No backfires at all, never backfired since I have owned the truck, nearly 10 years.

The arm is loose but not real loose, I can touch the under side of the arm and move it up with no pressure at all really, could actually be to loose.

I am uploading another video of the pump arm now

when i rebuilt the carb, I found no ball in it at all, the acc pump has a rubber thing that looks like a large rubber thumb tack, no ball.

The rebuild kit I bought did have 2 balls in the package, one smaller than the other. But from what I understand, the rubber thumb tack thing is the replacement for the balls, not sure.

I am not by any means a mechanic, But in most cases I can find and fix a problem when I hear it or drive it. I just kind of learn as I go, most from watching my father when I was young. The rebuild of this carb was the first time I had attempted this. I did a lot of research on my carb for weeks b4 I did the job.

I took my time and didn't rush any part of the rebuild. I mentioned b4 that the reason for the rebuild in the first place was about 6 or so weeks ago, drove it to work, ran fine, no problems at all, drove it on my break and was fine, got off work few hours later and started the truck and instantly noticed a rough idle, gave it a bit of pedal a few times to see if it would clear up, didn't, I put it into reverse and it died. Started back up just fine but with bad idle again, held my foot on the gas raising the rpm up about 200 more rpms and was able to back up, kept foot on gas and put in drive and drove home without taking my foot off the gas, when I came to a red light I would put into N as I slowed down, ready to go i would give pedal and then shift to drive.


Anyway, once home I figured Id spray some carb cleaner and try to clear it up but didn't work. Did some reading online and came to the conclusion the carb was clogged and decided to rebuild it.

After the rebuild the engine wont stay running without help (cloth or constant pumping the throttle), it will start when cold, but as choke opens it dies out. Idle is still much high than it should be during this time, but not dangerously higher.

Added new fuel pump, with not changes.

can the problem I had to start with, be just a smaller part of the problem I am having now? are they related or of no relation at all.

I just don't know enough about carbs to understand this. My father looked at it and could only scratch his head, tho I have seen him rebuild hundreds of carbs, he said everything looks like it should look.

LOL, I feel like its a simple problem, something small Ive overlooked. And I know when we figure this out I am going to have my head hung low for weeks. Thanks for sticking with me this long guys, I just hope you stay patient with my lack of knowledge.

I think you may have two problems - the one that caused it to run rough/poorly and then something you introduced when rebuilding the carb.

On the original problem, is there any chance the distributor moved and changed the timing? Or, is it remotely possible that the ECU suddenly decided to put the timing in limp-home mode? That would cause it to lose power for sure. (I would have thought the ECU was already madder than a wet hen so the timing was already locked, but we shouldn't assume anything.)

Also, is it possible this is one of the Holley's with left-hand threaded idle screws? IIRC some of the carbs were that way and you turned the screws clockwise to enrichen the mix.

As far as the distributor goes, I dont know if it could have got knocked out, bit I did use a red sharpie and mark the distributor as well as the base it set on, then loosened the one bolt that holds it just a little.

I turned the distributor a little to the right, and then back, but it stopped right where it had been tightened to start with.

Should it be able to turn both ways freely? someone mentioned it could be locked, is that what was meant?

I didnt turn it muck to the right (clockwise) b4 i turned it back, maybe 1/8th of a turn, so im not sure if it will go any further than that..

Where is the ecu located? and can it be checked in anyway?

I am not sure about the left handed thing, I only know that turning them clockwise will allow them to seat all in.

I disagree with you guys. I don't think it's running rich. I think it's running lean. You can watch the video, and each time he blips the throttle it tries to run a little better. Each time he blips the throttle he is introducing more fuel by squirting it in with the accel pump.

This also goes along with putting rags in the secondaries, and making it run. The secondaries are contributing to the idle air, and getting rid of this air is making the lean condition less pronounced.

The question is: Is the problem of too much air actually from the secondaries, or from somewhere else. I tend to think it's a problem from somewhere else. If too much air goes through the carb, it usually introduces more fuel at the same time. A vacuum leak somewhere else will introduce air, and that's all.

You have plugged all the vacuum lines. So no vacuum components are faulty. I would suspect the carb adapter. I would take the carb and the carb adapter off and study them closely. There may be a gap somewhere. I hope you are not using one of those tall squishy gaskets any where under the carb or the adapter. The tend to warp adapters and carb bases if they are tightened too much.

Ford had at least two places for the ECU - under the driver's seat in the early models and in the dash later. But I'm not sure yours had one. In fact, I've forgotten what you have and am too lazy to go look at the first page. Please put the pertinent info in your signature so I don't have to look.

As for the dizzy, you should be able to turn it a long ways either way if the lock bolt is loose. It would only be limited by the wires.

Dave - I can buy into that theory. In fact, I have several times in this saga, and then back the other way. So, I'm confused and think I'll sit out again.

OK, I can surly remove the carb and adapter, the plate under is about 3/4 to 1 inch thick im guessing cast aluminum. the gasket under this plate and on the intake is maybe 1/16 inch thick like paper wire mess. I would be happy to pull it apart and take some picks. give me a few mins. Thanks

This thread has bounced all over the place with no though or direction given to proper diagnosis.

Dave, there may well be a vacuum leak, but I thought Kyre had sprayed all about the base/adapter/intake ports???

That it is hacked, without a proper DSII setup only makes diagnosis more difficult.

One step in the right direction would be a harness -or dare I say it- a HEI dizzy.
Another would be a proper 4V manifold for this carb.
New gaskets and known torque would almost eliminate the possibility of an internal leak.

LOL I understand, 1985 F150 2wd 302 holley 80457


But yeah, on the distributor, it will only turn in one direction, is this a sign of a problem?

Where is your timing set now?

Do you have the spout plug out?

indeed I have sprayed all around, but I am not above double checking things or even triple lol.


I am going to rent a torque wrench from advance auto today, so I will repost on that for sure.

4v manifold is not within my budget right now or I would have def got that taken care of, but will in the future.

Thanks

Dunno 'bout a problem if the dizzy only goes in one direction, but I don't know why it wouldn't unless the bolt is too tight or it is all gunked up.

Having said that, I suggest we nominate one guy as point on this so we don't wander all over the place. And, it shouldn't be me. Both Dave and Jim are more than qualified, but Jim's been more involved - at least of late. However, it isn't my thread nor problem. Up to you how to go forward Kyre.

I don't know if Kyre sprayed carb cleaner around the base/carb/intake ports.

also when we can see readings from vacuum gauge and fuel pressure then we can know much better what is happening

as for if the engine is running lean or rich....... the way to test that is easy
introduce a vacuum leak and observe if the vacuum gauge goes up or down...
spray carb cleaner into throttle and observe if the vacuum gauge goes up or down...