Finalizing maintenance and modifcation list before starting next project
 

So, I figure that some of the newbies may have not seen these quite yet but I figured it would be a good time for me to re-cap before moving into the next string of modifications and get some insight on possible other things to perform. Figured I'd post it and let people put in their opinion on the listed system before moving to the next.

Oiling system -

Recommended:

Drain and refill oiling system with Rotella T6 5W-40
Motorcraft oil filter
Motorcraft oil filter cap
Fumoto oil drain valve
Motorcraft updated oil cooler kit
Motorcraft updated STC fitting kit (05-up)
Motorcraft updated dummy plugs (04-up)
Motorcraft updated stand pipes (04-up)
Motorcraft updated turbo oil feed line
Motorcraft updated turbo oil return line
Motorcraft updated oil dipstick (03-06)

Optional:
Add Rev-X or Hot Shot Secret to oiling system
Install aftermarket metal oil filter cap (BPD, Sinister)
Install aftermarket metal oil fill cap (BPD, Sinister)
Install aftermarket bypass oil filter setup (BPD, Sinister, Amsoil)
Install aftermarket oil cooler assembly (IPR or BPD)
Install aftermarket high pressure oil pump screen (IPR)
Install aftermarket high pressure oil delivery system (Diesel Site)
Install aftermarket high pressure oil pump (03-04 trucks) (Diesel Site)
Upgrade to 05-up high pressure oil pump (03-04 trucks) (OEM parts)

I think about everyone on here knows about using Rotella T6, Rev-X, OEM filters, OEM filter cap, and a Fumoto drain valve, so I'm not gonna go into that. Hot Shot Secret is also preferred by some people, so it really seems to be just a preference thing anymore. The updated STC fitting, HPOP screen, dummy plugs, stand pipes, turbo feed and return lines, IPR screen, and dipstick all make sense. They were parts that were re-designed and updated by Ford. They are things that should be installed during an oil cooler job as most of them can easily be accessed during this process. As far as the updated parts thing - from what I can tell none of those parts made it onto any 6.0 besides the oil feed line. Late 06 and 07's had them from what I've read along with possibly the dipstick. I know without a doubt the updated oil cooler, STC fitting, HPOP screen, dummy plugs, stand pipes, oil return line, and IPR screen never made it on a 6.0. They were all parts that were created after the 6.0 finished its production run. Also, just to clarify, the HPOP screen is the same as the oil cooler screen. Some people just refer to it differently. The updated oil cooler kit (11 row) comes with the updated (stainless) oil cooler screen. Also, the updated STC fitting kit (stronger) comes with the updated (stainless) IPR screen as well.

There are the optional metal caps out there. They are generally for the guys who are adding accessories like oil temp gauges, bypass oil filtration setups, etc. Generally the plastic caps don't have any issues unless someone is over-tightening them. I myself can't justify the price of the metal caps for looks-only. The bypass oil filter setup seems to just be one of those extra "things" you can install if you have the money. These trucks aren't fans of extended drain intervals, and it's been shown the OEM filter does a perfectly adequate job of filtering the oil, especially if you are using a good oil like Rotella T6. There's quite a few people out there who advise against the bypass filters as no matter what the 6.0 shears oil. Diesel Site just recently released the high pressure oil delivery system and in theory it's cool idea. Apparently it's only useful for the guys with 195 or larger injectors though and that the factory HPO system (especially 05-up) can easily handle things up to that point. I would highly recommend the Diesel Site HPOP for the 03-04.5 guys who need to replace their pump as the OEM pump has a much higher failure rate than the 04.5-up guys. Also, you have the option to upgrade to the later pump as well but it's very involved and most likely not going to be worth it. IPR recently released the extreme duty oil cooler screen and although it makes sense, the OEM oil cooler screen was updated to a stainless steel mesh to prevent issues. To me the oil cooler screen is going to be more of bling item as I haven't heard of the updated oil cooler screen failing unless there were other bigger issues with the truck.

