91 crewcab with SD running gear. Frame off resto build.
 

Getting ready to do a frame off resto on my 91 2wd f350 crewcab SRW.

Truck is an occasional summer daily driver and main winter rig. And general truck purposes.

Already have :
05 dana 60 front clip with dually hubs.
divorced ford np205
steering box and all suspension + stock steering bits.

Need:
A matching super duty 3.73 LSD pickup dually width rear end.
Hydroboost braking unit
front DS



Got on this idea of running same offset singles all around on a dually with axles.
Then got the idea of running H1 24bolt wheels on Goodyear MTR.
I would need to recenter them with 8x170 centers, however I am thinking with the dually width axles, I would like to maintain stock -7 backspace. Would clear everything, have decent bearing life, and give the truck a wider track width without having high negative offset wheels.
OR since I would like to use the fully stock H1 wheel, use an adapter-and using the dually hubs, my total offset would'nt be too bad?

I hear the MTRs have good snow traction and highway longevity-two things which are important to me.

Not running beadlocks as I dont plan on wheeling this thing through trails.
Basically looking for a good performing and low cost wheel setup from scratch-recommendations?Also I have the fantasy of totally eliminating the inner wheel arch in the pickup bed.
Wondering what offset wheel do I need to achieve this using the dually axle.

As for clearing 35s or 37s: I dont mind cutting up the front fenders, but I do want it to be functional and not look silly. Do I need to lift the front higher than a stock SD coil sprung front end would offer me bolted to my bricknose frame?
Rear would be getting Skys 6" rear spring drop bracket, to eliminate lift blocks, just shim the end to have good pinion angle.


I will have alot of questions along the way so bear with me please.
Truck body is getting painted with CAT dawn grey paint, rest of chassis in medium black.
Powered by a 250 horse turbo IDI ZF5 div-NP205.

Im subbed!

Pics of the NP205 and 05 front clip. going to order new spring buckets.
Right costs 87, left 30. Conveniently it is the right that is rotted out. Might as well spend 30 more bucks and not have to deal with drilling out 8 rivets.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psq2sbn8mr.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psuw6x5oqi.jpg

Looks like ill be in almost 500 more for wheels though, because I need to get the 4 whummer wheels recentered to an 8x170 bolt pattern. $1500 for wheels and 37" 90% tires aint too bad but...still alot..well see what i can dig up locally in the mean time. 37s for sure as these trucks just look RIGHT with that size.

Everyone gets the hummer wheels with a high negative offset built..i want stock offset, (9" wheel with -7 backspace), they will sit nicely on my dually hiubs. Havent dont any real measurements yet though.


Ordered a gallon of high gloss black enamel from Caterpillar (if its good enough for a 12' bulldozer blade its good enough for my frame),
will be painting the chassis in the black colour, getting it on nice and thick.
Also ordered a gallon of Dawn Grey which is kind of like machine/floor/navy ship grey in medium gloss. This is for the body panels,engine and wheels.
Real simple. Real durable.

Hunting for a turbo kit and rear end currently.

Wondeirng if I can use the 05 steering box on my frame? My box is shot would be nice if i could reuse this one.

Im really split (no pun intended) between the hummer 24 bolt wheels and a traditional 16" wheel..i dunno!
can get normal sizes with wheels for liek 4-500, or hummer setup will be 1400-1600 bucks..

Just remember, the 05+ duallys are NOT 8 on 170mm, they are 8 on 200mm and need 17" wheels

Good luck finding ANY wheel in 8 on 200mm Single wheel

thanks Brad, didnt know this.
So, im in a bit of a pickle with the front being 8x200.

Aparantly I can take off the front dually adapters, and bolt on a 8x170 to 8x6.5 adapter, is this correct? The coarse thread bolts that hold the dually adapter on at 8x170?
If so then i will probably do that, and find a 99-04 3.73 rear end to match the front. But the fornt still has big brakes that wont clear a 16" rim unless i grind the caliper a bit or I have the rim spaced far enough as to where it wont hit the caliper..

Plan was to run dually front and rear, then I can run stock offset hummer wheels, which would give good poke without a crazy offset.

Now im all confused. Maybe trailworthy fab can make me 8x200 centers...but then need a dana 80 8x200 rear end too.

