What if instead of trying to flatten the bottom "bump" which would cause distortion, you use the Dremel to remove the bump. Then the choke plate could be pulled upwards and maybe some space aged epoxy type adhesive could be use to "rebuild" the "bump" once it is placed back into position.

I've seen how Holley works and would believe that they stamp those two ridges right through the barrels of the carb.

There is no straight shot through the body for the ridge that is centered.

You could always tack weld it.

I don't trust even a steel filled epoxy like JB in the bore of a carb.

Brazing would add too much heat.

I'm thinking the top bumps would be the ones to take out as they are smaller and being in different areas might not warp the butterfly as much. But, both the top and bottom bumps are right against the shaft, so I'm doubting that I could get enough out to get it to slide through the slot. Right now there's absolutely no slop, meaning the slot is no bigger than the thickness of the butterfly, which is .045" and the bump measures .035".

Given that, I'm leaning to slotting the end of the shaft. Turns out the cutoff wheel for the Dremel is .042" thick. So if I put the shaft in the vise on the mill and figure out how to attach the Dremel to the spindle I could slit the shaft pretty accurately. And, I think the butterfly would keep the shaft out to full width, although I could put a shim between the halves just before they go into the housing on the far side.

What'cha think?

I think if there is any 'edge' on the shaft where it passes through the horn it will eat the pot metal for breakfast.

WHY go through all this unless you have absolutely nothing else to do?

Heat the little bumps red and smack them back down against a press block.
Bada bing! done.

Actually, it didn't even take heat. I was chucking it in the mill's vise and hit the lower bump. Hmmmm. Wonder what the mill's vise will do. Didn't have to tighten it any tighter than my instructor taught me to tighten the vise and when I got done a light rap with a plastic mallet took it right out.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4385f285e3.jpg



For the return trip I'm wondering about just screwing it in. Holley did it on this old spreadbore body I have, so I could just pull the screws and use them on this one. But, I just slid it back into the shaft and once it is in it isn't going anywhere. It can't come out, but maybe just a bit of blue Locktite?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...96da63ed80.jpg

Almost done but it is now time to go get the other carbs. Got the shaft center-drilled and then drilled and tapped for 8-32. Here's where I stopped - have to cut the screw down a bit. The arm is sitting on the shaft down against the shoulder, so it will have plenty of leverage.


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Gary, first, the delamination could be caused by excessive amounts of alcohol in the fuel, salt water exposure or any of a number of things. The castings on the older Holleys are pot metal, a zinc alloy, Quadrajets and the upper parts of the Rochester 2 barrels, Stromberg and some Carter carbs are made of it.

On the choke, the engineer in you over thought it again. It simply snaps up through the shaft so the shaft can be removed. On the assembly line, they are simply pressed in place.

Holley fuel lines, there are 4 different lengths, 4160 is the shortest, 4150 is the next length, about 1/2" longer due to the second metering block, then the spread bore with a secondary metering body and finally the spread bore with a metering block. The largest Holly I have seen with a transfer tube is the special one made for the 383 and 440 Magnum Chrysler engines, it was a 750 cfm (allegedly) had normal size primaries and larger secondaries. The Spreadbore came in an 850 cfm version, but I think all of them were dual inlet.

Ford used a special primary bowl on the 390 GT and 428CJ engines, it had single inlet with a filter and a 1/4" transfer from the right side of the primary bowl to the right side of the secondary bowl. Then there was the R-3259 and R-3259-1, they had the NASCAR bowls and a rubber compression sealed 5/16" transfer tube that curved up to almost touch the air filter.

Is there anything Gary isn't overthinking??? ;)

Bill, thanks for the walk thru history on Holley performance carbs on Fords. I remember all of them. I have one of the 715cfm carbs with the early type
center inlet bowls " the old NASCAR types" that I bought some years ago for
my 289 HiPo 1966 Mustang. A change of plans though I will probably use
a vintage 3/2bbl setup that I have which has 3 Holley 2300 2bbls on it.

