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65 F100 Owner Charlotte - Need Mechanic for 2d Opinion
My 1965 F-100 has a replacement 352 V-8 of unknown vintage (likely late 60s or 70s). It has been diagnosed as having a bad #8 cylinder, recommendation to rebuild. The quote to rebuild was about $7,000 all-in including some additional stuff tossed in. At that price, I have to sell the vehicle and if I spent that kind of money, I would think replacing the engine would be the much smarter play. I need help to assess the options and decide what to do. Anyone have a guru with whom I can connect?
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Why is #8 bad?
And yes, $7,000 is crazy money, if you want a fresh build engine, price "Long Blocks" at about any auto parts place. |
I believe Id get a second estimate from someone else....
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Any suggestions?
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All I can say is $7000 to rebuild an engine is outrageous. I know it is a 352 but they aren't that different to cause that much of an increase in the price. You can get a new engine installed for a little over half of that. I would call around to a few machine shops and ask what they would charge to do the work on the engine. 7 grand is rediculous.Someone also ask before what did the shop mean by #8 cylinder is bad? I am a fleet mechanic (ASE Certified) and that price sounds way over what it should be. Even if the cylinder wall is cracked they could sleeve it and it shouldn't cost that much. I wish I knew of a shop in your area.
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From Ratsmoker:
I'm assuming you are going to bore the block since you are looking for a rebuild kit. Autozone sells badger pistons for about 100 bucks a set up to .110 over for the 352. I would then get the bearings and rings from summitracing. Go with a good brand on these as this is where you want your strongpoint to be. A cam & lifter kit can be bought from autozone or PAW very cheaply. May as well rebuild the carb too while you're at it. It will cost about $20. All your gaskets can be bought from summitracing or autozone for about the same price. I would recommend felpro's engine rebuild kit. It will contain about everthing you will need. Autozone will also trade in your heads for rebuilt ones for about $125 a head if yours need too much work. I don't know how good their head work quality is but people tell me it is ok. Head work can get expensive if you start talking new valve seats and guides. Don't forget to do your oiling mods as they are cheap insurance. I would say a HV oil pump is optional if you aren't going to be revving the motor all the time but replace the oil pump reguardless. ARP makes an oil pump driveshaft for about $15 bucks that is pretty much invincible so that would be cheap insurance also. ARP rod bolts is another strong recommendation. They are far stronger than ford's bolts and cost about $50. FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums Good luck. Keep us posted. |
A junkyard Coyote would be nice in that truck.
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Originally Posted by fuzzy1626
(Post 14283106)
A junkyard Coyote would be nice in that truck.
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Still no reply on why #8 is bad...
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Well he can't say the Q-Crew wasn't there for him.
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Thanks guys - to answer the question about the #8 cylinder, in short I dont know. I think that he said that when he took the head off he could see material bled over from the #7 into the #8, but I could be totally wrong. As it is, I have the vehicle with a mechanic here in CLT who does NOT think the engine needs to be rebuilt so I am having some small work done and we're going to see what comes out.
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I'd start with a compression test of all cylinders... A vacuum test wouldn't be a bad idea either.:D
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