This is all getting very costly.

I THINK the inner pattern is 8 on 170 but not 100%

So yes, you could do away with the dually hubs and go with a 8 on 6.5 adapter

Id have to press out the course studs and put in fine thread studs then no? Or is it easier to swap the hubs?

Need pics man!!!!!!

only pics i have are the ones i posted, just getting started by collecting parts.

However might be picking up a complete running 93 f350 this week for 1000 bucks to swap the stuff over to mine (or my body on its frame). Not as exciting as the coil sprung stuff but...with a full donor truck seems much easier and cheaper. Would still take it down to nothing and rebuild it from scratch regardless which route I take.
If i run teh leaf stuff id do a 3" front shackle reversal and the 6" rear drop mounts, and eliminate the 4" factory lift block.
Seems like a quicker way to get my hummer wheel and tire fetish satisfied.

May not be concern any longer, but I believe you can use the Superduty steering boxes on the older frames. copied this off of Powerstroke nation. Guy put a 2005 axle on air bags in a 96 or 97. He used the 2005 box if I remember right.

"Still working on steering box first one is a 97 f250 (original truck had lift so pitman arm doesn't work and needs to be reamed out), second is 2002 superduty (fits perfectly but needs pitman reamed out) third is a 2005 which has pitman arm that fits but has bigger bolts on box housing.http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/...1&d=1393032426"

that is definitly great news, as I have the complete front clip, and my current box is shot so using this one would be great!

Im definitly curious to see how the 37s will fit under the front of the truck with this suspension. I know my truck is lighter than current super duties so they springs shouldnt compress as much, and I dont mind modifying my fenders. Just dont want any rubbing issues on hard parts is all.
If it will all work with factory ride height that is great as it saves me a ton of money and time.
We shall see!

current issue is the bolt pattern. The SRW and DRW front brake rotors have same measurements on rock auto, however the dually adapter is bolted to the hub using coarse thread lugs.

Can i simply unbolt the dually adapter, and bolt on a 8x170 wheel that uses those special flat nuts with built in washer??

Is there any advantage to using a Super Duty steering box? I'm not familiar with the differences between the OBS and SD units.

Duno but it doesnt leak like mine and is ****ing huge and heavy. Close to 50 lbs id say.

Was a good day. Took the dually extenders off and measured 8x170 with 125mm hub bore.
The hub has M14x2 wheel studs with 36mm of thread engagement.
At the fattest part of the caliper-just before the banjo fitting, the OD at this point is 16" +/- 0.25".

Need to get exact measurement of the inside of the H1 24 bolt wheel to confirm the max amount of backspacing permissible without any clearance issues.

So the SRW 07 rear end Im picking up will have the 8x170 bolt pattern as well and my front widths should be pretty much the same-just like on a stock 05 SD. Will be getting the wheels built unless i can find some used as ive seen on Pirate before. Wheels are last thing I need so for now just gathering more parts.

Funny, the right side coil bucket is rotted out compared to he left side on the 05 frame I have. Coincidentally the roight coil bucket costs about 90 bucks while the left one which is fine, costs 30...Supply and demand eh Ford??

My final thoughts and questionsto run my desired 24 bolt H1 wheel.
-I ot 8x170 bolt pattern. I got 5.1" between SRW WMS and largest part of the caliper. Which is 16" diameter. The width tapers to this going inwards toward the axle. Dont know what the ID is but,
I can have them re centered to 5" backspacing with 8x170 centers. This 250 a wheel.
or I can buy 8x170 to 8x6.5 adapters in 2" for about 200 for all 4. (acutally gotta check measurement son that rear end first).

Anyway, both the recenter and spacer method will net me 5" backspace to clear my brakes (in theory).
cost: recentered-250 a wheel
adaper: 40 a wheel, plus 45-50 a corner for adapter. <100 bucks a wheel.
Or buy mounted on (stock) 24 bolt wheels MTRs shipped for 1100.


some pics:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psa572a199.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psa8wm9niu.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psxh2bv2li.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...pssspcphp3.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...pszdknutcr.jpg

this weeks project, just get everything whire wheeled, and brush some paint on it.

