about 10 thousandths off of the bushing itself, it went in with little trouble. This is almost a perfect fit. Then I lubed up the metal insert, and viola, it is the same width as the spring bushing, and a perfect fit. Front end is done, and everything lines up. Oh, if the leaf is equipped with a military wrap design, it may have to be either cut or removed to fit the smaller hanger of the highboy. Later 78/9 bolt on hangers are larger and fit the military wrap leaf. Longer front shackles will have to be made, and the new length should be right at the 5.75" mark. This will provide enough room for the spring to flex and keep the spring from hitting the frame. This has been a problem I have been working out over time. Quality material and thick steel has to be used here. Too small or thin and the shackle will flex. For the rear, the popular thing to do is the shackle flip. Since this requires the removal of the rear hanger anyway, half of the work is already done. Now since the perfect donor hanger is to use the fixed hanger found at the front of the rear spring, this means that another hanger needs to be installed where this one was removed. Step by step: Remove both hangers, and throw the inverted rear hangers in trash. Purchase, a longer hanger for the front of the rear spring. 1/2 ton, or 2wd hangers are longer and will provide more lift. Make sure that the width is the same as the spring. Chevy hangers can be used here too. Align the 64" rear spring so the axle is centered in the wheel opening. Install the newly purchased hanger in the front of the spring and attach to the frame. Install the original front hanger in the very rear of the spring and hang the shackle from this. Bolt up and verify that all hangers are level. Use a quality fastener here. This will net some pretty serious lift and much will depend on the rear spring that you use. This 64" spring is easy to find in the salvage yard, and will cost way less than new springs. I am telling you, this system works and works well. Not expensive either. My front leafs ran about 500 bucks for the pair, a great friend gave me a set of leafs (thanks again ChaseTruck754) and my hangers ran about 40 bucks from the salvage yard. This clears 40"rubber, and flexes like crazy. Rides well, I mean extremely well, and I still tow a car hauler with a rather large 1 ton truck with this truck. When looking for spring hangers, don’t limit yourself to just this era of ford trucks. They are limited in numbers at the salvage yards and just try to find a new one at a dealership. That being said, you can use a later model spring hanger, the hanger does not care. I suggested that one look into chevy hangers, if you are going to remove the spring from a 2000 plus silverado, grab the front hanger too. Use this on the front of the spring, and then use the factory ford one on the very back of the spring for the shackle flip. This is a very inexpensive way to lift a vehicle and still use the comfort and versatility of the newer spring. I used: Front: 8" BDS front springs from a 99 to 04 "gas" Super Duty Extended my front shackles, they now measure 6 inches from center to center Custom front shock mounts (17" travel front shocks) Stainless braided front brake lines Crossover steering (Dana60F) and power steering conversion using Saginaw 16:1 box U bolt flip Rear: Stock 64" long 3500 series chevy silverado rear leaf 2001 chevy silverado 1500 series front spring hanger mounted lower to provide more lift Stock Ford front spring hanger installed in the very rear to accommodate shackle flip Relocated shock mount to accommodate 14" travel shocks Stainless steel brake line 1. They are quite simple, you will have to follow some of my old threads, or read some of the posts where we have discussed it in great detail. You will have to cut or remove the military wrap leaf to clear the small spring hangers, and you will have to make longer shackles. The SD springs use larger fasteners so you will have to drill the hanger to 18mm or step up to 3/4" bolts. The shackles are going to get drilled anyway, so you can go with the metric stuff or use 9/16" SAE. 2. My set up on the red 74 (now its a 74, as I have since sold the 75. I had two identical trucks a coupe of years ago, and they sort of evolved into one truck) is a BDS 8" front spring pack with 2 leafs removed. Custom shackles to allow for additional travel, custom front shock mounts using 2.25" diameter smooth body shocks, 17" stroke. Rear is a bone stock 3500 series Chevy Silverado leaf pack with zero lift, stock 4 inch block and a shackle flip using stock hangers. That’s it, it clears 39.5" boggers. Unfortunately I do not run bump stops so my fenders take a beating and are always wrinkled. ADVICE#2 Now we are starting to see why alternative lifts are becoming popular. With 10 inches, one could assume that you have a desire to clear 44" rubber right? I only ask because, 10" SD front springs will give you greater than 10 inches of