Advice On Fender Rust
 

Recently my '96 250 has started to show some bubbling of rust on the driver's side fender-directly behind the front wheel. From what I've seen around here (CT-we use TONS of salt here) this is fairly typical. Would you suggest pulling the fender and cutting out/patching the rusty area or to buy a new repro fender. I'm NOT a fan of repro anything, and I'd really prefer to fix the Ford factory part. Is this feasable? Would the rust be prone to come back? Thanks for any advice!
Roger
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I would NOT even consider patching a simple bolt on piece such as a fender.
Hell, I don't patch bed sides, I replace them.

Ford still offers the fenders and from what I have heard the aftermarket fenders are decent pieces

New metal is always the way to go. Repro is thinner (by thousandths) than OEM --I'd try a Southern junk yard and go used OEM if possible--- media blast, undercoat, then layer on extra paint.............

:-X22

I would sand down to bare metal, then make an appropriate decision.
If it's too pitted, or rusted through, don't waste your time. Buy a junkyard fender and prep it.
Anything reproduction is going to be garbage for fitment.

If you do score a good used fender, coat the ever living snot of the inside with some rust inhibiter. ( I used Por 15 on the insides of my Orange one)

Por15 is ONLY good on SANDBLASTED BARE METAL or Rusty metal. It does NOT stick to clean smooth metal

Why Yes Brad, Im glad you can read the instructions aswell....

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I think I'm going with Ford NOS. Any tips on removing the black trim? I heard its hard to find and even harder to remove without screwing it up! FWIW, I'm going to do both fenders on this truck, even though the pass side isn't showing rust (YET)......

Roger

that's being prepared, not too many people understand that.

If you want to keep the truck for years to come, do it once the right way.

as far as body molding, if you want an idea, I say, try going to a pick n pull and try one with it. atleast you can experiment on a wreck, than your own ride.

To remove the trim, Fishing line works great. The trick is to not distort or bend the moulding. Once you do, you are screwed.

And Puddy, you left that very important step out.

Also, You do realize your "mask" is Far from adequate for sandblasting ???

Sigh....... so im guessing you've never used one...

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O, I have, then learned that is was going to KILL me. Silicosis, read up on it!!!

So I went and bought a fresh air system with a GOOD hood too.
So now not only will I not KILL my self while sandblasting, I can see what I am doing AND not sweat to death doing it
Fresh air system
Fresh Air Respirators | Painting Respirators

GOOD blast hood
Nova 2000 Blast Hood / Helmet - Norton Sandblasting Equipment

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I'm with Brad on this one. Replace the front fenders with the best new stock you can afford. I just spoke to a body shop before going on holidays and I was told one can get full bed side replacements. I never knew that! I'm going to have mine replaced when I finally get around to doing the body on my truck.

I refurbed some very large dish radar antennas quite a few years ago for a company I worked for. Had the non-fresh air hood at first, used it for five minutes, then ordered a fresh air hood similar to yours Brad. Night and day difference.

THAT I did not know! Are you talking aftermarket bed sides or Ford? I'm kindof a NOS guy and shy away from repro (I've restored dozens of 1964-68 Mustangs) because, as a rule, they turn out to be sub-standard. If you have a source for those bed sides, I'm all ears!

Roger

Long bed sides are still available thru ford but short beds are not(have to go aftermarket)