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Thanks to the members that originally posted this info.
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Thanks to a couple of FTE folks we have some new diagrams.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...7c9abd5adb.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b24c734ce6.jpg |
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Thanks for the photo of SD in 79
Originally Posted by 77&79F250
(Post 14696883)
use Rustoleum Industrial Aluminum spray paint, comes in a 33% more can. Used less than half can to do inner fenders for around $12 a can, the primer is about $8. It dries really fast, goes on thick, and never gets runs. I used Rustoleum Industrial spray paint for everything. I have painted all kinds of things like the fire walls on a 68 cougar xr7, 1956 ford, 1955 ford Crown Victoria, numerous parts, and a whole van for a friend.
It goes on really good with one coat, lots of coverage, 2nd coat has to be within an hour, or after 48 or something, I just do 1 coat. I tried other spray paint, but this is my favorite, for a rattle can job anyways. It's enamel, so it takes long time to cure. It does dull, and in a year I do expect to see rust coming out again, From Acklands Grainger. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cowl painting advice: Poly is not the same as epoxy. You need to lay down an epoxy primer over the areas of bare metal, let dry, give a light scuff then you can either lay down a poly surfacer ( high build) over the whole truck to fill any imperfections then block smooth and then spray primer sealer over the high build, block smooth then top coat or you can skip the poly surfacer and just go directly to sealer over the epoxy if you think your body work is good enough. Then top coat. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Ever seen a 77 grill on a 78/79 Bronco, it will fit just to be different. ------------------- SD rear seat in a 79 |
This is a ever evolving storage thread, so really the best place to ask your type of question and to get the 73-79 community to see it, is to make your own new thread. 94 seat will fit, take the 79 brackets and put them on the 94 frame.
Take brackets off 78 seat. Put them back in the 78 truck, set the 94 seat on them to get the seat measured and centered off the inside door panels. Roll windows done to make that easier. Then sharpie mark the seat frame and sliders (with L&R and fore/aft marks) and take it back out. Then take the sliders back out, line up your marks, drill, bolt and go. |
Some aftermarket cruise control stuff thanks to LandAndStone. Looks like Dana brand.https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...ual%5B1%5D.pdf
Hit the rotate button to get it easier to read. |
3 Attachment(s)
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4998637347.jpg
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3 Attachment(s)
Thank you dlburch for the OEM maint manual on the 351M/400. And the T18 part.
See PFD attachments. |
A FTE compellation of body panel adjustment talk: Yes 1st off insp the fwd cab mounts to be solid and the core support mounts. They are rubber bushings and the radiator core support lower area can be prone to rust. Especially on the passenger/ single battery side. And insp the top of the fender to bottom of the cowl gaps. And the hoods rubber bumpers, on the underside of the hood.
To get the back of the hood down to line up with the cowl, loosen the 2 very back bolts on the hinge flange where it bolts to the inner fender and then have someone push the hood up standing in front of the truck while you tighten them back down. Not a lot, might take a couple of movements to get it where you want it. Close the hood slow, DON'T SLAM IT, watch the back while it close's. Next, to get the gap the same all the way across you loosen the hood bolts on only the side you want to move, if your closing the gap, tap the back of the hinge arm with your ratchet handle and the hood will move on its own, if you want to widen the gap, loosen the bolts and pull up on the back of the hood and tap the hinge arm on the front side and the hood will slide forward, always close the hood slow after any adjustments to make sure it’s not going hit anywhere. To tighten the front of the hood, theirs 2 bolts on the hood latch that are slotted, you can see the slots if you look, loosen them and tap the latch down, if you go to much the hood wont latch, bring it back up, I have to slam mine hard to latch so the hood down bounce on the corners. Make sure you do not have the hood adjusted to far fwd and it is rubbing on the back of the grill shell every time you open and close it. More advice on the hood: Often the hood sits up above the cowl. To fix this, adjust the hinge where it mounts to the inner fender. Up at the front, and down at the rear. Reverse procedure to raise the rear of the hood. The hinges should be lubed with a good lubricant to operate properly or your alignment wont work no matter how long you play with it. You