scored a 1971 400
gentleman ...
I just scored a low mile 1971 400 and c 6 trans for my 67 f100 project the car its coming from was sitting in a garage for years what I have figured out so far is that the 71 engines were rated around 260 hp which is plenty for what I want to be able to do with my truck considering I have a 300 I6 in it now what I plan on doing is doing a gasket rebuild on it and using the engine as it sits can anybody give hints on what I should update on engine I plan on updating the timing chain to zero degrees , and oil pump to a high volume while its out also plan on installing new seals on the valves rebuilding the 2 barrel carb and installing a pertronix kit in the dizzy to get rid of the points and adding true dual exhaust with the iron manifolds what else should I look at ? jim |
. Congrats! I think the first Ford 400 and Chevy SBC 400's built in 1970-1971 were both rated at 265grossHP and 9:1 compression ratio... could they have been peeking at each other's plans...? . Then they turned both engines into pigs after that... compression ratios dropped to "8:1" or "8.5:!", but prolly actually only in the high 7:1's... my '76 SBC 400 with a 4-bbl. carb. was rated only a pathetic 175HP... later Ford 400 even less, I think... your early timing chain setup is prolly already at -0- advance/retard, but replace it if it's stretched/worn out... People here claim the Ford 400 got retarded cam timing later... SBC 400 got advanced cam timing, but that could be fixed by merely reversing the bottom timing chain sprocket...
. Headers would help, but maybe you don't want them... the dual exhaust should help a lot... a 4bbl. carb. adapter also... . In one of the 'read first' threads above, I recall a magazine article getting a baseline 300+HP and 400+ lb.-ft. torque out of a Ford 400 rebuilt with custom flat top pistons (it was originally a slug 1976 engine), but stock heads, and stock cam spec.s, just adding headers/duals and 4bbl. carb... in easy driving, a properly tuned 4bbl. carb. often offers better MPG than a 2bbl. because of smaller, more efficient primary butterflies/fuel atomization... http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/10...d/viewall.html |
I would absolutely get a double roller timing chain and install it straight up.
The stock timing chains are junk. A cam and lifter kit would be cheap and if you're going to take it down to put in a new timing chain.... Lots of power to be had with that engine with simple upgrades. |
Read the treads on the 335 section for great advise depending on what you want and your budget. I had a 351M in a 79 f250 years ago. I had the block bored .0030 over, installed a 400 crank and new cast pistons ( only difference in 400 vs 351M ) , a new cam with lift and duration 1 step over stock, and aluminum intake and carb, and rings/ bearing/ gaskets/ timing chain/ gears/ oil pump ( all that typically comes with basic rebuild kits. ). That 400 turned out to be a GREAT engine! I really ran like a top man tons of power sounded great and started every time with just the first touch on the key. You could go with even more cam and compression since your in a car the is lighter. Go for it man.
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If your heads are going to be in the shop already......I had 460 4V valves put in mine and woke it up tremendously. The only port work they did was to bowl hog the area under the valves. The cost of the labor was minimal, but the valves added up.
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the 400 in my grandpa's montego woke up nice with the edelbrock performer intake, cam, and a 600 holley. Massive improvement on fuel mileage and power. Was not a budget breaker either.
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In 1971 the 400 was rated at
260 maximum brake h.p. @ 4400 rpm 400 maximum torque lbs. Ft. @ 2200 rpm 4.00x4.00 bore and stroke 9.0 compression ratio And 35-60 normal oil pressure pounds |
Originally Posted by derbydad276
(Post 13824649)
gentleman ...
I just scored a low mile 1971 400 and c 6 trans for my 67 f100 project considering I have a 300 I6 in it now rebuilding the 2 barrel carb and installing a pertronix kit in the dizzy to get rid of the points what else should I look at ? jim http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-750-1700 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-750-1705/overview |
instead of a 4 barrel carb I'm looking at fuel injection
the TBI from Chevrolet engines adapts to any V8 and inline 6 engines not really installing it for more performance but economy reports of 2 to 3 mpg increase Fuel Injection Conversion using a GM TBI EFI system! |
Originally Posted by derbydad276
(Post 13824649)
and oil pump to a high volume while its out
jim . Also, I wouldn't expect more MPG from going to TBI, most MPG increases came from numerous improvements inside the engines... such as higher compression ratio, better quench, fast burn combustion chambers, straight up cam timing, longer intake port tracts, better flowing exhaust systems, and improved camshaft design... |
I know there's a lotta things I don't know, but I didn't think the 400 hit the scene until '77?
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What about going with an HEI distributor? That's what I was thinking of for my 400 build.
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
(Post 13931849)
I know there's a lotta things I don't know, but I didn't think the 400 hit the scene until '77?
.. I was also considering an HEI distributor, because my Chevy engines with HEI start instantly warm or cold, seldom do I hear the starter crank the engine first... while my '77 351M with Ford Duraspark always has to crank over several times before starting or even firing at all (similar to what EFI engines do) ... I need to investigate whether it's the distributor/spark or carb. causing that... it would seem that starters and batteries would last much longer on the Ford if it started instantly nearly every time... I also had the 351M's starter 'explode' one winter day away from home, the starter gear engagement mechanism just shattered into pieces... no fun crawling under the truck and changing it in the snow... (especially since the carb. on my car froze up the same day because of an open element air cleaner with no Thermactor/heat tube stuff)... maybe I need a GM Q-Jet carb. on the Ford 400" for instant starting...? . For now, I'll prolly just wait and see how it starts after swapping the stock 2bbl. for a Holley 650 CFM spreadbore 4 bbl. (similar to Q-Jet's spreadbores)... . How quick do you people's Ford 351M and 400 carb.'d engines start? |
I'd at least do a cam/lifter/spring set and a 4-barrel edelbrock intake. I'm running the Comp Cams Xe262 setup but for what you're wanting I'd probably do a comp XE255 or XE256 can't remember which it is. Cam tech has come a long way from that stock one.
Make sure you break it in properly and use oil with a high ZDDP content. I use Valvoline VR-1 |
Originally Posted by BuzzLOL
(Post 13938313)
.. I was also considering an HEI distributor, because my Chevy engines with HEI start instantly warm or cold, seldom do I hear the starter crank the engine first... while my '77 351M with Ford Duraspark always has to crank over several times before starting or even firing at all (similar to what EFI engines do) ... I need to investigate whether it's the distributor/spark or carb. causing that... it would seem that starters and batteries would last much longer on the Ford if it started instantly nearly every time...
. How quick do you people's Ford 351M and 400 carb.'d engines start? I instantly noticed the difference in performance going from points to the HEI. It is highly recommended in my book. |
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