Been reading around on WMO and biodiesel, when I bought my truck it had 100% biodiesel and one of the tanks... Ran okay, my question is I see a lot of people using waste oil for fuel., I have a pretty much unlimited supply of fresh engine oil that has never been ran anywhere from 5w20 to 15w40... Since I see a lot of mixing 50 50, would it still be okay to run this mix?

The older diesels generally like a little oil in the fuel. These engines were designed to run on a fuel that is no longer legal to sell in the US.

Engine oil was not designed to burn as fuel. I wouldn't go 50/50. I have run 15% oil mix without issues. And I avoid burning anything with synthetic oil.

Where are you getting all this unused oil? Are you sure it is dry?

From our good ol military lol, its in sealed 55 gallon drums. I also have "used" jpa as well, so no more than 15% you think? Thats about 2½ gallons on a fill up

How big is your fuel tank? 15% of 30 is 4.5 gallons.

JPA? Do you mean JP8? JP8 with some 2 cycle oil (marine grade, preferably) will run great in these motors. I know an aircraft mechanic who has been running reclaimed JP8 in his truck for years.

I have two 19 gallon tanks...yes sorry its jp8

You can try the 50/50 mix. I know others do it. The 15% rule is just my personal comfort level.

I'll try it @ 15% and experiment from there. I do keep the front tank all diesel though just in case, filter gets changed every other month

I have ran as much as 25% with out any problems. A little harder to start. My truck is harder to start than most even on straight diesel. I wish I had a second tank so I could use a higher % of oil in it and one tank for straight diesel during start up and shut down during winter. My biggest issue is finding time to filter the oil. I run it through whole house water filters. Seems to work and haven't had any issues. I have only went through about 20 gallons. I'm new to this and don't do it on every tank. Kinda lazy I guess.

Hey thank you for the information now, it's greatly appreciated. I kind of figured I was going to start 15 to 20 percent.. I'm in the process of fixing my front tank..... I think it is the pick up to inside the tank, it wont even run when the tank is full but if I switch it to the back tank it runs just fine, good times lol

i started real slow on burning WMO, like a gallon per fill up, but then got brave. i was in the habit of running 60% WMO all the time for a good while, mixing it before filtering, worked great when i could take an hour every night to do it, then life changed and i'm living in an apartment, so i don't have as much time to spend on it. now i get it when i can, usually when working on whatever up at the parents house cause thats where my system is. i've run as strong as 90%, though at that point its a bit slow getting into the engine and i can feel it starving a little bit. also, its a bit challenging to start with a mix above about 60%, though starting and stopping on plain #2 and switching to a stronger mix while driving avoids that concern.
the ONLY serious problem i ran into on WMO was when i had a bit of metallic debris in my oil supply, which got past the filters in tiny particles. it gathered on the fuel shutoff solenoid on the top of the injection pump and fried the solenoid. it took me a couple weeks to be willing to burn oil again after that, but i got over my fears, placed several strong magnets along the bottom of my tanks and on the outside of my filters, and got right back to burning it.
once you get used to the idea of it, its really not anything to worry about

Joshofalltrades.... if you worry about small metal shavings collecting on the fuel shutoff solenoid couldn't just be cleaned every so often? Like during an oil change? They don't look that hard to pull off, unless I'm looking at the wrong thing.

Side note with how cold winter has been here, down in the negative temps for highs. I have cut back to a gallon every fill up. I tend to not go bellow a 1/4 before I refuel. Truck seems to not mind it that thin to much but you can smell it burning the oil when it first starts. Till it gets nice and warm.

No, pulling the cover off is easy, if slightly messy.

Y'know I'm wondering, though... If the problem is FSS generating magnetism and sticking metal shavings... why not just remove it?
With the FSS entirely removed, the engine will run. Just not shut off. You could kill the engine by pushing the throttle lever past low-idle, though. Which pretty much means making a latching/adjustable low-idle plate instead of the screw, something operated by cable. Move your stop out of the way to kill the engine, move it such that it pushes the throttle back to idle to have your idle.
Could probably do it with a solenoid or two like the high idle one, but it would need a longer throw distance.

i've heard of others finding such alternative ways to stop their engines, and it sounds like a reasonable plan. after having to FSS's fail a week apart, i now carry a spare top cover for my IP which has the FSS lever cut off. if i ever have to use it, i'll see about these alternative shutdown methods.
on a related note, they do make a cover that uses a mechanical shutdown, it was found primarily in stationary engines and non-highway vehicles if i remember right, and it would be fairly easy to set up a cable linkage for one of these if someone desired to.

as for cleaning the FSS periodically, the challenge is that it has a permanent magnet included in it, so it'll be challenging to remove all metal debris from it, especially when that metal has snuck its way inside where it can do the real damage.
i haven't had any additional problems since i added strong magnets to the bottom of my fuel tanks and the outside of my filter. any metal that may be present will get trapped by the magnet in one of these places and not get into my pump.

and pulling the top cover of the pump is as easy at it looks, but the concern is that the FSS lever MUST be in the correct position when the cover is reinstalled or else you'll have a runaway engine on your hands. everyone i've read says it must be energized when you're installing it, but my experience suggests that it can be installed properly by placing the top of the pump in place about 1/4" forward of its proper position, then sliding it back to where it belongs and installing the screws.

Not to stray to far from the OP's topic but I feel we have raised some very good points when using WMO etc. You can never be to safe and I like the magnet idea to catch stray metal particles.

Josh what type of magnet did you use. I know Neodymium are strong and aren't to badly priced on Amazon yet they are mostly smaller magnets. I am thinking about getting some and running the used oil over them to collect any possible metal shavings.