lift over your stock height. You will have to grind the spring eye bushings a little to fit inside of the 75 spring hangers. A few minutes with a flap wheel and an angle grinder will make short work of this. You will also have to make longer shackles for the front springs. If you do not jump the truck, or get overly aggressive, you can get away with a shackle that is 5.25 inches. This will clear the frame, and allow a decent amount of pivot. The shackle angle will increase with the use of the longer SD spring, but this angle is good, and contributes to the better ride quality. At this time, you will probably want to replace the front pivot bushings. I can guarantee that your 30 year old ones are shot. You will want to be aware that this extended shackle does affect "caster" so caution must be used when making this modification. Too long, and the pinion angle gets whacky, and the truck steers very slow. You will have to remove the entire leaf that makes up the "military wrap". This is the second leaf in the pack. The diameter will not fit in the stock hanger. I have run with the entire leaf removed, and have cut the wrapped portion out of the pack. Removing the leaf itself allows for more flex. I have yet to encounter a failure, or bend a main leaf after a removal. I am pretty hard on my vehicles. After this, the spring mounting hardware will have to be addressed. The bushings are a larger diameter, and will require you to drill the hanger to a larger size. You can either drill to 18mm and buy an 18mm bolt for the front, or make the bushing larger to accommodate a 3/4" bolt. Since you are making your own shackles, you can use the stock size upper bolt, and drill the lower to the appropriate size. For the rear, you have many options here, but the best so far, is to ditch the stock leaf all together. You will probably consider a shackle flip, and since you are removing the rear pivot, you might as well remove and replace the front one as well. What I did was remove the front fixed hanger and mounted it to the rear. This creates a new mount for the shackle. For the front fixed mount, I replaced mine with a late Chevy hanger. It was longer and created more lift. These lift figures will vary depending on how you mount it to the frame. The longest hangers can create as much as 6 inches of lift when combined with a shackle flip. Alright, so you have the hangers off completely, and now you have a few options. The best option here is to use a 64" long rear leaf, also from a late model Chevy truck. 2wd, or 4wd this does not matter, and it will fit the shackle, and hanger from your highboy. I used the very end bolt holes as a reference for my new bolt holes. The very outside holes became the inside mounting holes. This required me to drill a bunch of holes for the new 1/2" hardware, but I was confident in axle alignment because I was able to use 4 existing holes. Shackle angle is at 23 degrees, and has a bunch of flex with a 2wd 1500 64" stock leaf. Longer shackles will change this, blah, blah, blah, you get the idea. Feel free to cruise around and see some of the other mods required for this complete modification. Weight capacity is very limited if you use a 1/2 ton rated spring. The fix here is to use a 3/4 ton spring. Lift figures will vary based upon different springs, and which hangers you use. It is very easy to create the 10+ inches of lift with this method of lift, and though it sounds rather complex, it is really pretty easy, as long as you can read a tape measure, and are careful to attach everything with safety in mind. These rather flat springs really flex well, and offer a fantastic ride over the stock units. Because they are flat, they do a pretty good job of controlling the axle, and help to eliminate wheel hop. I can really lay on the throttle, and spin up the rear tires in any condition, and the axle does not hop. It does get a little weird if I lock the brakes up, but this has only happened once or twice. While this combo sounds like a bunch of work, when compared to the amount of work required for a similar modification, the rewards are well worth the effort. Shock lengths become the limiting factor, because the springs at this point are capable of more travel than the shocks can travel when using the stock mounting locations, but for the weekend user, the stock locations will be fine. For a more aggressive user, new mounts that are farther apart will be a benefit. I am still working out the bugs for additional travel, but I am using just about all of the stroke of a 14" front shock. Not bad for such a large truck. Fenders really suffer (Thanks again to Steve / chasetruck754 for all of the fenders I keep crushing, lol), a little because of the additional flex, but this can be eliminated with the use of an aftermarket bump stop. Guess I should state the obvious: brake lines, steering, drive shafts will all have to be addressed. I use 8 inch lift front Super Duty Springs for a 99 to 04 gas truck. 