I am going to say it again. Wheel spacers(5" worth) is a BAD idea on unit bearings(or any bearing)

if i run a spacer it owuld be max 2"
Dually adapters are like 4", the center of the wheel ends upo being somewhere just before the caliper. Mine will be out about an inch further. Not a big deal IMO.

update: picked up an 07 F350 3.373 LSD rear end for bout Tree fiddy today.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psidug229w.jpg

IIRC hummer wheels have a Very POSITIVE offset and require a LARGE spacer to put there where they would need to go

Quick Q: how does the front of the 05+ SD driveshaft attach to the Tcase or transmission? Is it a regular yoke or the flange head like on the rear end?

Wondering if it is worth buying the crewcab rear driveshaft for 120? Im running an NP205

I don't know if I'd mess with that rear shaft for 120. My thoughts are with the newer axles and divorced transfercase setup anyway your going to be into custom driveshaft territory. So just have your current rear shaft modified to work. That 2007 shaft is nothing more than a parts donor.

Now if you don't have any front shaft I'd try to round one up. In my 89 F350 with NP205 I have a 1983 F250 front drive shaft installed. I don't remember if I needed a special joint or not. I don't have a CV in my front shaft like factory F350's do.

Thanks. Would I need a CV joint or just s u joint on the axle, or slip yoke on the transfer case? Acually...im confused as how to do the front shaft entirely now.
The np205 just has a regular U joint yoke on the front output, and with the rear output.

Need some kind of give or slip in the front driveshaft.

I know my current carrier bearing is dying-can i get a replacement off rockauto?
Also i would need the new style flange on the shaft and not the ujoint yoke i currently have.

For the front driveshaft, i forgot that stock driveshafts has a slip joint built in to them. This is nice means i dont need another carrier bearing, and because of the length i think i can just run 2 u joints without the CV joint. But if i find a good pric eon a compeltle cv joint DS i will take that.
also I can save myself about 100$ by extending and welding the shaft myself. Doesnt need to be balanced as i wouldbt be in 4wd over 60 kph.

So ill take my 100$ i saved and invest in a 14" chop saw to make the tube a smooth cut :)

Also, the rear end i showed-i was dumb for not checking at the yard but it was hte worst pinion slop ever. Im sure the pinion gear itself is toast too.
Im swapping for a rear end with 114k miles (this has 140) at the yard tomorrow. jsut gotta pull the calipers off of this one as the other doesnt have any.
Going to buy a 20 ton press tonight for well..anythign i may need to press. Hopefully the new rear end is nice, but if it has even a little bit of play ill rebuild it.


Bad news..i foudn some threads-and my H1 wheels in stock configuration simply wont work.

However-for a few hundred more I can have them custom build by Stazworks.
They are 205 a wheel. 8x170 pattern, 3-3/8 backspacing. Need to double check again but I believe this is what I need to run them with no clearance issues on the 05 SD stuff.
I like his center designes the most-the 1ton Mod. No one has this style available.
http://stazworks.com/images/hrims5l.jpg

They would be first sandblasted, then power coated, and assembled. Trying to gt a package deal with the MTR tires, dont know if he stocks these ones. Lead time is 4-5 weeks which is perfect. So im going to work with John at Stazworks to get these going asap.

got an HX35 turbo off a gm 8.1 gasser generator. I think its a little small on the cold side however. trying to find the actual map of this particular turbo.

did get these today for free
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psspool5sa.jpg

picking up an 05 hydrobooster, pump, MC and reservoir this week

going to be putting in an overhead switch panel which will control most of the electrical on the truck. Somethign with breakers preferably. might just make one to fit my dimensions.
Building a nice overhead to house most of the switches, radio, compass, some storage yada yada
http://www.boaterbits.ca/media/catal...S/DSC_7493.jpg

all firewall connections will be made with push and twist to lock milspec style connectors
http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Proj...96_DcLBB-M.jpg
Will install a spare one for any other thing si may come up with down the road or i forget/run out of money for.

dindt post to this site in a while.

quick cliffs: ditched the military wheel idea

got some 17" black rock wheels
tires will be cooper discoverer s/t Maxx.