The oil cooler debate is a very heavy one around here. You have 3 setups generally - OEM, IPR's remote setup, IPR's replacement oil cooler, and BPD's air/oil setup. The OEM setup has been shown to work perfect with proper cooling system maintenance, and everyone here knows how it works. Ford has an updated oil cooler out now, so a lot of people choose to simply replace it for peace of mind. IPR has what appears to be a great setup with their external cooler setup, but has draw-backs. It doesn't really provide any additional oil cooling ability, just makes it easier to replace the oil cooler down the road. It requires you to run the 100% filtration setup and makes it harder to perform normal oil changes, plus it's a bit pricey and hasn't really been proven well. I DO NOT recommend this setup as it is very unproven. IPR also has their replacement cooler for the OEM setup with larger passes. Problem with this is it lowers the coolant's ability to cool the oil and IPR does NOT recommend it for towing, so I also DO NOT recommend this thing either. BPD's setup is great and works extremely well, but you lose the ability to warm the oil using the cooling system and it may not be a good idea for those of us in very cold weather, plus it's VERY costly.

Here's what my list looks like at this point for the oiling system:

Perform routine oil change and inspection using Rotella T6 oil, REV-X, and Motorcraft OEM oil filter (every 5,000 miles)
Motorcraft oil filter housing cap (85,923)
Fumoto oil drain valve (85,923)
Motorcraft updated oil dipstick (86,264)
Motorcraft oil pressure switch (81,362)
Motorcraft updated oil cooler kit (89,717)
Motorcraft updated high pressure oil pump STC fitting kit (89,717)
Motorcraft updated high pressure dummy rail plugs (89,717)
Motorcraft updated high pressure stand pipes (89,717)
Motorcraft updated turbo oil feed line (89,717)
Motorcraft updated turbo oil drain line (89,717)

Rev-X and the others like it should be on an optional list.

Josh

While I would generally agree it's a product that I feel actually works in our trucks and there's been so much resounding feedback on it that I think it warrants being in the recommended.

From the IPR horse's mouth:

Christ, you're right. I completely forgot IPR has their own actual oil cooler as well with the bigger passages. What I was referring to up there was about their external oil cooler kit. I don't recommend their oil cooler either. I went back and edited the first post to include this information.

Before I head to bed tonight I'd like to get a head start on the next list as it's an easy one. Figured people can comment on the oiling system still as well.

Exhaust system -

Here's what I've got:

IPR passenger side up pipe (89,717)
Motorcraft passenger side up-pipe bolts (89,717)
MBRP 4” aluminized steel single side off-road no muffler exhaust system (includes piping, hangers, and clamps) (89,717)
MBRP 4” to 6” 12” long dual walled polished exhaust tip (includes clamp and pipe) (89,717)
Gauge to monitor exhaust gas temperature (I'm using Glowshift presently)

I went with the 4" exhaust mostly due to price as there's really no performance gain from the 5" exhaust. Most people get the 5" setup just for sound really as it provides a deeper tone than the 4", but it's also about double the price. There's tons of ways to do the exhaust - side exit, stacks, single rear exit, dual rear exit - it's all just preference. The main thing performance wise is just removing the cat and muffler and having the 4" downpipe. I simply chose MBRP for their pricing and excellent product. There's many other companies out there to go through, just do your research first. You can also get it in different grades of metal and finishes, once again it's preference. The up-pipe will most likely come with your EGR delete, so whatever company you choose will dictate that. I like IPR's up-pipe because of the 1" flange and the weld quality and I went with their GEN 2 EGR delete as well. There's many different companies who supply pyrometer gauges to measure exhaust gas temp but the recommended install location has always been the driver's side manifold right before the up-pipe section. You can do digital or analog gauges for it or you can get a temperature probe for whatever monitor you're using. I myself just prefer the analog needle sweep and went with Glowshift setup.

Bumping this up for opinions before I add more to it tonight!

WTF?
15 Quarts of Rotella T6 = approx. $80
RevX Qty 2 4oz bottles = approx $65
FL-2016 Filter = approx $20.00

Total = $165 every 5,000 miles?

I wouldn't spend money on that RevX unless I experienced issues, it would be a short term fix. Unless someone can convince me that it's needed EVERY oil change? That's just throwing money out the window.

Cody just a minor thing: the updated dipstick did come on the later trucks, don't know when they started but mine had it (6/06 build '07 my)...

I don't plan on any oil additive until I have signs I need it, if ever, so I think it should be on the optional list too (as needed). My $.02

I'm just trying to figure out what the purpose of the list is?

Rev-X isn't mandatory, neither is the dipstick, nor are standpipes and dummy plugs.

No need to update the turbo oil feed or drain either.

STC is a darn good idea.

