I want to DIY convert 96 powerstroke to WVO... Looking for help
 

I have a 1996 powerstroke, 7.3L with 215k. I bought the truck as a fixer upper. Knew nothing about these trucks until I bought it and joined this form. I've learned a lot by asking questions and doing a lot of reading. I've had the truck off the road for a while now. I will be driving it again in a couple weeks and I've been wanting to convert it since I bought it. That being said...

I have done a ton if research on WVO. From the collection process(where/how to get it, what to look out for), building a filtration/dewatering system(knowing when you've got good clean oil), and the only iffy part is the system in the truck......
..... In the truck I pretty much understand the two tank setup which is what I was going to aim for. My truck already has two tanks. (Any suggestions on what I should do with those two tanks? Because I've been thinking I want to find a plastic tank or have aluminum one made to fit in my bed. Would like to hear what people did who had the two diesel tanks like me. What kind of heating element works best? I thought of using hot water heater probes in the side of the tank... Then realized that's a lot of oil to heat at once and saw some people heated the oil in the lines somewhere in between it leaving the tank to fuel bowl. Fuel bowl....
I understand this is where fuel is pumped to where it then is dumped into the engine? What needs to be done exactly to convert the truck? I need to bring in wvo lines and diesel. And the heating using the engine coolant? Really do not understand how that works but maybe I don't fully understand how the engine coolant works to begin with?

If anyone happens to be in the process if doing this or has done it and has pictures showing the install, I would love to see them! I'm the kind if person that if you can show and I can see what your talking about then I will get it. Picture of parts, what's I should stay away from, what type of hose should I use? I remember seeing something about hose fittings and connectors? Not to use a certain metal?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I love working on my truck and think this would be a cool project to do. I'm very hands on and determind to learn so please don't tell me I'm better off going out and buying a kit. I've seen people build their own for a fraction of the kit price and it really doesn't seem that hard to me... It would all make more sense and knowing what I am trying to accomplish would make for an easier install. I've tried to give detailed info on what I don't fully understand so any and all input would be great!

I've read about a lot of people's builds but this one stood out to me... Very detailed and has a whole parts list... But it's a cummins. I don't know too much about cummins... Would this guys set up be tweaked to work in a powerstroke?
http://www.burnveg.com/wvo-conversion.htm

I can't help you with the SVO conversion since I make biodiesel, but maybe someone who can help will chime in. Do you have a WVO source confirmed? I've seen this as the biggest obstacle for most people. It would be a shame if you went to the trouble of converting your truck only to find you are unable to secure oil. If you're really serious about going forward with the conversion, you might as well start knocking on some doors, making contacts, establish relationships, and start setting up a collection system and agreements. It sounds like with the right guidance, you're the type of person who has the ability to get the conversion done. So while you're doing that, you might as well start building up your oil supply.

You are on the right track, but you need to keep researching before tackling this DIY conversion.

It might be a good idea to have a plastic or aluminum tank in the bed of your truck until you get all the bugs worked out of your system before doing a more permanent under-mount tank.

DO NOT use the stock mild steel 2nd tank for your WVO. I'm sure if you are researching this, you already know about polymerization, and that you CANNOT use brass, copper, or mild steel anything. If you had never heard of poly or chicken skin, drop everything and start reading up on that.

As for your tank heating, the simplest solution is a Hotfox or WVO-Designs Hotstick fuel pickup. I've mounted mine horizontally on all my veggie rides, so I get the added benefit of heating my veg in the tank with the whole heated fuel pickup tube.

A brief overview...

You'll need to figure out if you want HIH or HOH or TOT or whatever heated fuel lines. I use simple 3/8" dia aluminum bendable hose, since it's cheap and easy to install.

You'll need a heated filter head, and something that isn't copper or brass. Aluminum or nickel plated works well. DO NOT run WVO thru your stock fuel filter.
Depending on your climate, you'll need 30-50 plates of heat exchangers. It's tempting to use brass since they are cheap, but go nickel-plated.

You'll need a separate pump. There's a guy in the Ford Diesel forum (I forget the name) that sells these at a reasonable price. Duralift something or other.

Lastly, you'll need some selector valves. I use Hydroforce valves and WVO Designs valves. I can usually put about 150,000 miles on a Hydroforce valve before a solenoid or plunger malfunctions. BE SURE to use Viton seals on your hydro valves.

Once again, DON'T make the common mistake of using steel fuel lines and steel tanks.

When installing, splice in your valves just after the Diesel Fuel filter but before the IP. Have the default valve setting on Diesel, so if your system fails, it will default to the stock setup.

