2000 F350 w 7.3 no fuel in bowl
 

Hello all, I am new here and have been searching for answers all day and kept coming across you alls site. I have a 2000 f350 2 wheel drive dually with a 7.3. Yesterday it started acting like it was running out of fuel while coming down my drive. By the time I made it home (drive is about 1/2 mile long) it was shaking the whole truck. I first checked the oil level and it was just beginning to touch the "add oil" section. I went ahead and added about 1 quart of oil which brought it to the full line. I then tried to start it but it would only turn over and not try to start. I then took off and replaced the fuel filter and drained the fuel bowl. I had my wife turn the key to on where it would refill the fuel bowl but it would not add any fuel. I then checked all the fuses and found the "fuel pump relay" fuse was blown. In it was a 15amp and I saw where it called for a 20a so I replaced it, still no fuel coming into the bowl. I then checked the pink and black wires going to my fuel pump on the frame rail under the drivers side. I have power to it for 20 sec after turning the key to on and I can hear and feel the pump on. I am showing a full tank of fuel and filled it up 3 days ago and drove home with no troubles until coming into my drive. It started running very rough then lost power, now won't restart because of the fuel not being delivered to the bowl. I checked the reset on the passenger side fire wall and it was not tripped. Now I'm at a loss at what to do. I do have a hypertech programmer on it and I pulled these codes off just a little while ago. 1) P0562 Low voltage I think 2) P1249 turbo over boast 3) P0720 insufficeint output from oss sensor 4) P0503 wehicle speed sensor not reading correctly. I searched ask.com for the codes so not sure if they are correct. I cleared codes and tried to restart which failed. No codes reported now. Does my fuel tank have a lift pump inside it? I bought the fuel line take off tools incase I needed to remove them but hope some of you could tell me what to do next. Thank you, Brian

Welcome to FTE!

You only have one fuel pump.
Verify it's working by disconnecting the Vibrolock connector on the feed side of the pump and connect a length of fuel line that is long enough to reach a 5 gallon can of diesel fuel. Turn the key to RUN (don't start) and see if the fuel bowl fills up. You can leave the lid on the fuel bowl housing...you will hear if it's filling up and air is being purged from the fuel pressure regulator. If it sounds like fuel is being delivered, then you can start your truck and see it sound normal. If so, then you have a restriction in the tank and it has to come out to be fixed. Here is a link:
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

If no fuel is delivered then your pump may be faulty. You will only get 20 seconds of power to the pump and then the PCM will shut it down until the engine is started or you cycle the key again.

Good luck! :-drink

Thank you Shake n bake
 

Thank you for answering so quickly. I will check the pump in the morning. Gonna be fun to drop the tank if thats the probem. I upgraded to a saddle tank a few years ago and its full. Sucker weights a ton. I have had to clean it out before when I used some of my farm fuel and had to clean fungus out of it. Learned very quickly not to do that again. Thanks again for the info.

Fuel Pump
 

Hi.

I have a 2000 F350 4x4 superduty 7.3.

I recently had a problem that the guys here helped me diagnose and sounds very similar.

First, the fuel pump isn't in the tank on this rig...... it is along the frame rail on driver side so should be pretty easy to access.

When you say fuel pump relay fuse, are you talking #24 in the underhood distribution center? Check it again.

In my case, the previous owner had removed the fuel heater that connects to the fuel filter bowl. He didn't ziptie it to anything so it rubbed eventually creating a short. It kept blowing the fuse everytime we turned the key on so wouldn't get fuel. Once I traced down the short, fixed it and all was good.

If you are getting voltage at pump, I agree with the previous response to see if you are getting fuel from the pump itself.

If you are, it would indicate maybe a plugged fuel line between the pump and filter bowl.

here goes try number 3, keeps kicking me off the site
 

Thanks again Shake n bake and Michaelscott for replying. I tried the tricks today and these are the results. I disconnected the feed side of the pump that is located under the drivers side on the frame rail. ( I had first checked to see and I was getting power to it for 20 sec when the key was turned on). I purchased a 1/4 inch clear hose and used 4 feet of it from a clean diesel fuel tank with clean fuel. I turned the key to on and watched the fuel line. It would only pull fuel about 1/4 to 1/2 the way up the 4 foot line. I then sealed the tank and hose incase I needed it sealed up. Still no change. I then got frustrated and filled the fuel bowl and it still would not start.( not sure if I needed the pressure or what). I questioned my brother n law after I noticed that my truck has been driven 4,898 miles since I parked it and left for Afganistan. I told him he could use it if he needed it in an emergency, and he used it for almost the whole 8 months. He admitted that he let the oil get very low and did not touch the dip stick and the truck ran like crap and did not have much strength. After he had driven it like this for a week, he asked a friend who ownes the next farm over and he told him to check the oil. after he filled it up, he said the truck ran fine. He then drove it the rest of the time , about 3,000 miles or so. Fast forward to now, I know it ran like crap because the high pressure oil pump was not getting enough oil to pressurize the lines. He said he didn't have anymore trouble out of it and I haven't either until this new problem.Could they be related? Can the fuel pump work but not have enough grunt anymore to pull the fuel up? I checked again and still do not have any new DTC's. Kinda lost. What do you all think I should try next. Thank you again, Brian

Was the fuel bowl empty when you opened the lid? If so, then it sounds like you need a new fuel pump. It should suck the fuel up from a container very quickly.