Patent oil filters and OEM style oil cap are strongly encouraged, as is 5w40. But I'm not going to run 5w40 in the summer.

Fumoto drain recommended as well? Sheesh...

Josh

Also rev-x isnt $65 every oil change. Its only $65 for 2 bottles for the first oil change, after that you only need 1. But i agree, it shouldnt be needed for every oil change unless you are just holding off on injector repairs

And quality oil, changed reasonably frequently with factory filters, barring another oil side issue, should do just that...

On edit: I'm talking if you don't already have issues, you may be coming from the point of if one already has issues?

Im having injector issues, but i dont feel like buying rev-x really. i just keep my oil changed every 5k and ill have the passenger bank replaced when funds allow

I would try the spool polishing method before plunking down cash for injectors. It would just cost some o-rings, sealing washers and some fine emory cloth.

Josh

I was at the truck stop today and saw
Rotella 15/40 synthetic,your thoughts?

I don't believe that is the full synthetic. Unless it's changed. 5w/40 is their only synthetic T6.

It was and it was $38 a gallon!

T6 Full synthetic is the usual 5W40 and a new 0W40.

T5 is available as a semi-syn 10W30 or 10W40 or a weird 0W40 CH4 Canadian brew.

Regular Dino is 10W30 and 15W40 along with 30 straight weight

Josh

Honestly, if I hadn't noticed a difference using it I wouldn't. For me an extra 30 dollars during an oil change that happens once a year is little money for extra insurance. Smoking is throwing money out the window. This is at least something that's been pretty well proven to work. I actually did have stiction issues when I first got the truck but started using T6 and this and haven't since.

Yea, I do know the later trucks had that dipstick, just forgot to mention that. My 06 did not, so I'm assuming it was a late 06/07 thing, so most 6.0's won't have it. I can move the REV-X to the optional list if people are that frugal about it, but I feel it's a recommended item, especially to those with common stiction issues.

If you had noticed the list says "recommended" and "optional." I never said there was a "mandatory" list. You have to agree that the updated 6.0 parts are a good recommendation as they were made for a reason. Ford didn't revise a part and release it just because. They are parts made to fix a specific set of problems. You need to look at the list as a good recommendation of things to do. Ever noticed how many people come in here and ask what is RECOMMENDED to replace during an oil cooler or STC fitting rebuild? How many people reply with dummy plugs and stand pipes?

Most people just regurgitate and re-post what they keep seeing, like Dummy Plugs and Stand Pipes.

And sometimes new parts come out to address an issue, but oftentimes new parts come out because of different suppliers or cheaper manufacturing.

I think making a long list of expensive do's and don'ts will discourage the average 6.0 owner than it would encourage them is my $.02



Josh

But as you know the updated dummy plugs and stand pipes were created to address a known leak issue in the high pressure oil system. Most people DO need to understand these trucks have some common issues. To me this list is more for those of us who want the truck to be the best it can be. I highly doubt any of us enthusiasts have said they're like to half-ass the truck just to try and save money. Realistically I could make these lists for any car out there to point out the flaws in it and IMO that's a good thing. At least you have an idea of what to look out for as well.

Wait, are you arguing again? lol

Maybe it's just the way things were worded in the beginning just kind of irks me. I know it's your thread, but I don't know.... :-drink


Josh

Wait, are you being a dick again?

Cooling system -

Recommended:

Cooling system flush with Restore and Restore+ and distilled water
Refill cooling system with Final Charge ELC and distilled water (50/50 mix)
DFuser coolant filter kit
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle cap
Motorcraft thermostat assembly
Fumoto block drain valves
Motorcraft block drain plug o-rings for Fumoto drain valves
IPR Research Gen 2 EGR delete kit
Motorcraft updated oil cooler
ARP head studs
Motorcraft headgaskets

Optional:
Install aftermarket EGR cooler (many different companies)
Install stealth EGR delete (Motorcraft)
BPD billet aluminum water pump
BPD billet aluminum radiator
IPR coolant filtration setup (100% filtration, not bypass)