Here's a diagram I made a long time ago for my Jetta TDI, but it still applies for my van and your truck, just scale things up.

You are in LUCK brother! I just finished the sweeeetest WVO conversion ever done on an OBS 7.3. Here's a link to the build thread:

wyomingowen's Vegistroke install

There are several ways to skin this cat, but this is what I recommend:

First, do an e-fuel conversion and delete the factory mechanical fuel pump and fuel filter. In the above conversion, we used an Air Dog system (for a 6.0 ;)) - but this can be done using a stock electric pump from a late-model 7.3, a fuel pressure regulator and your choice of filters. Something like the WIX 33972 for a pre-pump filter and there are limitless options for the post-pump filter (needs to be6-10 micron absolute-rated). You'll install a check valve between the final filter and the engine - this prevents VO from ever getting into the diesel system.

Like mentioned, you'll want an aluminum veggie tank - but we have used stock (poly/plastic) Excursion tanks in the spare tire/stock rear tank location. The VO-side will look like the diesel-side, with filters, pump, FPR, etc.

Then, you need enough heat in the VO system to get cold, thick VO from the tank thru the filters and up to the injectors. In the above conversion, I designed an aluminum tank with a HE inside it and used a Hot Fox heated fuel pick-up, then TIH (tube-in-hose) heated fuel line up to the Vegistroke manifold. The Vegistroke V3/V4 system is the coooolest way to do the veggie side. The V3/V4 modules have the filters, pump, FPR, CV, etc built in. There is also a purge valve that opens and allows diesel to flow thru the engine and back to the VO tank - rapidly removing all the VO from the engine before you shut the truck down.

That thread is pretty nice.

Just a question, why with all the copper coil? I've found aluminum is cheaper and easier to bend/install.

Good question! You could certainly use aluminum. I find the copper is a little more rigid/sturdy than comparable aluminum tubing. There is no problem bending 3/8" copper the way I did - but 1/2" or bigger is another story! Cost difference is minimal, but copper is a little higher. (that tubing was 20ft for $25 IIRC at homecheapo and I get thick-walled alum tubing for about $1/ft from mcmaster)

SkySkiJason, what do you think you have as far as cash into your conversion?

I have worked on a few bio diesels over time and wow what a mess and smell in units.if used in very cold weather,trouble because of procedures that must be followed before shut down.The truck is always started on reg.diesel then bio switched on after motor warmed.Very hard on injectors.I would never do this but if no problems,great mileage for sure.

You'll spend $2k to $4k to 'do it right'. After well over 300,000 miles burning VO, I have all but forgotten my initial investment. If you drive much, you WILL get your money back - and lots more. My advice is do the conversion as well as possible - for me that means OE or BETTER quality on every component. Going 'cheap' is much more likely to leave you stranded or cause you unnecessary repairs...

Figure how much you spend on diesel now and estimate you'll burn VO 75% of the time to roughly calculate ROI. If you have a long daily commute or take longer trips - you will likely use VO more than 75% of the time. I regularly spend more on oil changes than I do on diesel. My personal best was going 10,000 miles on a single 38 gal tank of diesel. :-X22

Soon, there may be a new turn-key PSD kit on the market that is significantly less expensive than what is currently offered... :-innocent

Lol. There are lots of ways to do this WRONG, I have seen many of them in person!! I also personally know dozens of people burning straight veggie oil (not biodiesel) totalling 100's of 1000's of miles. There is no mess or smell about my truck - except the appetizing aroma from the tailpipe!! :-X04 Over the years, several 'diesel techs' have looked under the hood of my trucks and questioned if there was in fact a conversion. My conversions look STOCK under the hood and there is literally nothing in the way of routine (or extreme!) maintenance.

Not hard on injectors at all. In fact, with waaaay higher lubricity than pump diesel - VO may be easier on injectors than diesel. I know several people with high-mileage trucks that have over 100k miles on veggie. Again, many people do this wrong and don't have as good of luck. Boil-Out and other caustics used to clean fryers will destroy injectors - ya need to know stuff like this before you start this adventure!!

You are correct about 'procedure'. On a PSD, we switch back to diesel and use a bypass valve to 'purge' all of the VO from the engine before shutdown. This valve is open for about 20 secs, then we let the engine run another minute or so. The fancier systems do all of this automatically after you remove the key (and as you walk away) - but I am easily trained and spend more time laughing at myself for trying to do this in other vehicles than I do worrying I'll remember on my own! :-roll