Truck suddenly started to crank really hard, no start
 

Please help I'm at a loss here. I started my truck after sitting all week and I noticed it seemed like the batteries a little tired . Truck still started no problem and I drove to a store, started no problem once again till I got to my mothers house. After working there @9 hours I go to start it and it turned over fine for about a second then it started turning really hard. Seems like something was holding the engine back from turning. I though it was the batteries and swapped them out today. It has a little more pep when turning but not like it should be. I kept cranking for a while and it sounded like it wanted to fire bit it just wouldn't. I am over due for an oil change and fuel filters. Would theses make this happen, also I've been meaning to clean my EGR not sure if that could cause it. I haven't seen a post yet that described this kind of cranking.

Have you noticed any Smoke???

Maybe something on the drive belt is seizing up

What Year

and Need some Gauges to play a SGII or DashBoss

www.scangauge.com
www.dashboss.com

theres others out there and SGII is fastest thing advalible from Autozone But its worth the money

What rpm are you getting to when cranking?

I have learned a lot from DieselTechRon. I even purchased the Milwaukee battery powered ratchet that he uses in all his videos. He will explain to you all the various ways you can check your truck for a no start. Excellent information here...

Troubleshooting - Part 1

Summary: Covers the Scangauge II, monitor all the vitals to monitor no-start. FICM Sync, FICM Main Voltage, ICP and IPR.

Need to listen for Fuel Pump.
Need to listen first for Injector Clatter when Key On Engine Off. Sound normal? Check FICM Voltage at this same time. Do you have 48 volts during clatter? Does it maintain 48 volts?
FICM Voltage - NEVER drops below 45 Volts while key on, engine off (KOEO) cranking & running. At any point, if it drops below 45 volts, you have FICM failure. More steps needed to be sure.
FICM Sync - Should be 1 while cranking.
ICP at KOEO - Should be 0 to 15 (Should be UNDER Atmospheric Pressure) Exception is 03 or 04 with new style sensors may read 50-60psi Key On Engine Off. ICP while cranking - ICP needs to hit 500 psi just to start and idle. ICP will be approximately 1,000 up to 3,000 psi going down the road depending on load.
IPR - If it's not starting, you should see 85% when cranking, NEVER hit 15 or 85% while running. You should see 35-40% with a good engine (no leaks) on startup.

If you have an IPR and the screen is broken, you can try and find the piece that is inside and clogging the IPR, you can replace the screen without replacing the IPR. If you can't find the piece, you'll likely have to replace the IPR. If you have low ICP, or your IPR hits 85%, it's probably because it's not seating. The IPR is a shutoff valve. You can push it from the screen side with a screwdriver and you should feel the plunger move. If it doesn't move, it's stuck and needs replacing.


Troubleshooting - Part 2

Summary:
Scangauge II will assist in preventing breakdowns. You can monitor FICM Voltage, Injection Pressure, if you have a leak developing. Make sure your IPR never hits 15 or 85% while running. If so, do you have Base Oil Pressure, do you have a leak? If you monitor these along with EOT, VGT, ECT. You can diagnose your own vehicle. FICM must be SYNC, or it will never start either.

If it is an 03, early 04 MY 6.0, and you have no FICM Sync, going with the odds, it's almost always the wire loom. (It still can be the FICM), but the most common short is at the EBP sensor and wire where it drops down to the cam sensor. Other common areas are by the oil filter housing or on the ficm. Check all connections at FICM. If it is intermittent, check the bolt on the upper top corner of the valve cover. If someone replaces it with a stud, the wire loom crosses over this point and rubs... more info in video.

IPR valve is the problem about 20% of the time on all trucks and vans. All years. If you had someone who recently oil cooler or the valve cover off or the injectors, you have the possibility of contamination. Pull the IPR and inspect the screen and clean out/replace the valve.



Summary: If you don't hear it running, check your fuel bowl anyway (by removing the upper fuel filter) If it is full, leave the cap off, put the keys in your pocket and use the starter wire on the passenger side to turn the motor over. (details in video) If the fuel leaks down, you likely have a broken injector tip.

Troubleshooting - Part 3



Compare yours with these:

Normal ICP and IPR values with 15w 40 oil ?

Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
Cold engine high idle ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
Warm engine high idle ICP= 735psi IPR 28%

A seized pulley, like the one on the a/c compressor, can slow or even stop the engine from cranking. A quick way to check is to pop the belt off and see if it cranks normally and starts.

If that doesn't yield anything, I would check the starter. Monitoring the battery voltage with a dvom while cranking will show a bad starter. If the batteries are good, cranking voltage shouldn't drop much below 10.5-11v. If it drops below 9.5v, the engine won't start and an excessive draw from a bad starter is the most likely cause.

Serpentine belt
 

Dumb question but is it ok to start the engine without the serp belt on?

I geuss my first response never posted. It's an 04 and no smoke when cranking. I'm hoping it's a seized pulley or starter. My A/C died on me a couple months back and kept popping fuses so I figured I would check it in the spring when I have time. So I'm hoping maybe that seized up. Thanks for all the info I'll look into it all. Hopefully it's not something too expensive or it's going to be sitting for a long time.

Yes start it!!

That's how to check for frozen A/C Pumps, Pulleys etc.......

You won't run it for long just see if the thing goes easier with the belt off

I think we are on the same page tonight!!

Great post (again) .......... a good place to start troubleshooting based on the OP's described symptoms (before getting into the complicated recommendations, lol)!!!

It is likely he is not getting the 150 rpm (min) necessary to start.

(edit - especially likely after reading post #7)

I guess Post #2 is "Chopped Liver"

Just kidden good to see we all are on the same track

I think you might get lucky and just need a compressor clutch kit, or at worst a complete compressor.

Bwahahahahaha But Benny, don't you love chopped liver??? I know I've learned to over the years..........NOT.

Benny - The last couple of posts I have asked for information and not said why - Daniel added the words for "why" and "how to test" - thus the reason for my post #9 (it is complimenting him, not ignoring your post). btw - his post adds more help to both our posts.

The chopped liver statement is usually for when the OP ignores good advice. With that said, it would be helpful if he posted an rpm number during a no-start!

Yes... Thats all covered in those videos...

Sent from my ANDROID using IB AutoGroup

I don't think anyone got "chopped livered" in this one. LOL

Benny, Bill, Mark and I are all trying to help the OP get back up and running.