I chose CLR over VC-9 or Restore or Restore+ simply because it's more readily available, cheaper, and I keep bottles of it at home for different uses (plumbing stuff, clearing clogged heater cores, etc.). I chose Final Charge ELC because it's stocked at O'Reilly Auto Parts and is readily available as well. The DFuser coolant kit was my choice out of all the units out there due to price, including 3 filters, and being easily rebuildable if needed. Some of you may have the updated de-gas bottle and cap. Easy way to tell is if your bottle has a sticker for the levels instead of the markings on the plastic and if your cap has the white sticker compared to being all black. Thermostat is replaced during a flush as it has to be removed anyways. The Fumotos are super handy, but you may have issues with the block drains stripping out and you will need to use o-rings instead of the flat washers they come with. I chose to delete the EGR because we have no emissions testing, plus I like the idea of not needing to worry about the cooler and I chose the IPR setup because it has a one-piece setup instead of the two-piece setup and has no welds to leak and deletes the blue silicone hose. For those of you that have emissions testing you can get an aftermarket EGR cooler that functions better than the factory unit. For those people who have emissions testing that is visual only you can simply weld the ends on your factory cooler and reinstall it for a stealth delete. We all know about the updated oil cooler, ARP head studs, and using OEM headgaskets, no need to go into that. It's been shown that the OEM headgaskets don't have issues if installed correctly whereas the aftermarket options have been having issues even with correct installation.

As far as the optional things - they are not things you should tear apart the engine just to install. More-so they are upgraded parts to replace parts that may eventually fail. The water pump and radiator are not known common failure items whereas everything else I listed is. The 05 and up had an updated water pump and they very rarely fail. If you do need to replace a water pump or radiator though these would be great items to install. I myself do not like the 100% filtration setup, but some do, so it's up to you if you want to do a by-pass filtration or inline.

Here's what my list currently looks like:

Perform cooling system pressure test, flush using CLR calcium, lime, and rust remover, and fill using FINAL CHARGE Global Extended Life coolant/antifreeze and Great Value distilled water (50/50) (86,264)
DFuser coolant filter kit (includes hoses, fittings, filters, clamps, hardware, and filter mount) (86,264)
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle (87,014)
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle cap (includes seal) (87,014)
Motorcraft thermostat assembly (includes seal and housing) (86,264)
IPR GEN2 EGR cooler delete kit (includes bypass manifold, up pipe, and gaskets) (89,717)

I bet you keep it next to the bath salts.

CLR=20% lactic acid

Restore Plus = 30% citric acid

I guess you could use cheddar cheese or lemon juice to flush it too. If you work out a lot, you should have lactic acid in your urine, bottle that up and you could probably save a ton on your car insurance!

U mad bro?

I think he's mad bro

Next thing you know the_auto_tech will be telling us the only difference between a rectal thermometer and an oral one is the taste... lol

Cody, The one thing that sticks out on your lists is how many things are year dependant; while you do spell out a lot in the text, the to-do list feel of it is somewhat lost. Have you thought of breaking the lists up by year ranges and perhaps using a footnote style for notes/qualifications?

On the cooling list specifically let's just say EGR delete for example. May not be needed at all on an '03, many states (more all the time) will not pass you emissions-wise with a delete. So I'd suggest the recommended list be to put on a bullet proofed EGR cooler (there are many to chose from) if you have the square style. And put on the optional list the delete options, again footnoted as to the whys/pros/cons.

For me it's easier or more logical to see my year, what you recommend doing or checking, and then the particular footnotes pertaining to those items; and then doing similar for the optional stuff -- reading through the text and trying to figure out if it applies or doesn't gets confusing, at least for me it does. And I think you are intending these as sort of new owner checklists, am I correct?

What do you think? I realize this would be a bunch of work for you to re-format... :-X18

No need to lower yourself to the pi$$ing contests -- the other boards/forums have plenty of that if one wants to engage that way.

Why are you so damn mad? If you don't have anything useful to post in this thread stay out of it.

Scott, I will re-format the list eventually here. This right now is just trying to get all the information together and a list of maintenances and modifications. After that I can get it more organized. This is also a way for me to continue on with my own truck as well.

Sounds good -- I think it's a worthy effort. Wish we'd do this sort of thing for the monitoring systems: SGII, DB and Torque...

I agree. Like I said, after I can get through most of the systems I will start organizing them a bit better. I'd like to have all the information on maintenance and mods so I can do it all at once instead of having to update it every day. I would assume though that I've got the oiling system, exhaust system, and cooling systems figured out at this point though.

