New Diesel owner intro etc..
 

Well I finally bought my first diesel. It's a 1989 F250 4x4 7.3 NA 5 speed. I have yet to really drive the truck but so far I love it!!! I have been looking thro the forum and I feel I have a good grasp on things. I plan on using this thread as a way for me to keep track of what I have done and need to do. So far I have done just an oil/filter and air filter change. I went with Shell Rotella T 15w40 oil and Fram filters. I plan on switching to Motorcraft, Wix, or NAPA Gold filters for the next change. Any recommendations?

The truck takes a little cranking to start maybe 5 sec after the wait light goes off. I may look into the glow plugs. I know to use Motorcraft plugs.

Reading up on the timing this truck runs smooth once started. Shakes like heck while cranking but once she is running it's like a gas engine. It doesn't seem to knock like other diesels. Is the timing off? How can I check? I presume I will need special tools or take it to a mechanic.

I plan on checking over everything on this truck so any advice is great. I do keep browsing the forums and trying to learn more. I have read alot about the F250's in general.

Also is it ok to use a engine coolant that already has SCA's in it? I was once told to not even worry about it but I really would rather play on the cautious side until I really know more about the diesel engine.

What is the point of adding tranny fluid or used clean oil to your fuel. I have seen some talk about doing it and filling up the fuel/water separator filter with tranny fluid when you change it. Does this help lube the IP? Help to prolong life of injectors? :-huh

I will get picks up soon. The ones I have now are to dark.

Alot say their engines burn Shell oil in no time at all while not burning other brands. So keep an eye on it for abit, if it doesn't go anywhere, keep using it if you like it.


I would never use Fram filters ever again since I cut opened one. The oil by pass in them is made of cardboard.... and i've heard a couple times in the 87-97 F-series forum of them going bad, and the cardboard getting destroyed and ending up clogging the oil pick up on the oil pump.

I have my self used them quite a bit though with no problems.

Motorcraft, Fleetguard and Wix are the filters to use on these.


New glow plugs should help your starting along with a bump in timing advance.


Adding coolant pre-charged with SCA's is recommended, but this doesn't mean you don't need to check SCA levels regularly, and you will need to add some as time goes on. Or you can use regular green stuff, and buy SCA bottles and add it your self.

Check your SCA's at every oil change using a test strip kit you buy at a heavy truck place.

Since your new to Diesels, heres a MUST READ for any new diesel owner, especially a 7.3 owner!

Cavitation Article


Adding tranny fluid (or diesel conditioner) to your fuel tank, or when changing your fuel filter helps clean out the system and lube the IP and injectors. And when you do change your fuel filter, you have to fill it with fuel or something anyways, as you'll be cranking for ever to get fuel back up if you don't.


Also if it's never been done, if I was you I'd do it, drain the oil from your 5spd and fill it up with fresh ATF (do not use anything else but ATF in the ZF5 transmission as anything else is to thick and will not properly lube the tight clearances these transmissions have.)

Same thing for your axles if you plan on keeping the truck for a good while. Those just take regular 80W90 gear oil.


And welcome aboard! Theres no going back to gas now :D

Welcome! I've got a year into my first diesel, and love it. I'm pretty much on my first oil change and went with Rotella 30W and man it really goes through it. I've others say the same thing, but not everyone that uses it so...I've heard the Fleet charge is fine, so that's what I put in mine, but will go back to green and add SCA. I've seen what GM Dexcool will do, so I'm not a fan of extended life antifreeze. Search for AKAMacGyver's posts on timing. Probably all you need to know. I've read you run as much as 50% used trans. fluid, so that would be to just save fuel costs. Smaller amounts as a "cleaner"?. You can fill your fuel filter up at change with new trans. fluid, start it and runs till it starts to stumble, then turn off and let sit overnight. Start it up and rev it up till it burns it all out of system. Cleans your injector pump.

Welcome! Be sure to check out the new owner FAQ at the top of this forum, lots of good info there.

Run 15-40W oil, whatever flavor, they all meet the same standards.

Run any filter you like, just stay away from Fram, they are el-crapo.

DO use SCAs! DO!


:-X22

Wix / Napa gold are the best bang for the buck filters you can get, i would run one from a PSD for the extra quart. (Fram is one of the worst even for economy filters)
I also suggest Valvoline Premium Blue, also the best bang for the buck (Shell Rotella T CJ-4 is one of the worst oils to run...) As long as its a CI-4 oil youre not too bad off, but there definately IS a big difference to them.
Definately run SCAs, grab some test strips, or just flush / dump the coolant and go with pre-mixed and toss in a coolant filter.
Never hurts to check the timing, you will need a ferret adapter or someone who has one.
ATF helps clean things up, I personally am not all that sure why it works or what it cleans out, but i know from experience that ATF does help. In fact, fill the fuel filter, start it up and let it run until the ATF gets in the pump / lines and let it sit for a while, who knows could resolve your slow start issue.