Ordered an 05 CCLB frame from texas for 760 delivered to my house thru my yard.
Figured it owuld be easier and more time effective if I make a full roller, bigger stronger stouter frame, and all the front components will just bolt right up to it! I can put the fuel tank in, run all SS brake lines, bascially have it ready to go and drop my body on it, adjust cab and bed mounts as neccessary.

New wheelbase is 172", mine is 168. so i will have to modify my rear box wheel arches. Theyre home made anyway so no big deal.
The frame will also be wired electricaly ready for the hitch, accessory lights, and my lift gate. Should be fun.

Bought some torches for 350 bucks with 3/4 full tanks. score!

https://i207.photobucket.com/albums/...psnjcn2nf6.jpg
https://i207.photobucket.com/albums/...psyxuia4fe.jpg
https://i207.photobucket.com/albums/...psofgqtham.jpg
https://i207.photobucket.com/albums/...psueeokhmq.jpg
http://www.treaddepot.com/prodimg/co...roup-large.png
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psjj7gfria.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psbqh6j38j.jpg

So I guess you are cutting and shortening the frame

no id rather have an ugly bed than mess with the frame. Maybe I can move the rear leafs forward the 4", but like I said, I dont mind messing with my bed, as its **** anyways and my current wheel arches are home made anyway.

Where did you get the bulkhead electrical fittings?

How much does the CAT paint cost?

Thanks,

Roy

i hav eyet to order the connectors. there are aloooooooot of choices out there, need to make a game plan as to what I need.

Amphenol makes them, mouser electronics sells them.

The cat paint was 43$ for the black, 45 for the grey, and gallon of thinner was 21 i believe.

Dang it I was really hoping you'd follow through with the Hummer wheels. I want to run 05+ axles but also MTRs and I still don't know if it can be done for sure.

i can tell you for sure from a bunch of threads I have seen, 16.5" wheels will only clear if you run a minimum of 3.5" back spacing.
the 17s I got are tight around the front calipers, cant fit a finger in there.
9" wide 0 offset.

and recentered to an 8x170 of course.

No real way around this unless oyu get custom spacers from arrowcraft and thats 720 for 4 of em. The 8x170 really screws it up for running military wheels on the cheap.
with new wheels and tires, black rock 997s, cooper s/t maxx 37s, taxes mounted installed etc total package im at 1700. Its alot :( but 17s are more common and can run any tire I wish pretty much. The wheels are i think 16-17 pounds lighter a piece than the 24 bolt h1 wheels too. the h1s do look bad ass though.

I've heard about the 3.5" rule but nothing concrete. I don't even care about the Hummer wheels, it's the tires I want. Plain steelies work for me since I won't be airing down. If I can get some aftermarket steelies in 8x170 with enough backspacing and a high load rating I'll be set.

You know about the Rockstars cracking, right?

no one is running rock star wheels?

On an OBS? I hope not, they are Ugly as FAUK

i meant, i dunno where you got the comment of Rockstar wheels from. the wheels I got are made by black rock/cragar. -dunno

I must have mis read

dont update much ver here, my main thread is ove ron oil burners.

heres some pics that came in or are coming in.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...pstojx4krf.jpg
$30 bucks for htis, picked up a 2500# wireless remote winch to replace the hand crank.

painted. buiulding the rear parking brakes up tonight
https://i207.photobucket.com/albums/...psrh9pgmhp.jpg

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...93_dim.jpg?369
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...g?v=1403626004
should be in next week.

C code springs
https://i207.photobucket.com/albums/...psaqa0ojzo.jpg

https://i207.photobucket.com/albums/...psgeivkq4b.jpg

06 172" WB frame from texas, got my first coat of paint on it. Came with a class 5 hitch on it already. No fuel tank as of yet, want to get a roller on tires first to see what im dealing with. these new frames have a big cross memebr on the rear.

tires should be here in a couple days. Got some 2" long spline drive lug nuts so people dont punk my wheels.

ordered a set of header flanges from justin at R&D to start mocking up my customheaders and uppipes for the turbo, and a bunch of V band clamps.

going to grab a 6.0 intercooler soon, waiting on a set of factory 4" lift blocks for the rear, Should be a full roller by end of next week.

Looking good!! Great thread!!