1) Grind SD spring bushings to fit existing spring hangers 2) Drill hanger and shackle to accommodate larger mounting hardware. a) Drill hanger to 18mm or 3/4". If 3/4" is desired, ream bushing as well. 3) Make a new shackle that is longer than stock. 5.25" seems to be alright as long as the shackle bushings in the pivot are new. a) Replace shackle pivot bushings with toyota poly bushings, and you won’t have to remove the steel sleeve within the pivot itself. This is difficult to do. Using the toyota bushing eliminates the need to grind and remove the pivot. (Toyota 4X4 early 80's spring bushings are almost a direct fit.) b) New center bolt can be 9/16" and all new hardware should be used. This will also fit the new spring very well. 4) Some springs will require the removal of the military wrap leaf. This leaf may be too large to fit inside of the front hanger. Removal also increases overall wheel travel. 5) Shackle angle is increased, so verify that the shackle will not strike the frame during suspension cycles. |
This a story about changing from stock exhaust manifolds to fenderwell exit headers. Or if you are just changing stock exhaust manifold gaskets. Truck is a 79 F250 4x4 351M 4 spd.
The #1 thing in my book is to LUBE THE HELL outa those soon to be old exhaust bolts. I would use PB blaster or Sea Foam Deep Creep. If the vehicle is not your daily driver, soak them as much a possible for like a week straight. Use the red tube to get right in there, spray the top side of the bolt head and let it soak. This step is very important because you do not want to break off any of those bolts. I have heard of heating up the bolts with a torch, good way to burn up your valve cover gaskets, and catch fire to your sprayed on lube, I always change them cold. I even heard of starting the truck to heat up those bolts, great way to burn your hands and fingers. Remember LUBE LUBE LUBE, jack up truck to a comfortable working height, take off front tires. And do all the other safety stuff, block rear tires ect.... I start on the passenger side, it’s always easier. Do not try to "snap" torque the bolts loose, use a slow draw break torque. And use a quality socket, as straight on as possible. If you break one, don't panic, you do not have to remove the head to fix this problem, at least I didn't, and I broke 3 on pass side and 2 on dvs side, on 1 truck and 2 and 2 on another. If you do continue removing the rest of the bolts, hopefully with better luck. And then ditch that ol heavy stock factory manifold, do not throw them away those stock suckers are pricy especially the dvs side, why I do not know. If there is any bolt left sticking out of the head after you remove the rest of them and the exhaust manifold maybe you can vice grip it and get it to break loose. Probably not, and you only gouge it up. Some guys say they can weld a nut on there and get it out, those guys are luckier than me. If it’s broke flush with the head, just keep reading. If you do break a bolt, use a GOOD QUALITY set of drill bits to drill it out. Use a center punch to make sure you start in the middle, VERY IMPORTANT. Start with a smaller bit and work your way up to a bigger one. Match your drill bit to your tap size needed for the correct bolt size. 7/16 1/2 or 9/16 can't remember. I would then tap in new threads. As a tech note if you are going to re-tap the hole weld the tap into a old 3/8 drive socket that way you can get in there with a extension and get it tapped right the first time. I WOULD NOT USE A EASY OUT, been there done that, broke it off in the hole, another long story. If you are having trouble tapping in new threads, might be able to use a "helicoil" thread insert, easy to use, buy it in a kit, just have to drill out a bigger hole to insert the thread coil. Debur or run a tap in to clean out the old holes best you can. Get new hardware, grade 8 or better, do not use the hdwr provided (junk) not enough washer face to the header flange. I got mine with a premade large washer, and use the lock washers with the little face to face lock teeth. They are called Norlock fasteners, got them and my bolts from Fastenall, use some thick header gaskets from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, pricy but awesome. Make sure you use anti seize compound on the hardware. DO NOT have any solvent on your hands when you install the gaskets, it will cause a hot spot on the gasket and burn it up. Passenger side inner fenderwell will need a bit of trimming or bend outa the way for now, trim later. 