Fuel system -

Recommended:

Motorcraft primary fuel filter
Motorcraft secondary fuel filter
Motorcraft fuel pressure regulator
Motorcraft updated fuel pressure regulator blue spring kit
Power Service Diesel Kleen during summer months (gray bottle)
Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement during winter months (white bottle)
Motorcraft updated LCF truck HFCM drain plug
FICMRepair.com 2-year premium repair service
Power Hungry Performance Atlas 40 tune
Gauge to monitor fuel pressure

Optional:
Install updated (?) 6.4 fuel rail banjo bolts (Motorcraft)
Install upgraded FICM (BPD, Swamp's)
Gryphon FICM programmer (PHP)
Install aftermarket metal fuel filter cap (Sinister, BPD)
Install regulated fuel return setup (Sinister)
Install fuel tank sump kit (Sinister)
Install aftermarket fuel air separator (AirDog, FASS)
Install upgraded fuel injectors/nozzles (many different companies)

Everyone on here by now knows the importance of OEM filters, the blue spring kit, the upgraded HFCM drain plug, and using some sort of diesel additive. I myself run Power Service because its readily available, but there's tons of different ones available. As far as the FICM goes many people go to Ed because of his prices, customer service, and excellent work. FICMRepair.com was my choice, and they offer two levels of rebuilt with difference warranty periods. Also, he is able to install PHP tunes at the time of rebuild as well. The recommended tune is the Atlas 40 because it allows the truck to remain flexible between towing and pure power. The Atlas 80 and Hercules are not recommended for trucks that tow and are considered street only tunes.

Now the optional stuff. Swamp and BPD both offer a 53 and 58 volt FICM and some people like the idea, but IMO it's just putting added strain on the system that was designed to run on a 48 volt setup. Ed used to offer these upgrades but found that it generated unnecessary heat and shortened the life of the internal parts. It may cause the injectors to work faster, but to me that also means more injector wear. The 48 volt setup has been shown to work perfect as long as the FICM continues to work as designed plus there's no way to read above 53 volts anyways. BPD has a nice case for their FICM and offers the redundant power supplies, but you have no way to tell if the power supply has failed, so it's just as good as an OEM FICM setup is IMO. The PHP Gryphon FICM programmer is for those who want to be able to cycle between FICM programs and can provide rollbacks as well. If you read down further there is more information posted about using it. The metal fuel cap can be used if you need an auxiliary port but besides that it's just bling and is pricey. The 6.4 banjo bolts seem to be a good upgrade as well since they can flow better than the 6.0 ones and they're cheap, but in research they have shown to prove no difference at all since the 6.0 fuel system is a deadhead setup. Also, some people prefer to keep the check valves that the 6.0 bolts have. The regulated fuel return, upgraded injectors and nozzle, and fuel tank sump kit seem to be more for those guys running an upgraded fuel system as I haven't seen any real reliability or fuel mileage gains from them and an upgraded turbo is highly recommended with them. It seems like a stock fuel system with the blue spring kit and good filters is able to keep up with whatever the stock turbo can do. There is more below about upgraded fuel system parts on a truck that tows.

Did a bit more research concerning injector size. Apparently it just comes down to how closely you want to monitor your EGT's and where you're gonna be towing. From what I've seen the recommended largest injector size if you're going to tow anything heavy is 155cc with a Powermax or similar turbo, but this requires close monitoring of the EGT's, especially when running through hills. My thoughts are to keep the truck as tow and daily driver friendly as possible so that I don't have to stare at the pyrometer and constantly shift it up and down or worry that someone with less experience will melt the truck towing with it.

Also, the price to do upgraded injectors isn't just in the injectors themselves, it involves an upgraded lift pump, regulated return, and turbo to match. All this together gets to be very pricey and it seems if you're not looking to pull a sled or drag race it's not needed. Upgraded injectors are approximately 1500, lift pump is around 700, regulated return is around 700, and Powermax turbo is around 1200. For me the 4100 (or more) dollars isn't worth it as these parts all go hand in hand with each other.

Builds above Electronics Utilizing Stock 135cc/Stock Nozzle Injectors:
Stock Injectors until recently have been considered limited to builds under 450RWHP - That still remains the realistic goal of those drivers not looking to make the change to higher performing injectors. They will however, allow owners who tow heavy (at or near GCWR of their trucks) to do so with little concern for the adverse impact of hotter EGTs and internal temps.