should be able to almost throw the hood open with the flick of a finger and impress your FTE friends. Or do the hold the latch with one hand and the bang the hood with the other trick. Set everything in the middle, hood hinge to inner fender bolts and the hood bracket bolts. I like to remove the latch at first so I can easily swing the hood open and closed. If the rear of the hood is sticking up when it is closed you actually adjust the hood to open MORE. Either by lifting the front of the bracket or lowering the rear of the bracket. Sometimes both in combination. The center bolt acts as a pivot. Once that is done, and it can take a while to get everything nice and the gaps decent you then set the latch height. If the hood is maxed out forward and is still interfering with the cowl you'll then need to loosen the inner fender to firewall horn bolts, inner fender bolt and radiator core support and move everything forward. If you're hood is high compared to the cowl loosen the middle bolt and the rear bolt, then open the hood and it will push (rotate) the hinge down and towards the cowl. Look for the clean marks that the bolt head will leave behind for reference. Remember the hood latch it self has the ability to be vertically adjusted. Now for the front clip: If you're starting from scratch or close to scratch: Front clip is off or sitting loose. Check or redo cab mounts to make sure they are good, then you can go ahead with the rest. After cab mounts you will check that your door hinges have no play. Check for worn hinge pins and replace them 1st. Now you can adjust your door gap to the cab as the adjustment is in the door hinge.For making the vertical door edge gap consistent between rear-of-door-and-pillar AND horizontal gap of top-of-door-to-roof-of-cab, the fender has to be off so the door hinge bolts going into the cab are accessible (because the fender blocks them otherwise) and can be loosened, so the door can be moved rearward or forward as well as up and down, to gain consistent gap all around while trying to keep the door cove lower than the outer cowl, so that the fender cove will line up to it later. When this gap is set and that set of hinge bolts tightened, then you can set inner fenders between cab and radiator support, leaving inner fender bolts loose, then you can set outer fenders on to line up rad support and cowl mounts, and see how the gap looks between the fender and door, this is where a lot of adjusting can happen of the 4 fenders and rad support and adding washers between rad support and body bushing mount, and maybe bending that middle fender bolt tab by front of door to ease line up. The door doesn't move forward, rearward, or up and down, at this point as that's adjusted already. What the door can do now is be moved away from cab or be tucked closer to the cab with the door striker and door hinge bolts that are bolted into the door, so mark your vertical position to keep that while you adjust on the door hinge in or out to be flush with rear-of-door-to-cab, and front-of-door-to-fender, while also bring both inner/outer fender to where they need to be vertically, horizontally, and flush. You don't need spacers between door hinges and cab, or between door hinges and door, there is enough adjustment built in to it already to get door to line up. (unless you're dealing with daily driver and don't want to loosen fender, then go ahead and redneck away lol). And if you are going to loosen the door latch striker, sharpie mark it 1st. |
73-79 Ford truck parts and illustrations catalog download.
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Master Parts and Accessories Catalog on PDF. NOTE : The links are to PDF files that can be up to 400 megabytes in file size. The files may take up to 5 minutes to open/download.
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
(Post 21085084)
You don't need spacers between door hinges and cab, or between door hinges and door, there is enough adjustment built in to it already to get door to line up. (unless you're dealing with daily driver and don't want to loosen fender, then go ahead and redneck away lol). And if you are going to loosen the door latch striker, sharpie mark it 1st.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...bbbf0c7ac.jpeg |
Thank you for the info, I love it when I learn something new Ford truck related. I have took a ton of Ford truck doors off and have NEVER seen shims. So I stand corrected.
I am going to save this info and give you the credit, and then clean up this post. I try to keep this thread as a "info only thread" and not get a bunch of back and forth discussions going. Thanks again. |
Here is the FREE to download owners manual. Download it, read it and get to know your "over 40" year old truck. YES you can brighten and dim the dash lights AND YES you can turn on the dome light with the doors closed. All with one headlight switch knob. AMAZING....
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9Y...J_jpVdqy9XQf6A |
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