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-   1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum38/)
-   -   Edelbrock 1406 Carb. (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1256699-edelbrock-1406-carb.html)

PRIMERED79 SHORT BED 07-20-2013 09:48 PM

Edelbrock 1406 Carb.
 
Just recently installed one, and so far it runs pretty good.
I'm looking for info from others who have the same carb.

My first issue is, when i tap the throttle enough, it will slam the primary's shut which kills the motor.
Anybody have any idea how to stop this?
It does not have a dash pot, so what are my options?

The second issue is... Any body do any jet and rod changes for better performance?

I have a 400 pretty stock except the carb, intake, headers, exhaust.
Just curious if anybody knows if tuning is even necessary.

I'm running my timing at or around 34 degrees, and pulling a vacuum reading of 18 Hg.

I ask about tuning because the other day when i was bringing her home, it smelt really rich. But today i bumped the timing up and took her for a spin and didn't smell any gas, so it might be OK.

fmc400 07-21-2013 08:54 AM


Originally Posted by PRIMERED79 SHORT BED (Post 13358535)
My first issue is, when i tap the throttle enough, it will slam the primary's shut which kills the motor.

This doesn't make sense. Opening the throttle should open the primary throttle plates in lock step. Even if the primaries close all the way, the curb idle speed screw should keep the primaries from bottoming out. How do you know the motor is stalling because the primaries are closing? Did you actually verify the primaries are physically closed, or is that just a guess? Most likely the stalling is a result of the motor leaning out and has nothing to do with the position of the throttle plates.


Originally Posted by PRIMERED79 SHORT BED (Post 13358535)
The second issue is... Any body do any jet and rod changes for better performance?

I have the rod/jet tackle box from Edelbrock. I just finished rebuilding mine (it's actually a 1403 for my straight six - same carburetor just lower CFM) and changed rods and jets. The tuning guide that came with the carburetor made it really easy. Rods are very easy to change but a lot has to come apart to change the jets. That's not a big deal, but if your carburetor is a few years old or has a lot of miles on it, you really should clean and rebuild it before opening it up and moving all the soot and varnish around in the fuel bowl.

Another thing to check is your accelerator pump travel; I took mine down a notch from the factory setting because it was too rich. If I backed the truck up to the garage door and revved the engine in park, it would throw soot all over the garage door.

PRIMERED79 SHORT BED 07-21-2013 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by fmc400 (Post 13359214)
This doesn't make sense. Opening the throttle should open the primary throttle plates in lock step. Even if the primaries close all the way, the curb idle speed screw should keep the primaries from bottoming out. How do you know the motor is stalling because the primaries are closing? Did you actually verify the primaries are physically closed, or is that just a guess? Most likely the stalling is a result of the motor leaning out and has nothing to do with the position of the throttle plates.



I have the rod/jet tackle box from Edelbrock. I just finished rebuilding mine (it's actually a 1403 for my straight six - same carburetor just lower CFM) and changed rods and jets. The tuning guide that came with the carburetor made it really easy. Rods are very easy to change but a lot has to come apart to change the jets. That's not a big deal, but if your carburetor is a few years old or has a lot of miles on it, you really should clean and rebuild it before opening it up and moving all the soot and varnish around in the fuel bowl.

Another thing to check is your accelerator pump travel; I took mine down a notch from the factory setting because it was too rich. If I backed the truck up to the garage door and revved the engine in park, it would throw soot all over the garage door.

When i snap the throttle pedal, the motor revs up, then as it revs down, it will rev below 500 rpm and die, it wont do it every time, but it will time to time .
I was not sure what was causing it to do that.
I know i had to put a dash pot on my 4100 to keep it from doing the same thing.

I just bought this carb and rebuilt it, so everything is new inside that can be replaced any ways. I have my acc pump on the middle hole, acceleration from a stop is good, no hesitation, and so far I'm not smelling gas like i did.

Where do i find this chart at? i looked on Edelbrocks website for any tuning info, and all i could find was cheesy videos.

Thanks for the reply.

fmc400 07-21-2013 12:12 PM

All carburetors will exhibit the behavior you describe to some degree - the carburetor cannot compensate this kind of rapid decrease and increase in vacuum. However, it should not affect driveability. If it does, it indicates a lean condition due to a marginal accelerator pump or improper float height. A dashpot can help mitigate the behavior by "softening" the rate at which the throttle is released. I don't recall seeing these sold specifically for Edelbrock carburetors.

The chart I describe was in the manual that came in the box (I bought my carburetor new). The online manual appears to have it too (link below). You'll want to look at page 12 (page 13 of the actual PDF).

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf

PRIMERED79 SHORT BED 07-21-2013 12:34 PM

FMC400, thank you!
Now the fun begins!


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