Time to jump back in
 

Hey all, I sold the 6.0 last year and have been using a 454 gasser to pull my 5er. Needless to say it's just not cutting it. I have found a 96 reg cab 4x4 5speed with 195k on the clock. The price is right so I'm needing some insight on anything I should be on the lookout for. I have read through the stickies and tech section. Throw me some knowledge if you would.

Thanks

Mud

Personally, I'll never go look at a Powerstroke again without bringing my laptop and AE with me. Would have saved me a world of headache if I had known about AE and done it before I bought my '94.

AE? please explain

and what would I look for?

This Ford Powerstroke Diagnostic Scan Tool - Auto Enginuity - Little Power Shop

1. Insist to start it up on a cold soak, walk away if the engine is already warm.

2. Test drive it like you stole it, peddle to the floor (cold engine too) and watch the tac .. it should go smoothly up to red line.

3. Overall interior condition is a good indication on maintenance from the owner. If it's crap then probably something else is been poorly maintained.

4. Look out for wires dangling from underneath the dash, maybe lots of after market stuff installed or some other issue.

I tend to take a different approach to buying these trucks. I would rather pay the right price for a truck that is equipped the way I want and fix a few things. As long as the truck is reasonably sound mechanically, I don't mind fixing some things. Granted that is partly because I fix most things myself and partly because I am afflicted with some kind of OBS PSD affliction that makes me enjoy working in these things.

That being said, here is the list of things to look at from the archives:

Good luck with the decision.

ThingsToLookForWhenBuyingAUsedPowerStrokeDiesel

Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

Yup; its an active scan tool. Can tell you real-time readings from every sensor in the truck.

A 454 is not "cutting it" and you're looking at a 96 Powerstroke?

That 454 will run circles around ANY diesel pickup through the late 90's including ANY 7.3L through 03 until you put a lot of money into one.

Are you sure there's nothing wrong with the GM? Be prepared to be disappointed.

I'd have to disagree on the 454 running circles around it . I used a 454 few years ago to pull approx 10k. From Charlotte to Atlanta did fairly close to same pulling. But got 6 mpg. My truck got 11+ mpg with same trailer doing the same trip

I think Cleatus was speaking about pulling ability, not fuel mileage.

My only experience with 454 were with hot rods etc.
I did drive a 25' camper with a 454 once and it had plenty of umph. It did get TERRIBLE mileage tho.

If you get a completely stock 94-97 7.3 it will seem kind of sluggish.
If everything is sound on the truck you can somewhat solve that sluggish feeling by getting an aftermarket intake, exhaust, and small set of stage 1 injectors.

That will give it a few more ponies and improve towing capability.
That being said I wouldnt be scared to get one.. they still can pull really well.

I got it bought today. She fired up easily after sitting for a couple of weeks, motor was cold to the touch. She has been garaged all her life and the exterior is in immaculate shape. Steering was tight a/c works, lots of documented front end work in the last year, new clutch. I'm really excited about this project. I'm going to order Corebleau bucket seats next week and start work on the interior first. This is a long term project that I want to turn into a fire breather. I'll keep updates as I progress

What would be some motor mods I could start researching. For now I don't want to push her too hard but some extra umph would be nice.

AE will not communicate with a '94 unless the obd II Chanel has been opened in the pcm same with '95 and early '96. so taking your laptop is worthless unless the pcm has been re flashed.

Good for you Mudmagnet. Welcome to the OBS game, lol. A couple of good building block motor mods would be to look at a 6637 or AFE air intake from Riffraff and a 3" Downpipe and 4" exhaust. That along with A set of gauges, and a TS 6 position chip and a T-500 HPOP would be a great foundation. It just depends how much you want to spend!

Thanks DIY. The po had just installed a new downpipe I didn't think to ask it's origin bit I'll call to find out. I think I will go with intake and exhaust and build from there. What are some good gauge clusters to look at, and what would you recommend for type Pyro,oil, ect.