2 people makes this part a lot easier, while you wrestle the header into position, from under the truck, your helper will align the gaskets and start the bolts, all hand tight at first. If you are having trouble getting it in, try taking off the shock tower, 3 bolts ? Might give you more wiggle room, did for me especially on the dvs side. Evenly tighten down bolts, all the while making sure the header doesn't catch on anything. Ck the clearance on the cab mount frame bracket to the collector area, grind the bracket as needed. Use a quality audioable Tq wrench, start at minimum working your way to max. STOP THERE, DRINK ONE BEER, AND GET READY FOR OTHER SIDE. Ok on dvs side, remove dip stick and tube (plug pan to stop oil leak) and brake line coil from master cylinder to frame mounted proportional valve. Cap/plug all opening, brake fluid in the eye is a M...F.... Probably have to remove that brake line clamp plate from back side of shock tower, remember to take the tower outa the way also. Bend/trim inner metal fenderwell and install in same order as passenger side. Reinstall all the other stuff you took off, remember to re-bleed brakes. Make sure nothing is touching your headers, spark plug wires, fuel line ect...I would start the truck with open headers, so you can soak up the fruits of your hard labor. Some smoke is normal from all the lube and the paint burning off YOUR new headers. Let truck idle, blip throttle to scare the neighbors, again make sure nothing is touching the headers. Decide if you are man enough to drive it around the block, let idle till all the smoke quits. Shut off and do a torque ck on those bolts. CAREFULL THE HEADERS ARE HOT! The torque will be different due to the bolts being hot now, do a minimum tq ck. Start in middle and work your out. Decide what exhaust system you want to use, cherry bombs, flowmasters, I prefer straights to stacks. If you are not going to do it yourself, make appt with muffler shop, have fun driving there. Remember you can install a Y-style muffler bypass with cap. I do another cold torque ck then next day. And then again in a day or two after they settle in place from driving/muffler hanging on them. If you used those cool lock washers should have no problems. I know this is long but hope it helps, have fun let us know how it turns out, and throw in a pic. If you own a ½ ton go to this thread 7-24-2010 “My 460 needs to be heard” ½ ton swap with pics. Also see post #52 for a recap on this. |
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use Rustoleum Industrial Aluminum spray paint, comes in a 33% more can. Used less than half can to do inner fenders for around $12 a can, the primer is about $8. It dries really fast, goes on thick, and never gets runs. I used Rustoleum Industrial spray paint for everything. I have painted all kinds of things like the fire walls on a 68 cougar xr7, 1956 ford, 1955 ford Crown Victoria, numerous parts, and a whole van for a friend.
It goes on really good with one coat, lots of coverage, 2nd coat has to be within an hour, or after 48 or something, I just do 1 coat. I tried other spray paint, but this is my favorite, for a rattle can job anyways. It's enamel, so it takes long time to cure. It does dull, and in a year I do expect to see rust coming out again, From Acklands Grainger. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cowl painting advice: Poly is not the same as epoxy. You need to lay down an epoxy primer over the areas of bare metal, let dry, give a light scuff then you can either lay down a poly surfacer ( high build) over the whole truck to fill any imperfections then block smooth and then spray primer sealer over the high build, block smooth then top coat or you can skip the poly surfacer and just go directly to sealer over the epoxy if you think your body work is good enough. Then top coat. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Ever seen a 77 grill on a 78/79 Bronco, it will fit just to be different. ------------------- SD rear seat in a 79 |
Slotted (mags) or turbine/slots aluminium wheel lug nut info. Gorilla Automotive 75187 - Gorilla Lug Nuts
Summit racing • $10.99 Lug Nuts, Shank with Washer, 1/2 in. x 20 RH, Closed End, Chrome Plated Steel, Set of 4 Brand Gorilla Automotive Manufacturer's Part Number 75187 Part Type Lug Nuts Product Line Gorilla Lug Nuts Summit Racing Part Number GOR-75187 Lug Nut Thread Size 1/2-20 RH in. Lug Nut Seat Style Shank Lug Nut Head Style Standard Open End Design No Lug Nut Shank Length (in) 1.000 in. Lug Nut Shank Diameter (in) 0.740 in. Washer Included Yes Washer Shape Centered round Washer Outside Diameter (in) 1.125 in. Lug Nut Material Steel Lug Nut Overall Length (in) 2.000 in. Wrench Size Required (in) 7/8 in. Lug Nut Finish Chrome Quantity Sold as a set of 4. The Gorilla #75187 lug nuts are the correct fit for your aluminum slotted mags. They have the correct 1.000" shank length and .740" shank diameter to properly fit your wheel. Be certain to buy the correct part number, Gorilla also makes the same lug nut in a .750" shank length and .685" shank diameter #73187, while these will "work".. the wheel will not be properly centered. correct: Gorilla 75187 Chrome Duplex Mag Lug Nuts 1 2 in x 20 RH | eBay incorrect: Gorilla 73187 Chrome Std MAG Lug Nuts 1 2 in x 20 RH | eBay You can also buy these locally at most parts stores. |
So you want a make a 2wd into a 4wd....
