Yea the valve assemblies are new and waiting.
I had 3 head bolts that were stuck and ultimately broke and guess what, they all have the water jacket crack:(. I had read multiple times not to worry bout them and use some ceramic thread sealant. Gonna be looking for some 080 pistons and rings and will proceed after that. Just gonna have to slow down...Remember,,, I was told that it ran good just needed brakes.
.Can anyone shed some light on the meaning of these casting numbers/codes???
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/_DSC0481.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/_DSC0482.jpg
.
.Thanks ....Roger

Can't help with those numbers; since the original numbers were stamped over, I'd guess the second ones are a rebuilders mark. From the date codes on your bearings (2 65 = Feb 1965) and the existing overbore, no question the engine has been rebuilt at least once. What is pertinent for buying parts is that your engine is actually an "0BA" (zero BA), which means you should have drilled oiler holes on the connecting rods, if they are all original to the engine. You may also have rotator-style valves, can you post a picture? If you look on the back of the block, right under that K-number, to the right of the oil pump drive cover plate, what is cast into the block? Should be 0BA or 1BA.

You can get new pistons up to 1/8" oversize, but I'd go the minimum.

I will check for the OBA or 1BA tomorrow.
Valve assemblies were kinda a hodge-podge some rotators some not, I never knew what was coming out.
Rods were kinda screwy tooo. No. 5 rod had a 5 that was overmarked with a 6, and #6 had a # 5 marked on the rod,,,go figure.
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/_DSC0486.jpg

To the right of the oil pump cover and under the K# is a X and lower down is a 2C in the casting, but nothing else,,,,great, more puzzles...

Nice script bed!

Roger, maybe this will help you find the numbers that Ross mentioned

The important considerations for an 8BA block are the valve seats. During production from 1949 through 1953 Ford eliminated the hard seats. Hard seats on the intakes aren't really necessary, but are nice if you have them. You do need hard seats on the exhaust.

If you want to learn more than you need to know about different flathead blocks, there is a thread on the Ford Barn with a lot of details: Engine block I.D. pictures - The Ford Barn

Yep that's where I looked.
Got some pictures
.
.http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/_DSC0898.jpg
.http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/_DSC0897.jpg
.Any ideas???
Thanks Roger

I've got another block in the back of my truck, I'll pull it out tomorrow and check to see if that one is different. BTW, from my measurements, the stamping should be under the black mounting plate, below the stampings that you are seeing. The 2C on yours is about the same place as the 5 on mine.

Not what I want,,, but I have made a decision!!!!!
Gonna do as some have suggested and hone the cylinders as best as I can.
The bearings that were in it plastiguage to within specs.
Already have the new valve assemblies.
Ordered some parts
New rings
Complete gasket set with copper head gaskets
New stud kit
Ceramic sealant
Ultra high temp silver paint (for the head gaskets)
Gonna put her all back together and see what I got.
The $$$$$ for the speed shop,new bearings and yadda, yadda, yadda are too over the top for me right now.
This will give me time to accumulate what I need and do it all over again ifn I need to.
Who knows maybe the county will hire me to do mosquito patrol....
...Roger

Found It!!!!!

8BA inside valve galley beside of the hole where the fuel pump push rod is.
sure enough, it says 8BA,,,,

New valves are all lapped and ready to go,,,just waiting on the big brown truck!!!
.....Roger

Big brown truck delayed cause of snow,,,,maybe tomorrow...

We're all tingling with antici-

..pation!
Keep us posted.