On a side note I do like the idea of the mechanical shutdown. Could be used for safety and I wonder if you could incorporate a fast idle with it. It would help warm these engines up during the cold days.

Yup; works fine. Just got to take a look at the lever and see where it should be compared to the springed-slidey-thing in the top of the pump, such that when the lever is pulled 'on' it doesn't interfere, and when it is off, it pushes against said slidey-thing. Easier done than said.

yes, easier done than said. after reading tons of posts on the subject, it scared the hell out of me to even think about putting that cover on by myself, even though i'm a mechanic full time. i inspected the hell out of it to make sure that it just pushes on the arm like that, nothing complicated at all. easy to do right, but better be sure you're doing it right

I have mixed 60% virgin motor oil, and or ATF with #2 and 5% RUG with out a problem, in a stock fuel system, to 32* but no colder went back to pure #2 for the winter. the IdI will run on mineral oil,(Suntan lotion) in a pinch.}>:-jammin

i got in trouble a few days ago trying to start on 75% WMO 25% #2 when the temp dropped to about 25. wore the batteries down and couldn't quite get it to come to life before work. got it to life that evening with fully charged batteries and a temp around 35, switched the mix to about 50/50 and all is well again, cold starts are only a few seconds of cranking, and i can switch to the 75% tank for all but startups and shutdowns. these darn things will run on just about anything, and i'm loving it!

So just a little update guys, I see this have been a active thread lol.. I've been running 2 gallons of clean atf +4 at fill up roughly 18-19 gallons. Haven't had any problems yet

Is this "clean" as in virgin unused ATF?? If so you should be fine. I think the biggest issue is getting the used oil, atf, etc clean of metal particles or other foreign things.

Yes clean as in virgin lol, any pros in using just 2 gallons?

The old deuce and a halfs were multi-fuel diesel, there are undoubtedly still some around, if maybe in some state national guard armories. The military has little need for gasoline in recent years, having switched to vehicles like the Humvee and engine turbines. Basically there is one fuel used for Army aircraft and support equipment, vehicles, and generators. Jp8 is good stuff. It's supposed to be dispensed with anti-fungal and a de-icer like PRIST. An old motor sergeant said that he was part of the "red ball express" and for some reason the correct fuel wasn't available. They mixed up a batch of gasoline and 90 weight gear oil and were on their way. Said it smoked pretty bad, but got the job done. Hm.

#2 in most of the USA is about 47 cetaine there are several types of mineral oil, mineral oil is way more refined than diesel, so some types are edible, and used as a laxative, or sun tan lotion and some are used as coolant, or lubricant in the food service industry, and is a major component of hydraulic fluid. warning, some hydraulic fluids are made fire resistant, and will not burn well at all. you can try a burn test. I prefer to use #1 to cut my oil with, but is costly, RUG will thin the oil's viscosity some, that's why I try to get 0-20 WT or ATF, I use a double dose of 911 or similar fuel additive to make me feel better, and have a drain to remove free water that may drop out of the mix. (from collecting from rain wetted barrels) and filter to 10 microns when dispensed, IMO that most any motor, conventional oil, or synthetic could be burned in the summer up to 70%, :-blah:-blah:-blah my source my have dried up. :-arrgh:-X16:'(

I myself think you would be fine running 2 gallons per tank. ATF has a lot of detergent in it and should help clean stuff up I would think...

I have heard of using ATF in your engine just before an oil change to help clean it some. Drain about a quart out, top off with ATF then run it for a bit. Then drain and refill with fresh oil & filter. I have done it. Never have heard what the magic # is for time or miles. Since I have been using Pennzoil/ Shell with the cleaning additive I no longer use ATF. I really like that oil.

What other kind of additives are you using aside from atf

I myself run no other additives. I have mixed in a small amount of acetone. Like a couple shots per gallon to thin it. I did buy some diesel 911 just in case for winter. Didn't need it. Intact the truck ran well all winter. I did cut back on mixing in oil though as it was getting hard to start in the really cold days. Yet my truck is hard to start in summer. I need to redo my return lines and O rings. Then I want to check the glow plug system over.

I have done some Google searching and there is a lot of info on this subject. I don't buy into the fact that running oil/atf in these trucks for fuel will harm them. I feel it helps lubricate the pump and saves on my fuel cost. If I could get more oil I would to run.

So a little update, I've been running 50-75% clean/new atf and the truck has never ran this good. I had a little rough idle to where you could see the antenna move side to side... completely gone now! Runs so smooth, quite still the same amount of power as well

Good to hear, mine is hard to start when I run 25% oil. Yet it's always hard to start. I need to double check my GP system and redo my return lines.

I thought about running Waste Motor Oil. Might smoke a lot tho

get the magnets out of blower motor or window motor. They are real stout. I always save these.

I would stay away from acetone as it swells nitrile seals and may damage fuel pump diaphrams. IMO that the slower longer burn is also quieter and when my bro ran some of my blend in his rig, he saw a little higher egt's so that might prove more power but with nothing but a butt dino can't know for Shure:-X19.

I typically run and, oil here truck is happy as can be

i was thinking about getting one of these and then running as high of a percentage of WMO as i can in my 6.9:
Compact Black Diesel Processor No Bucket

I would get a centrifuge. High-PSI(~1800 for the 6.9) injection pumps do not like metal shavings and particles and will wear quickly.
If you spend the money on a centrifuge and get all the crud out, the IP and injectors should last a *lot* longer.

Also, the solenoids inside the DB2 pumps will attract metal shavings on the /return/ side of the pump, and can make them fail or jam. I've heard of them being covered in shavings from running (improperly filtered) WMO.