There is nothing nuts and bolts about a 4wd conversion, there is not a thing that is bolt on or swappable. The engine cross members are entirely different, and this means that if an un molested truck is what you are after, it will be impossible to create one with a 2wd platform. The 2wd will have to be lifted quite a way to clear the front diff. 2wd trucks are coil sprung and most F250 4wd's are leaf sprung. None of the suspension items are even close to the same, so you will be fabricating or modifying some original 4wd stuff to work. Steering systems are entirely different as well, so you will be upgrading that too. My last conversion with leafs ran me several thousand dollars, and that was with the work that I performed for free. The difference in sale values between a 4wd and 2wd are minimal, and the 4wd conversion is hardly justifiable. Well the frames are similar, with a few exceptions. The frame horns are slightly different, and the frame widths aft of the cab are different from 73 to 77 trucks. The frame rise is also slightly different, but this is not a show stopper and does not make much difference one the fabrication begins. Now the important question is whether or not you will be using a coils springs or a leaf spring. It is possible to install a 78/9 radius arm and suspension. Not a big deal really, and with a standard cab this is reasonable. Not quite as easy with a super cab and or crew cab. The 2wd frames are not cut for the shackle pivot, and they do not have the provisions for a spring hanger, but again, this is not a deal breaker. Installing a pivot is just a tedious process, accuracy is key. Ok, so next is the transfer case. You have two choices, install a married case, and this requires the proper transmission. Might find some difficulty making or modifying an output shaft to accommodate the early C6 and a married transfer case. So then the next option is to find a divorced transfer case, and install this. You will have to make up a cross member, but then you will have to get creative with the shifter linkage. See the 4wd trans will have an adapter or tailshaft with a pivot for a typical 205 shifter. Fabrication is the only limiting factor here. Next and final factor will be the speedo. See your speedo works from the trans, so that being the case, you will have to get a speed reference from the t-case. If you do not, the speedo will read twice as fast when you put the case in low range. But you will be in 4 low so who cares how fast you are going. As mentioned the steering box will have to be relocated, and the truck will require some lift. That engine crossmember has limited clearance so you will be looking at some lift to even clear it. The other option would be to remove it and replace it with a tubular unit. |
TRUCK BUILDING INFORMATION.
