Type of adaptor I was refering to in previous post.

thanks for that picture corey - and excellent use of screencapture and picture posting from your phone!

that picture shows that if i pour oil in the pick up tube, its just going to run through the oil cooler and come out the filter adapter!

but, i could pour oil into the filter adapter and maybe get somewhere that way.

or maybe i'll just forget about it and pull the gp's for the first cranks of the engine as has been suggested :-)

Lol, that might be easier than all this fancy footwork...

Lol, that might be easier than all this fancy footwork...
If you took the GPs out at least you could spritz the bores w your favorite antifriction juice.. Tho, I know the bottom end is your primary concern.. FWIW, when I was shoreside rebuilding high speed natural gas and marine engines we would often have several builds coinciding; often we'd fit major components then the assembly would sit for weeks or months prior to rolling them over for the first time. We used a Goodson product cut w 15/40 conventional Rotella. I know this doesn't help you now but maybe in the future...

thanks corey - i'll be sure to look into that for my next build - which will surely be a full engine tear down. ...and even SLOWER reassembly!

No prob.. Looking forward to a start up video!

Got a little done on the engine Tuesday night, basically all the stuff that required the grey RTV from ford: intake plenums, HPOP bolt cover and oil pan.

The plenums look and fit good, but I didn’t get pictures of them yet. thought people might interested in the oil pan gasket. The instructions say to use silicone caulk above and below the gasket on the corners still, so I used the grey RTV since I had it out (and its better then silicone). I was a little leary during the install that it would seal well, but the gasket really compresses down and seems to make a good seal everywhere including the corners.

Here it is installed. I kind of don’t like the blue line on my otherwise-monochrome engine, but what are you going to do? Nothing!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b5cbc6a92f.jpg

And here is the rear view showing the corners. One important point here though that wasn’t mentioned in the instructions with the gasket – I had to grinder the starter-mount/transmission spacer to make the oil pan fit in with the added height of the gasket. Not much grinding, but it WOULD NOT go without it. it took longer to mask off the bottom of the engine to prevent chips in the rotating assembly than it did to grind and install the pan! The studs are a nice touch though and help align everything during install.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e3d98d715c.jpg

Don't forget to use the grey goop when installing the harmonic balancer.

Back when I was at the machine shop on a regular basis, iirc our procedure was to use the goop on both sides and take an initial light torque then come back later and make the final that way you wouldn't push the gasket.. Orrrrr, we'd use Hi Tack on both sides applied to the metal first, let it get tacky then set the gasket and torque once. Course that was on cork gaskets..
Jp, I forgot to ask, did you port match the manifolds with the block?

I would have! where does it go!?!?

i was wondering about that seal, though - it looks like the melling pump i installed has a new seal in it. the dorman balance i have definitely does not. and my old (unbalanced) balancer looks like it pulled the old seal at least have with it. do i goop up the machined surface that mates with the seal on the oil pump?

i suppose i could read the manual!

...ok, read the manual - here's the section:



Assemble Driver Handle T80T-4000-W to Damper Wear Ring Replacer T94T-6379-AH2. Insert crankshaft damper wear ring into Damper Wear Ring Replacer T94T-6379-AH2 and position tool assembly onto crankshaft vibration damper as shown. Use ballpeen hammer to seat crankshaft damper wear ring into hub of crankshaft vibration damper (apply Loctite® 271 to inside diameter of wear sleeve to prevent oil migration).

NOTE: A new crankshaft damper wear ring should be installed whenever the crankshaft vibration damper is removed. Refer to Oil Seal, Crankshaft — Front in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.

NOTE: Apply RTV sealant to the crankshaft keyway prior to crankshaft vibration damper installation.

Install the crankshaft vibration damper using Driver/Puller Screw T79T-6316-A1 (Part of T79T-6316-A), Driver Sleeve T79T-6316-A4 (Part of T79T-6316-A) and Thread Adapter (Part of T94T-6379-AH3).



now i have to go and make sure this Dorman balancer has a "wear ring" in it. i would hope it would, but who knows...

anyway, it looks like the grey goop goes over the woodruff key (and probably the whole crank end for good measure), huh?

yeah, i was thinknig of something like that, but these instructions didnt even mention a torque spec. so i just snugged them all up until i got some gasket squish, but not too much...

as for port-matching - since i don't know what that is, i probably didnt. can you explain? i never took the heads off the block, though if that matters...

Well I use the term torque loosely, I should have said "take up"..

Basically port matching is making the exhaust manifold hole and the exhaust port hole in the head match for improved flow. Sometimes they'll be a step in one direction or the other, doesn't matter as much if your stepping down into the exhaust but stepping up in no good. Along with port matching is plain Ol porting too which you'll use various die grinders to do; then there's polishing which goes hand in hand with porting.. Hence the term "ported and polished"... All this is in an effort to optimize sometimes both the intake and exhaust ports.. Kinda weird to explain.. Or I suck at explaining...

i think i get it, but no i didnt do any fancy grinding. and it doesnt really apply to our intake plenums right? as they are plenums and not manifolds, so there is nothing to match up. just a two big rectangular holes to mate.

as for the exhaust side, there was a nice soot ring on the head when i took the manifolds off, so the ports on the head were smaller than the manifold ports. i didnt grind the manifolds as i'd be afraid to get chips down on the valve and into the cylinder since i wasnt taking them off...

about my harmonic damper wear ring question above - anyone got any input. i did some searching and it seems a wear ring does not necessarily come with a new damper, but i can't seem to find where to buy one...

ok, i guess this is what i need:

1996 Ford F-250 Crankshaft Front Oil Seal | FordParts.com

$24 aint bad, though i don't believe i need the seal, just the sleeve. oh well.

Hmm. My pump came with the seal installed and a new wear ring. The goop goes between the crank and the damper. Put it inside the damper so it makes a good seal otherwise oil will come it the front of the damper

Hmm indeed. Mine def did not. I got the melling high volume pump from Clay at Riff Raff. It has a seal installed but def no ring in the box. Guess I'm buying that seal just to get a ring. Kind of sucks but I guess I'm stuck.

Since the manual says to use a new wear ring any time you remove the damper, it you'd think all new oil pumps would come with one. Especially the higher end ones...