1948-52 brake booster info
 

I know there has been a lot of discussion about boosters for these trucks. I bought this one off Ebay for $225.00 delivered. Am very impressed. It bolts into the old master cylinder holes and to the frame. Has a bell crank installed to correct the pedal throw. The mounting brackets are 1/4" and 3/16". Has the correct combination valve for disk/drum or disc/disc, your choice. does not stick out from frame any more than stock. Includes a brake light switch. Definitely worth a look if you are doing a conversion.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/48-52-FORD-F100-TRUCK-POWER-BRAKE-BOOSTER-KIT-DISC-DRUM-/380691407755?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1952%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AF1%7CSubmodel%3ABase&hash=item58a2f9e38b&vxp=mtr

The actuating rod must attach directly to the brake pedal?

Yes, but it has linkage to increase the throw so it is correct for power. It also moves the booster and master further back where there is more room between the frame and transmission or drive shaft depending on transmission length.

Looks like a nice piece. It'll fit on a F3 as well, correct? I've been waiting for a piece like this before I go disc in front. Thanks for the pics!!

So the booster hose would go to where on the intake manifold? (I have a flathead 239)

I would assume it would fit a F3 as well. I think it uses the same master cylinder. As for vacuum I have several vacuum ports behind my carb on my 52 F1. If you don't there are many places that sell a spacer for the carb that is drilled for vacuum.

Thanks for the info, Mike!

Thanks for the info helping me out here

From the logo on the MC that is a CPP unit. Oh, clicking on the ebay link it is being offered by CPP. Interesting that they are selling their products at a discount on ebay. (this unit lists for 299.00 on their web site and catalog)

Some changes would likely be needed for an F-3, because the crossmember is further back than on an F-1. The pushrod would have to be lengthened for sure.

That looks like a real nice unit! Great find.

I went to a hydroboost unit with an OEM 1.25" bore matching master cylinder for my 6.2L engine swap. Mine had a vacuum power booster, but the diameter was very small and thus boost limited. I also went to a larger master cylinder diameter as I wanted a (more) firm pedal and very short throw on the pedal. I'm super happy. I have way more stopping power than with the vacuum assist (can lock the brakes easy) so it is up to me to properly modulate. Supposedly, the human body modulates braking better with very short and firm push from the leg (vs. lengthier push with softer pedal). My braking confidence is certainly now very high.

This is the cheapest hydroboost unit I've found for an OEM (not rebuilt) unit.
- a few months ago when I bought it ... it was $137.XX

From AMAZON, the OEM NEW master cylinder was about $50.
It took some digging in Amazon to find a cheap OEM unit.

Building the lines cost me about $180 with the ends. I used aeroquip power steering lines and ends (they reseal eaton). And a length of lower pressure, but quality return line.
Because of the under floor master mounting, OEM lines won't work. Otherwise, this swap would have been WAY reasonably priced.

Note, the hydroobost install required some fabrication. The mounting plate for the unit I bought had the hole for the mounting bolts offset from the vacuum unit I removed. Three of the four mounting studs matched the master cylinder mounting bracket already in place.
I realized if I cut a large square out of the backing plate I could flip the square and weld it back in, centering the hole within the bracket. It worked a charm. The plate is 3/16" steel and easy to cut and weld.
Since the booster unit can be run in any rotational orientation, I optimized clearance away from the exhaust and welded in new notches to properly index the mounting orientation.

Sorry, but I didn't take any photos of the backing plate after I did my fabrication work. I should have.

The other fab work required me to cut the input shaft and bore out the threaded adjustment sleeve with heim joint which attaches to the brake pedal bell crank as seen in Mike's photos. Once I cut off the end of the booster input shaft, I bored the hole, slipped the sleeve over and welded at the correct overall length (measure the old one first!). I gave myself 1/4" plus / minus on the heim joint threads to optimize the length once installed.

Just an option some may want to explore. If you have power steering and on the order of 1000 psi, the hydroboost unit should work well for you. I think the power steering pump I have is 1200 psi.

Note II, when looking for a unit, look at 3/4 ton trucks or SUVs.

Doug

On what year/model/engine truck is this mounted. Looks like a good idea. I too wish that you had pictures for those of us that need them.

What power steering pump did you get and how did you mount it?

Hi Pete,
Around here, I guess I'm a darksider. I've got a late model Escalade engine and 6 speed auto trans. Gm calls them L92 & 6L80 I just use the OEM Delco pump. I use all of the OEM accessories, including the AC compressor.

It is worth noting the pump now has two low pressure return lines. One from the steering rack and one from the boost unit. I bought a barbed T to join the return lines feeding only the one return nipple on the pump. The manufacturers do make pumps with two return fittings, but mine was new, so I used the T.

If you don't know...Pressure comes from the pump to the brake booster. A secondary pressure line leaves the booster and feeds the steering rack. I did use a volume reducer fitting to make the pump compatible with the Ford Mustang II rack.

Let me piece together the photos I do have. You can see the booster with the lines running to it and the master cylinder behind the trans crossmember. Things are rather tight with my exhaust routing. I did that to get it up out of the way and routed around the original vacuum booster. I added a fire sleeve for the hose close to the exhaust. Bear in mind a lot of the heat is lost by 3' downstream of the manifolds. I'll hit the power steering pump reservoir with my IR gun to see the temps. If need be, I'll install a cooler in the low pressure line coming from the booster.
Doug

Here's a shot from the rear. You can see the clocking challenge between the fittings and the accumulator which sticks out a bit.... an optimization effort takes place. Most shouldn't have the conflict with the exhaust routing. My shifter cable, which is very firm, is also squeezed in there.

Doug
1951 F-1
2008 L92 / 6L80 conversion
Heidt's independent IFS.

Astro - Kit Plate Comparison Photo by 65Gladiator | Photobucket

This picture shows about how my backing plate looked after the modification (photo on the left). The booster itself attaches to the backing plate with a large threaded sleeve which slips through the hole. A large nut captures the booster and tightens it against the backing plate.

You can also see the notch which indexes (clocks) the booster unit against the backing plate. there is a machined groove on the booster unit to make with the notch. In my booster, it had two grooves machined and two notches.

Thanks Ross, I didn't know about the cross member. The front linkage on the booster is just a piece of threaded rod with two heim joints so it would be easy to lengthen.