Thank you all for the input. I will continue to look into these trucks and what issues may appear. It'll be hard to take me away from gas engines. I do look forward to driving this truck. Hope to have it on the road this weekend. Wish me luck. I'll get more pics over the weekend. I have a big day at the Junkyard getting needed parts on Saturday. Wooooo Hooooo!!!!!

Since you describe "shaking" while starting, your slow start may be due to air intrusion in the fuel return rail system. These engines are infamous for this, but a return rail kit, or just new hoses, viton O-rings and spring clips (the plastic "olives" and copper injector seats are usually fine) is a good idea.... especially if the PO used any small hose clamps anywhere. Bad Juju. Use spring clips only. Lack of diesel clatter is probably timing, but can also be caused by a restriction in the fuel return line to the tank. You can pull the fuel return line off at the back of the rail system and let it run freely into a jug. You will hear the difference. A restricted return line also robs power, and will eventually result in engine stall with no roughness, but will start right back up... odd and frustrating (ask me how I know). Welcome to the diesel forum! Nothing runs like a mechanical fuel injected diesel. Nothing. They have their quirks but it will make you want to forget about spark plugs in NO TIME!

Thanks for the tip Ford F834. I will look over the return lines. Any manufactures to use or stay away from? I would rather pay a bit more for quality. I hate doing a repair twice.

Best quality and price from a member here, typefour. He will set you up. Send him an e-mail. sandeater1@gmail.com. This is his member profile...Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: typefour.

I got my kit from Napa, before I knew about typefour, and it worked great, but it was really more than actually needed replaced and was $78 iirc.

Thank you Ford F839 for the info. I finally got the rear brake fixed. It stops but the pedal is very soft. I am going to try bleeding the system and giving the whole system a good look over. Drove it just down the block and back and loved it!!! I hope to put some miles on it this weekend.

New thought, the clutch pedal assembly needs work. The rod from the clutch cylinder, plastic bushing and stud on clutch pedal are all wore out. I need to replace all this so off the the junkyard I go tomorrow. I also know about the firewall flex & cracking. This truck barely flexes but I still want to get the repair kit. I know a guy on oilburners.net "freebird01" use to make these. Does anyone know if he still does or if someone else started to make them. I will look for one while at the yard but I would like to pick up a few if I could.

EDIT: I did some more searching and found a newer posting. It appears they are still made by Jason. Looks like I will be ordering one for now. Link in case anyone else is wandering. http://www.terrapinmfg.com/display.php?prod=14

Unfortunately, I think you will find that the junkyard clutch master cylinder push rods will (most likely) be in the same condition as yours. I have looked at a lot, and they have all been as you described. Furthermore, I believe they are integral with the master cylinder, and cannot be removed. Replacing the master cylinder section is a royal pain, because that particular hydraulic system is very difficult to bleed.... So much so that LMC sells pre-bled master slave cylinder units. If you find a good one, pull the whole thing.

They have a "fix it" kit with a hiem joint that you can use that alleiviates the problem. Try poking around ebay, i think thats the last time i seen it

I have seen those fix it kits. They are a bit pricey for what it is. I may have to use my brain on this one. Maybe run a brass sleve inside the rod. I'll figure something out.

I'm going to need some help on this one.

I replaced the clutch/brake assembly with a better one that isn't wore out and put in a new bushing. I still have to try and shove my foot through the fire wall in order to get it to start and shift gear. Trying to go into reverse is a joke unless the engine is turned off. I checked for flex, there is no more than what my other truck has that shifts just fine. The transmission fluid is full.

Any ideas as to what to do next? Can the master cylinder rod be adjusted? How can you tell when a slave cylinder is going bad? I've been told when they go out they go out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

It's hard getting use the shifting on this thing. In 3rd gear by 15mph.... It has 4.10 gears in the back. I'm hoping to get this clutch thing figured out and drive it more.

Check you clutch fuild level make sure it is full, I once bought a truck that the po said needed a clutch, because it would't go into gear when running, I took it home and topped off the clutch fuild and it worked fine. It did need a slave, because it leaked when it was cold.
Your starting problem is in the saftey switch, they normaly get bypassed because the keys quit working on that body style or if you don't have cruise control, to disable the switch find the switch and connect the two wires that are the exact same color together.