I suggest that you set a goal and stick to it, I mean that you should create a reasonable goal, and do what you can to achieve it. Not too many fellas are in the 700 hp club, and when I hear this I truly expect 500 real hp's, but let’s talk about that. 500 hp is huge compared to the whopping 120 something you are making now. I’m not ripping on the 351M, errrr, ok, maybe a little. But regardless, this thing made around 150 to 170 Hp's when it was new. A tired old "M" might make the same 30 years later. Add a big honking cam that makes power far higher than the engine is actually capable of reaching, or heads that can’t flow enough air to maximize that aftermarket carb, and you might actually make less than the factory spec. Consider that the engine is tired so it might be making 100 hp, and my original estimate was not accurate. Being an optimist, I as shooting for a high number. You can make 1 HP per cubic inch, or at least make slightly less. Either way, you will have a mill that is still over three times the power house that the 351M ever was. Start with the 460 and never look back. Each time you upgrade you can’t count on the fact that you are one step closer to your goal, the reasonable one. Guess this all boils down to priority. Is it a priority to complete what you have? I mean, it runs right? You decided that the priority was to build enough of a lift to clear tires large enough that your stock engine just won’t be able to turn? Sounds kind of strange when it is put like that right? How about building a bullet proof drivetrain, that can handle anything that you throw at it, and use a reasonable tire? 37's can be a ton of fun in a stock truck with some gears and a locker. Ever drive a 1 ton equipped truck with 1 ton gear, 35 spline axles or even chromo, locker, steep gears and smaller tires like 37's? It’s a blast! Hit it with some power and one may not ever change from this. Once the drivetrain is bullet proof, and you have installed all of the gear that will make it suitable for upgrades, now comes the bullet. See since your drivetrain is bullet proof, you won’t ever worry about breaking it, and all of the money you save will go towards the next goal. No distractions, like broken axles or downtime. What’s next? The engine and trans. Meanwhile you are still wheeling the thing, and you are tearing all sorts of stuff up, but not the drivetrain. So you have some fun wheeling the truck, and you are building a nice engine for it. Upgrades do not have to come right away, just a nice running 460 that will smash that little 351M. All of this is while you are still pimpin 37's. So a little time goes by, and you have a nice bullet for the gun. A fresh 460 with early iron heads, flat tops, timing set, and a nice reasonable cam. Small carb, but that’s all you need right now. Its reliable, starts every time, runs like a champ and making over 350 Hp's easy. That’s about a 300% increase over the old engine. Thought you were tearing it up before, now you are just getting crazy. Time for tires. Since you already have nice 1 ton gear, and a bullet proof set of axles, you have the gears to turn a larger tire, you now set a goal for some lift and some tires that put you in a different category. Lift it and make some mods, but the axles are still working great, engine is as nice as can be, and you are still having a blast. This truck has seen minimal downtime, and you have been rolling it around all over the place. What do we upgrade next? Who knows, because we’ve built a decent drivetrain, and it runs well, but we need some more puppy power, so we head to the speed shop, and up the cam, port some heads, step up the carb and maybe intake. You have already found a used intake on Craigslist, and got it for a song, and look at that, the National Dragster has a guy selling a Demon carb that looks like it has been unmolested, and it is cheap. Kind of see where I am going here? None of us have the pockets to build a fire breather on the first go around, and none of us have hit it out of the park on the first swing, but I am sure that every one of us would have done things a little bit differently, and some wish that we had. Everyone can build a truck in any order they wish, but it seems to me that most build them backwards. They lift it, put some big honking meats under it then struggle with broken parts, and have to limp a sorry engine around to try to turn the things. Backwards I say. Gimme a nice 460, and some 1 tons that won’t break, I’ll throw in a Detroit out back, and Ill wheel it with white wall tires. Probably do as well or better than so many of those other trucks that I see on the trail. Wimpy little engine, no traction devices, we can see this because it is stuck on wet grass. Busted axle or u-joints, Oh….but it has some big ol meats and it looks nice, Can’t get out of its own way, but it looks nice. Cracks me up............ For the reader of this I’m just throwing out some examples and some ideas. Its your rig, and in all honesty, I applaud your efforts. You do have the desire and ability. Keep that up. Don’t lose that. Only one way to gain experience my friend. Only one way. |
Where has it been sitting for 6 years with oil in a pan? If inside, I’d leave that oil in. Oil don't "just go stale", it should last as long sitting in an oil pan of a closed up engine as it does in a can.