--SCT Race Programming, 135/Stock Injectors, and the Powermax 63.5x88mm
440RWHP - By Dnyo - stock fuel system

--SCT Race Programming, FICM Tuning, 135/Stock Injectors, and the MTW Stage II 64.5x88mm
485RWHP/968Ft-Lbs - by Dyno -stock fuel system (Currently this is the highest numbers I've seen on stock injectors)

--Towing Considerations with Stock Injectors
The only consideration is to have either an appropriate street (under 8-10K load, depending on tune), or designated tow file loaded via the SCT programmer. Depending on aftermarket turbocharger, for example the Durastroke, reverting to stock Ford Programming is also an option. Towing should be avoided with any high performance program, or FICM tuning above 40HP.

That's probably plenty enough for most people when you're not towing. The Powermax numbers would be slightly higher with a FICM tune as well I'm sure. Now, here's where it starts to get a bit scary when dealing with injector sizing...

Builds Utilizing 155cc/35% or 50% Nozzle Injectors:
155cc Injectors are classified the limit for those who will still use their trucks to tow heavy on a routine basis and are not chasing a higher HP goal. With the right combination of tuning 450RWHP is very achievable. These injectors can produce 500RWHP realistically with supporting modifications.

--Supporting Modifications for 155cc Injector Builds
Regulated fuel return, or complete fuel system depending on power goals.
Cold Air Intake, should you be going after the 500RWHP mark on these injectors.
Transmission issues may develop when pushing 500RWHP, depending on driving habits the 5R110 may not require immediate
attention.

--Towing Considerations with 155cc Injectors
Concern here lays in towing heavy at altitude, it would be recommended for those who pursue this course and tow heavy to talk with their tune writer to determine how much fuel will be pulled via tuning. The same guidance applies with regard to street and high performance tunes as they do with stock injectors.

Based upon what I've read and my plans for the truck to keep things completely flexible I'll be staying on a stock sized injector. As stated above I don't really have the want to build the fuel system (very pricey) or upgrade the turbo (slightly pricey) at this point simply to chase more power while not towing. My thoughts are that if you can't use the extra power when towing and you're not sled pulling or drag racing it's a lot of money spent for little gain. Also, there's no fuel economy or reliability gains to be had out of the regulated return, upgraded lift pump, fuel tank sump kit, injectors, or HPOP upgrades and having to be extremely mindful of the pyrometer kind of ruins the fun in driving the truck.

I had finally decided that I would prefer to keep the truck more flexible for towing (hey, it was made for that, right?) rather than simply shoot for more power (and problems, generally). I had settled on the SCT SF3 tuner as it easily seemed to be the best bet as far as PCM/TCM programming and can be loaded with custom tuning as well. I have not decided on a custom tuner yet, but I needed the tuner to defeat the EGR function while the truck is getting bulletproofed, plus it's useful for many other things as well. Those of you who don't already have a way to monitor engine vitals may lean more towards the TSX or Livewire as they offer real time data, but I've already got Torque setup on my phone, so I'm set. The canned tunes offer a lot and will be plenty for most people and retain all of the flexibility of the truck as far as wanting to tow, race, or just normal street driving. SCT is easily the most popular option and its priced well too.

During the truck rebuild I found that my FICM was dying and I've got 2 injectors down, so I had to decide what route to go on those as well. This was the time I began looking into FICM tunes, and found that PHP offered the Gryphon FICM tuner which would allow you use swap between any of their 4 tunes. Also, I found that using this device would also allow PCM/TCM rollbacks to earlier strategies. Ed offers a single FICM tune for 150 dollars, and the Gryphon tuner is 400 dollars + an additional 75 dollars to perform a rollback. Now, I needed to figure out if the Gryphon tuner was going to be worth the extra as we're talking a 325 dollar difference at that point.

Everyone knows that certain strategies are terrible, but others are good. It's regarded that the earlier tunes are good, and the later ones bad. Now, from what I have read, the only downsides to the latest tune (VXCF9) for the 05-07 trucks is the reduced fuel mileage and power, but the turbo vane sweep and the mild induction heating as well as the excellent cold weather starting are very nice. Some people like to rollback to the earlier strategy to gain the power and economy back, but it seems a moot point with the SCT as you gain the power and mileage back when you re-tune, especially when using custom tunes as the base strategy is nearly completely re-written minus the additional "features." Knowing with the SCT tuner and custom tunes I would be able to essentially set the PCM/TCM up in any way I wanted to I decided a rollback wasn't going to be worth it.

