How do I identify an 8BA block?
 

My engine rebuilder just called and said my block for my '50 F-1 is cracked beyond repair. The heads, water pumps, intake etc are good.
I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer, so I could use some help.

How could I identify a bare block as being an appropriate 8BA for for my '50?

Are there stamped/cast numbers? Length? Smell?

I may have a line on a couple blocks here in the phoenix area, but I want to make sure I am looking at something that will be useful to me. This person wants around $250 for one. Good price?
Help!

Thanks a whole bunch in advance.

Dan Sokol

Ideally, get an whole engine that you can see running in a car/truck, that the seller is going to yank. It doesn't need to be in great shape but needs to fire on all cylinders, not bubble into the cooling system, etc. Price according to how well it runs. For instance, this seems like a good deal; late model flathead, if it is in good running condition and doesn't need a rebuild, it's a good savings: flathead ford V8

Deals like this come up frequently, just be patient. I do have a spare block that has been magnafluxed and had some cracks fixed. I get over to Glendale a couple times a year, too, to visit my son (not this time of year!!)

Mine was running when I decided to pull it and rebuild "because I don't know if it ever was".

Guess I'm glad I found out now, but it has made me a little gun shy.

DjS

Oops.
sorry.

DjS

Easiest way to tell them apart is by the back of the block. Early engines had the bell housing cast onto the block, late (8ba) engines do not.
If you buy a bare block, make sure the main bearing caps are with it. I consider all "complete" flatheads to be cores(not worth much) unless I can see/hear them run or can pull the heads to inspect for cracks.....