1948 Ford Starting Issues
 

Hey guys, tried to start the 48 today and had a little trouble. I hopped in, turn on the key then pushed the starter button and every time I would push the button I would get a 1/4, 1/2, or sometimes a full turn and then it wouldn't turn anymore. The battery is brand new and was put on the charger last week. The truck is a 1948 Ford F-2 with a 226 I6 and is totally rebuilt and is still a 6 volt electrical system. Oh and the ignition system has been converted to electronic rather than a point system. Any help is appreciated! :D

Sounds like it.could be a dirty battery connection. Make sure every surface is clean. That's a good starting point.

Like Bob said, cables first....they must be of proper size (big) and grounds are crucial. Positive cable to ground, right? Also your starter may be worn/dragging/gummed up.
Also you may want to verify the engine turns over OK by using a socket and bar on the crank pulley bolt. (In neutral with key off)

Does "totally rebuilt" mean the engine has been recently rebuilt? Always possible that the head gasket is leaking coolant into the cylinders. Try pulling the plugs and cranking, see if you get water out of the plug holes. Never hurts to be sure.

Ok I will clean the connections. And it does turn over sometimes but other times it does this so it does sound like a connection problem. And yes, possitive is ground too. Thanks for the help!!

You may also check the starting relay contact condition by measuring voltage drop across the contact while cranking. It should be low, ideally under 1/2 Volt or so.
Look up "starter voltage drop test" on the Internet, you'll find good explanation.

I had a similar problem in my 52 with a newly rebuilt engine. I have an Optima 6v battery with 1/0 welding cables turned into battery cables, plus good grounds. Whenever I would start the truck it would turn over slow and then stop, then turn over again and stop. Turns out the issue was a loose ground battery connection and a bad generator.

On a slight side note , but still related we used to bring a ground strap directly to one of the starter mounting bolts or weld a grounding stud to the starter housing .

Where can I post an ad to sell my truck?

Click here.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Announcements in Forum : 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Has anyone on here done a body swap by cutting a old body firewall and floor out and stripping the donor newer truck down to floor and firewall and placing old cab on retaining interior and dash of new truck. Heres a video.

[quote=pweng1;14047685]Has anyone on here done a body swap by cutting a old body firewall and floor out and stripping the donor newer truck down to floor and firewall and placing old cab on retaining interior and dash of new truck.

Probably but, No one will admit to it. }>

Has the starter itself been checked out? A 6 volt system has to be in top shape to work well. I once helped a friend try to fix a problem like this in his '50 Dodge. We went to a place called "Les's Obsolete" looking for advice and we told Les we were considering converting to 12 volts. Les got all indignant and said "There's nothing wrong with 6 volts!" "We won the war on 6 volts!"

Anyway, turned out a connection n the starter was loose. Once that was fixed, the truck cranked fine.

Y'all boys realize we're looking at an old, twice :-hijacked thread, don't we. The OP asked where to sell his non starting truck and then someone asked about a cab-frame swap.

Heh. Right.