So, I was now in a dilemma. Do I get the Gryphon tuner for the 4 FICM tunes or just pick one? Easily the biggest thing I used to narrow it down was the fact that overlapping a FICM tune and PCM tune only returns about 25% of the FICM tune's power. This means that even with the Hercules (highest tune for the FICM) you're only talking a 15 HP difference between it an the Atlas 40 (most recommended tune). They use the same strategies, just that one creates more power than the other. If you were to use just the Atlas 40 you would gain power, be able to tow heavy (as long as you had a 4" exhaust), and gain fuel economy. If you wanted to switch the to Hercules or Atlas 80 you would gain ~15 HP but wouldn't be able to tow heavy with them. This was the point I decided that I'd just pocket the 325 dollars and save it for custom tunes and other things and just go with the Atlas 40.

I hope this helps out anyone who is confused by all the options out there. Obviously my situation may be different from yours and you may simply use the truck just for fun in which case you have a lot more options out there as far as injectors and tunes go. But for a truck that's going to tow heavy and wants to gain a bit of power, fuel mileage, and only trade a small amount of driveability it seems the SCT Tuner and Atlas 40 seems to be the way to go.

Here's what my list currently looks like:

Perform fuel pressure test
Motorcraft updated LCF truck HFCM drain plug (87,014)
Power Service Diesel Kleen during summer months
Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement during winter months
Motorcraft primary fuel filter (includes seal) (85,923)
Motorcraft secondary fuel filter (includes seal) (85,923)
Motorcraft fuel pressure regulator cover (77,643)
Motorcraft updated fuel pressure regulator blue spring kit (77,643)
Motorcraft cylinder 4 remanufactured fuel injector (includes seals) (89,717)
Motorcraft cylinder 7 remanufactured fuel injector (includes seals) (89,717)
FICMRepair.com premium 2-year warranty FICM repair service (89,717)
Power Hungry Performance Atlas 40 FICM tune (89,717)

Bump for viewing!

Braking system -

Recommended:

Hawk LTS front and rear brake pads
Slotted/cryo treated rotors (any brand will do really)
Brake system flush with synthetic DOT 4 fluid (most brands work well)
Stainless braided brake lines (useful also for lifted trucks)
Inspect and adjust rear parking brake hardware

Optional:

Aftermarket front big brake kit (SSBC, AP Racing, Wilwood)
Aftermarket rear big brake kit (Wilwood)
Cross-drilled and slotted rotors (many different companies)
Hawk Super Duty front and rear brake pads
05-07 brake upgrade for 99-04 trucks (requires 17" or larger wheels)
F-450 and F-550 brake upgrade for 03-07 DRW trucks (?)
Paint brake system components

As far as brake pads are concerned the most pushed pad for our truck is the Hawk LTS pad. I myself use them and love them. For those people who are going to tow heavy loads a lot the Hawk Super Duty pad may be a better idea, but for most trucks out there, the LTS will be more than enough and will provide better rotor life, less noise, and less dust. Realistically any good rated pad works, but these are the two that stick out the most.

As far as rotors go many people like to upgrade to a slotted and cryo treated rotor, something along the lines of ART rotors or Power Slots. They provide are more linear pedal feel after periods of braking along with a greater resistance to warpage. Blank rotors technically provide the best stopping ability as they have the most pad area, but they do not dissipate heat as well as a cross-drilled and slotted rotor will. I myself use Hart gold zinc coated cross-drilled and slotted rotors not only for the performance, but the looks as well. There are a lot of manufacturers that offer rotors at different price points, so you have to do some shopping around.

With brake fluid any good synthetic DOT 4 fluid will usually work well, just pay attention to the boiling points. I myself use VW/Audi OEM DOT 4 fluid since I get it for free, but also because that boiling points are quite high for a non-race fluid. The only race fluid I would recommend is the ATE Super Blue or Super Gold as it's the only one I have experience with and it's fairly cost effective when compared to other brands. Stainless braided brake lines require inspecting them more often, but they provide a better pedal feel and look very nice. Also, for those of us who choose to lift the truck they can be made in a size to accommodate your lift. I went with the Crown Performance lines since they made them with yellow sheathing and they can be made to what size lift you have not to mention a good price point.