I would at least disable the ignition and pull the plugs, and spin her over some with the starter avoiding long spells, just like 5 secs at a time. Do not just pull plugs and leave wires hanging, either ground the spark plug end or the wires or better yet, unplug the ignition module itself. No plugs will let her spin faster and watch the mechanical oil gage. I’d simply start with a full radiator with the proper thermostat in place for a 351M/400 if that's what it is and cap off and keep an eye on it as she warms. No different than when you change coolant every other year or three ... or 5 as the case may be. Reasonably fresh fuel in the tank, watch the carb top for signs of a stuck float though if setting a long time. By the time you spin the motor over without plugs priming the oil pump the carb float bowl will be full .... but there won't be any intake vacuum with plugs out. Just watch the top of the carb vent tube. If gas comes out, gonna have to "unstick" a float or inlet needle. C-6 and it's new and dry, I'm putting at least 8 qts in to start ... before I even prime my engine's oil system with the no plugs routine above ... unless it causes it to come out the dip stick tube which I doubt (total capacity for my C-6 in a '77 F-150 4X4 with 351m/400 is 27 pints or 13.5 quarts). That'll help raise levels in the trans and make sure nothing runs drier than necessary. Then after the priming session, check engine oil level, look for oil filter gasket leak, check and add some trans fluid so it shows on the stick again. Then reinstall plugs, hook up wires and ignition module and if gas ain't sprayed out the carb vents yet ....start her up with a fast idle and as she run and warms up, while watching temp and radiator level and oil pressure and belts and carb vents and watching for leaks and checking oil filter gasket .... I’d be checking and adding more trans fluid as needed running her through the gears after 10 quarts. As you try to make is a daily driver watch for a lot of seals to start leaking and after a little bit of driving ck the valve cover and oil pan hardware torque. Do not over torque the valve covers and bend the lip. |
ranger429 hitting it out of the ball park, with all this info. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6503315
Here are the differences between these models. I also have found out that for the 78/79 Bronco it was available as a Custom or Ranger XLT model only. They did not offer the Ranger package only on the Bronco. Custom: Pretty much your stripped down version although it could have been ordered with just about any individual option you wanted to put on it. A Custom model included: low back bucket seats, vinyl floor mat for the front only, 25 gallon gas tank, manual steering, 4 speed trans with the 351 motor and the 205 case. Exterior features were: hub caps, black painted bumpers and the stainless mirrors. Ranger: Not offered on the Bronco, only available in the F-series lineup. Those upgrades were: The bench seat had a chain mail vinyl seat upholstery, it also included a color matching vinyl floormat, sunvisors, seat back covers in the regular cab model and white headliner with chrome trim. Ranger XLT: The front seat used a combination of cloth and vinyl, insulated woodgrain door panels, carpeted flooring, woodgrain around instrument cluster, passenger dash and the glove box, woodtone on the steering wheel horn button, chrome trim around taillights and halogen headlights. The XLT also got the body side trim. Exterior: Chrome bumpers, chrome molding around the windshield and side windows in the top, chrome molding around the drip rail by door, chrome wheel well lip molding, rear T-gate chrome pieces, and the body side trim. Lariat: Not offered on the Bronco, only available in the F-series lineup. Those upgrades were: Full cloth seat trimmed in super soft vinyl, door trim panels that included padded inserts, map pockets on the lower door, button quilted padded headliner and extra insulation. Options available: These are the only options that I have prices on. Below are some additional options. 400 engine............................................ .....................$165.00 included 12 inch diameter clutch and 53 amp/hr battery Traction lock front axle.............................................. ...$175.00 Traction lock rear axle.............................................. ....$175.00 Automatic trans............................................. .............$197.00 came with oil cooler and 53 amp/hr battery Power steering.......................................... ..................$211.00 Heavy duty suspension........................................ .........$104.50 Forged aluminum wheels............................................ ... $218.30 Forged aluminum polished wheels....................................$304.30 When combined with the free wheeling package................$129.10 White painted styled steel wheels...................................$175.20 when combined with the free wheeling package.................$43.20 Rear seat.............................................. .....................$287.20 Quad front shocks............................................ ............$74.00 Swing away tire carrier Ranger XLT..................................