If you were out of fuel...then the distribution lines and fuel galleries in the cylinder heads were dry. Filling the fuel bowl will not fill those lines because there is a check valve that closes the flow of fuel to the heads when the filter is removed....it's spring loaded so sometimes simply removing the lid allows the filter to raise enough to close that valve as well. If that is the case, then the engine will need to rely on fuel pressure from the pump to force the fuel down into the cylinder heads. It will eventually flow down there on it's own but there will be some air in there that needs to purge out or the truck won't start or run very well.

Running the truck that low on oil is concerning. The HPOP doesn't do well when oil starved. Hopefully your pump isn't damaged. Once you solve the fuel issue and the truck is running then I recommend you send an oil sample to a lab for analysis. Don't use Blackstone unless they offer a PQ Index. That is the specific test you need to determine if your HPOP is failing. ALS labs does PQ as well as many others...

If your truck still doesn't start even after you have verified that you have 55 psi of fuel pressure at the fuel bowl then it's time to connect a scan tool and look at ICP and IPR duty cycle. If the HPOP was bad it will tell us during that test. HPOPs rarely go bad...unless they are starved for oil.

Here is a good no-start diagnostic write up that I found online....
:-X22

Yes the fuel bowl was empty because I changed the filter so I drained it using the drain valve behind the filter. I then turned it over a few times so I probably dried out the motor. The truck was running pretty good before this, so maybe just a pump. And I will send off the oil. Do you happen to know who I should send it to? I am in Alabama but I assume I can ship it. And are you still thinking the pump is bad. It would not pull the fuel up the short line. Not sure why the fuse was blown, maybe from turning the pump on and off so many times in a short time?? The fuse in it was to small for what it called for. Not sure why. I have the correct fuse in each slot now.

I think the pump is suspect. You had a blown fuse so that is a clue and it should easily pick up fuel from a container without any trouble. The only caveat is that you must start the engine within 20 seconds or the PCM will turn off the pump.

I have heard reports of clogged pickup assemblies in the tank and that seems to contribute to failed fuel pumps because they have to work too hard to get the fuel to the bowl. If you replace the pump, then leave the hose in the container and cycle the key a few times (without starting). With the fuel bowl closed up, you will hear it pressurizing as the air is being purged. Once you have purged the air, then start the engine and see how it runs.

If you get that far....then you can reconnect the line from the tank and see if the engine still runs OK. If so, then you MUST find some way to check fuel pressure under load because your truck will run and drive with virtually zero fuel pressure and your pump will burn out again.

Here is a video that shows how to check fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. If you plan on keeping your truck for a while and don't mind aftermarket gauges, then Riffraff has some nice gauges for sale. Here is a link
Riffraff Diesel: Fuel Pressure 0-100 PSI

Besides transmission temp...it's probably the most important gauge to have on these trucks.

Oh yeah...here is the video from Trey. :-drink

Ok I will call Auto Zone tomorrow and see. I know they said they had 2 different pumps. And someone, not sure if it was you or not but someone said to use a certain name pump. Nust can not remember which. And yes, I will be buried in this truck. It was my fathers and mine, purchased to pull a 42ft Sea Ray boat we had. He was killed in a house fire in 2002 so I will never get rid of the truck. I have so many upgrades to it, theres no place to put them all on the site. I do have a hypertech power programmer on it, 6 inch exhaust and upvraded airraid filters and box. I have the truck back programmed to stock in case I had to take it in. So which name brand pump do you recommend? Also I will get the gauges and install them to watch the pressure. Thank again for the help so far.

I have never had to replace a pump on these trucks (knock on wood...)

However, if I ever need one then I'll probably look for a Bosch pump.
Riffraff Diesel: Bosch Electric Fuel Pump

:-drink

Thank you again. Just got off the phone with a store manager at Auto Zone and he also recommend bosch pump. He also ordered me a triple tree mount with gauges for my truck. It'll mount were what I call my "o crap" handle by the front window. I ordered the fuel pressure gauge, boost pressure and trans temp gauge. I still pull the big boat and sometimes a d5 and a td9 dozer. I have a 2011 f450 but still prefer this one. Also the video was very helpful. Sure couldn't have gotten this far without your help and my two sons (7 and 11yr) have both "helped" me each step of the way. I have been deployed their whole lives, so its giving us time to work on something together. Thanks for the help again

I had same issue a few days ago . The truck would run for a few mile then loss pressure and I would pull over cycle pump a few times build pressure and was able to get home like this . I want to put a air dog fss pump and filter assembly but cash is tight at this time ,so I ordered a after market off eBay for $37 yes it's Chinese but the zone one for $150 was to.

What is an air dog fss pump? Can't find anything on it

The fuel pump that auto zone had was $151.98. It says the operating pressure is 35 psi to 100 psi. I saw from the video that it should idle at about 50 psi. Will the computer tell this pump what pressure to use or is going to use the max pressure the pump puts out?

The PCM is only able to turn the pump on or off, it has no control over pressure.
The pump provides up to 100 psi all the time.
The FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) is located in the fuel filter housing on top of the engine. It has a spring loaded poppet that is calibrated to maintain about 55 psi in the bowl, the rest of the fuel is redirected back to the tank.
I hope the new pump solves your problem.
:-drink