The rear parking brake components have a tendency to seize and fail when the parking brake is not used often enough. Generally the levers for the shoes will freeze solid requiring removal of the hardware and a vice to free the levers. Also, another common failure is for the cables themselves to seize and become detached from the levers. Thankfully the parking brake system components are priced fairly cheap and can easily be rebuilt.

Now, the big one - brake size upgrades. The 05-07 trucks utilize a bigger brake system than the 99-04 trucks do. The calipers, rotors, and pads can be swapped from what I have read. Also, it is possible to adapt the F-450 and F-550 front brake setup onto an F-250 and F-350. It requires replacing the front axle along with the hubs/bearings/pads/rotors/calipers. The issue with this is that it requires 19.5" or bigger wheels to clear them. Lastly, SSBC and AP Racing make a 6-piston front brake caliper upgrade to fit under 18" wheels, but they do not make a matching rear brake setup and it runs around 1,500 dollars just for the 2 calipers and pad set. Wilwood makes a front and rear 6-piston brake upgrade, but it requires 20" or larger wheels and is insanely pricey, somewhere around 7,000 dollars for the front and rear setup.

Lastly, you can paint the brake components to add a bit of style to the truck. I myself went with yellow. I simply used Duplicolor Engine Enamel Primer, Daytona Yellow, and Clear. These paints have the same temperature rating as the caliper paint and they are readily available and more colors, plus you can get them from your local parts store.

Here is my list currently:

Perform brake fluid flush using Audi OEM DOT 4 brake fluid (92,117)
Crown Performance 3” extended front and rear stainless steel braided brake lines with yellow sheathing (includes hardware) (92,117)
Hawk Performance LTS front and rear brake pads (includes lube) (92,117)
Hart front and rear gold zinc plated cross drilled and slotted brake rotors (92,117)
A1 Cardone remanufactured right front brake caliper (includes hardware) (92,117)

Bump for viewing!

Transmission/transfer case/differential -

Recommended:

Drain and refill front differential with 75W-90
Drain and refill rear differential with 75W-140 (use friction modifier if equipped with Limited Slip axle or use gear oil with modifier already in it)
Upgrade to OEM 08+ finned aluminum rear differential cover (requires longer bolts as well)
Drain and refill transfer case with Mercon-rated transmission fluid
Drain and refill transmission with Mercon SP (3 times back to back after heat cycling transmission)
Upgrade to OEM 08+ transmission pan and internal transmission filter
Replace inline transmission filter (Motorcraft filter)

Optional:
Aftermarket rear differential cover (AFE or Mag-Hytec)
Aftermarket front differential cover (AFE or Mag-Hytec)
Re-gear rear differential for larger tires (generally 37" and up)
Hot-flush transmission service (non-heated flush does nothing)
Aftermarket transmission pan (AFE or Mag-Hytec)
Suncoast transmission rebuild and upgrade with billet aluminum input shaft
Suncoast torque converter upgrade

I myself will be using Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube for my differentials and will be running BG Synthetic ATF in the transfer case and transmission as it is stated to be a replacement for Mercon SP and Mercon V. The aftermarket trans pan and differential covers are essentially just bling items and cost about 5 times as much as the 08+ OEM upgrades. Only thing they offer is a drain plug and a dipstick to make a fluid change easier and they use an o-ring instead of sealant along with a port to mount a temperature sensor, all of which don't really matter to me. Most people will just do a back to back to back trans fluid drain and refill to change the fluid as a hot-flush machine is not readily available in most areas. The non-heated machine will simply push 90% of the fluid back into the flush machine rendering it basically useless. The 08+ trans filter is an actual filter like the external filter instead of basically just being a screen to filter out trees and boulders and of course the external filter requires service as well. The Suncoast transmission components are heavily recommended for those who want to push the Torqshift past its limits (generally regarded as 500WHP being the limit for it) or simply as a means to rebuild and upgrade a broken unit.

Bring this back up. Figured I'd get these two systems out of the way.

Air conditioning system

Reclaim, evacuate, vacuum test, add BG Fridgi-Quiet oil/dye, and recharge air conditioning system (94,366)
Clean air duct system of debris and mold using BG Fridgi-Fresh deodorizer (94,366)

No real upgrades or maintenance for this system besides what I listed. Just make sure everything is working.

Wiper/washer system

Set wiper blade and washer nozzle alignment and perform washer fluid system flush and fill with Rain-X 2-n-1 washer fluid (92,117)
Rain-X Latitude wiper blades

No real upgrades or maintenance here either.