$60.60 Swing away tire carrier Custom.......................................$81.6 0 Skid plates............................................ ......................$123.10 Rear stabilzer bar............................................... ...........$25.00 Tilt steering.......................................... ........................$72.00 Free Wheeling pacakge on a Custom................................$558.45 Free Wheeling Package XLT...........................................$385 .05 Ranger XLT package........................................... ...........$668.90 Additional options: Appearance: Chrome bumpers Wheel well molding Body side trim GT bar with foam padding Grilles. There were 3 different options for the front grille. Black, Silver or Argent with chrome accent. I have seen Black on an XLT and the Argent with chrome on an XLT. I am not sure how they decided what grille to put on what truck. Audio: AM radio AM/FM mono radio (1 speaker in dash) AM/FM stereo (speakers in door panels) AM/digital clock radio 40 channel CB radio with antenna. This was available on all radio options. A simple way to tell if it had a CB originally if all wiring is gone look for an ash tray on the driver side cargo panel. If there is no ash tray it originally had a CB. Comfort/convenience: A/C Comfort vent heater ( I think this was also the HI-LO option) Insulation package Rear floor mat (Custom only) Front captain chairs (available in 79 only) Front bench seat Rear seat Center console ( only available with buckets) Convenience group ( intermittent wipers, map paockets and 12 inch day/night mirror) Lighted visor mirror passenger side only Privacy glass for top sliding windows for top tinted glass all Western mirror, low mount(normal folding style mirror) Recreation mirrors (towing mirrors) GT sport steering wheel with simulated leather wrap ( not available with cruise) Simulated leather wrapped steering wheel Cruise control Light group (ash tray, glovebox, underhood, instrument panel courtesy lights and dome light with map lights) Swing away spare tire carrier ( stock when ordered with (5) 10x15 tires) with vinly tire cover Performance: Quad shocks (gas filled) Handling package (rear sway bar, quad shocks up front and dual gas filled rear shocks) Automatic trans 600 watt engine heater Heavy duty suspension (HD front springs, HD rear springs and front sway bar) Rear sway bar Gauges (oil and amp) 32 gallon gas tank with skid plate Skid plates for 25 gallon tank and T-case Trailer towing package Protection: Tow hooks (front) Locking hood release Exterior protection group. Consists of door edge guards, front bumper guards and front bumper rubber strip. Security lock group. Consisted of locking gas cap, locking hood release, spare tire lock and locking glove box. Free Wheelin: Standard features were: Black bumpers front and rear, Dual black low mount western style mirrors, (5) 15x6 painted steel wheels in either white or chrome yellow with L78x15 raised white letter tires and of course the custom chromatic tape stripe found on the black Bronco. There were also 2 other stripe color combinations, Orange/Tan/Creme or Blue/White/Green. Trailer Special: Now according to my book the 1st year for the Trailer Special was 79. I have seen a few members here that have 78 Trailer Special's. There were 2 categories for the Trailer Special. Light duty trailer towing package: Good for towing up to 2,000lbs. This package included a heavy duty radiator, external oil cooler, seven lead trailer harness, heavy duty turn signal flasher and the Trailer Special emblem on the T-gate. Heavy duty trailer towing package: Good for towing up to 6,000lbs. This package included a heavy duty alternator,heavy duty battery, HD rear shocks, bigger radiator, rear sway bar, swing out recreational mirrors, amp meter, oil pressure gauge, HD front springs, external oil cooler and the Trailer Special emblem on the T-gate. Transfer Cases The T-case on an NP 203 (full time case) will have a shift pattern like this. 4 low lock N 4 high lock The NP 205 (part time case) will have this shift pattern 4 low N 2 high 4 high |
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And here are a few more good ideas from fellow members.
Cab pull with a eng hoist. |
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Bed removal and then some.
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Door panel ideas....
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The steps, elec choke power, passenger side handle (put a bigger 2"x2" piece of metal to reinforce the holes where the mount hdwr is ). After a 6" lift, this is the bracket to drop your e brake cables. Nice job KIKKUP.
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Holy Mackerel, you're not bored are you? :D
My two favorite tutorials right here. How to swap from a '78-'79 grill to an early style: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rill-swap.html How to bleed the notoriously difficult '78-'79 1/2 ton 4X4 power steering box so you have power steering again: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ering-fix.html |
Thanks for those good ones, remember this one?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...body-lift.html Awesome job you did on that one. |
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