I have never had experience with the spread bore Holleys and didn't know about
the extra length tubes. I have only used and worked on 4150/4150 Holleys.

What? Me an engineer? Overthink? :-down Yup, that would be me. Would have saved a lot of time if i'd have known to pop the butterfly out and pull the shaft. Oh well, I got there.

As for the Holley carb on the 383 Magnums, I was going to say they were pretty stock units, but I just remembered I didn't have one. In '68 the Magnum engines ran Holleys, surely the ones you mentioned, and the base 4bbl engines, like the 330 HP 383, got an AFB. But in '69 it was reversed, with the Magnum engines getting AFB's and the base engines getting Holleys. I had a Super Bee, but it was a lesser Bee as it came with the base engine and a Holley - my very first Holley and the reason I love them so. ;)

Now, here's the Holley I brought home. It says 3310-2, which should be a 4160 w/a metering plate, but it has jets in the secondaries like a 4150. The guy, who turned out to be from my hometown in Kansas, said he had a pair of them on a high-rise on a 454 in a jet boat. So, with two feeding a 454, wouldn't they be jetted a bit leaner than a single carb on there? Maybe just right for a smaller engine? Dunno what the guy has, but.....


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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e8ab88f2e3.jpg

Perhaps, his family? ;)

Lol! David is the only one of "this family" that knows how much change my personal family is going through at present. It is too early to tell what all that is, but let's just say the next few months will be busy, fun, and interesting. And probably won't have as much FTE'ing as normal for me. More re that when the time comes.

Gary, FWIW, my memory from being a Holley distributor was the 3310-2 was the addition of the Ford kickdown linkage, it wasn't till the 3310-3 it became a 4160. Trivia note: R-3310 was for the 375/425 HP 396 Chevy. The dual HP rating was "official" 375 HP, "actual" 425 HP.

Bill - Didn't know that Holley made distributors. }>

Seriously though, I'll have to look this one over to see what linkage it has. Are you saying a 3310-2 became a 4160 when the 3310-3 came out? If so, maybe this was made prior to that.

Yes, all the manufacturers played games with the ratings. The base 4bbl 383 was rated at 330 HP. But they added a high lift cam, larger exhaust manifolds, and a bigger carb and got 5 more HP. Yeah, right.

So, while I have you, how would this carb have been jetted if two were used on a tunnel ram on a 454 in a boat? Leaner that a single carb? I've asked the guy that wants to swap what it is going on as he wants it to bolt on and go, and I doubt that's possible. If nothing else there will be linkage problems.

Have some updates on the Holley carb I got yesterday. Basically, it is good. However, it has apparently had a significant vacuum leak literally forever. Here's a shot of the side of the "new" Holley, the 3310-2, with 4 things to note:

1. Yellow oval: This shows that the carb was initially set up for a manual choke.
2. Yellow circle: This is the vacuum port for the e-choke, and it is open all of the way to manifold vacuum, creating a significant leak. It appears to never have been plugged. :-hair
3. Red circle: This shows the fast idle screw, which hits the e-choke housing from the other carb. Fortunately the throttle body from the flaking carb fits right on and misses the choke housing. In fact, it is in better shape than the one that came on the carb as that one has some rust.
4. Red arrow: The hole for the choke shaft on this carb is .255" while the one on the flaky carb is .325" I guess I'll bore it out, but that'll leave a rather narrow support on the outside, although the web of the air horn provides plenty of support.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1680b4e0da.jpg


Also, I'd asked if this carb might have been jetted a bit lean since it was one of two on a 454. However, it doesn't appear so. The flakey carb was jetted 73/81, and the "new" carb is jetted 78/85. I'm thinking I'll set it up with the 73/81 jetting - unless someone (Bill?) has a suggestion on where to start jetting for my 400. I'm not sure the guy is going to come through with the swap for the Summit carb, so I'll set this one up for the 400 and see if the machine shop will dyno with both the Street Demon and Holley.