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Truck won't start after changing fluids
I posted this same problem to my build thread log here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13257810
I need help getting my truck to start. The steps I've gone through I'll outline by copying my previous few posts from my build thread. For clarification, the battery was disconnected for around 10 hours while I was doing all of the fluid changes and related work. I didn't hook the battery back up until I was ready to start pumping transmission fluid through the system.
Originally Posted by DIYiT
(Post 13257810)
I'll be updating with a full post soon, but I am looking for advice on getting my truck to start. I drove my truck over the the shed to start work this morning, so it was running 12 hours ago.
Long story short, I changed the oil (as I have always done), drained the torque converter, dropped the transmission pan to install a Punisher valve body, added a drain to the transmission pan, and drained and installed a Super Duty diff cover to the rear axle. I'm using Mobil 1 ATF and Mobil 1 75w140 gear oil. I added 12 qts of fluid to the transmission through the dipstick and attempted to start the truck to run through the gears so that I could add the rest of the fluid. The truck doesn't start though. I added more fluid to make sure there was enough, but I "over filled" it and the fluid started to run out of the breather at the top. I think the coil is firing as I can get my timing light to light off the coil wire, but I can't get a reading off of a spark plug wire (I'm not sure if my timing light as a minimum tach signal before lighting off). I'm pretty sure fuel is good as I can hear the fuel pump running as well as being able to smell gas after cranking for a while. And yet the truck doesn't start. Does anybody have any ideas for me?
Originally Posted by DIYiT
(Post 13258750)
I'm out in the shop again this morning; I pulled spark plug #1 to test for spark by grounding it to an engine bracket, and it appears to be good as I did see spark. I also removed the MSD timing control module for the Vortech for the time being to eliminate that as the problem. Then, since I thought it must be a fuel issue, I tried starting the truck off of starting fluid but I don't even get a single firing of the engine. I think I have good spark and fuel; the only thing out of the ordinary that I'm seeing right now is that the engine will sometimes "hiccup" and jump a bit after I finish cranking the engine. Any advice?
Edited original post from phone at 11:23 AM for more clarity
Originally Posted by DIYiT
(Post 13258807)
I hooked my OBD1 code reader as well (though I doubt it will help much as the battery was disconnected while I was working in it, so the engine hasn't ran yet to get codes from) with the key off engine off test I get codes 565, 10, & 111.
Edited original post from phone at 11:23 AM for more clarity |
I can't imagine anything about changing the fluids would cause a no start condition unless it is a diesel, but according to your signature line that ain't it!!}>
I would think it would almost have to be a loose connection some where that you knocked off/loosened while changing the fluids.. I'm thinking maybe go over the engine plugs and check each one to be sure they are all plugged in properly, while you are at it check the plugs on the trans also.. Did you unplug anything to get access to anything? And, maybe forgot to plug it back in? I know this sounds simple but I'm betting it will be something simple when you find it. Good luck with it........ |
That's what I was thinking as well. I've gone over all of the plugs on the transmission, and I've looked over everything even close to where I touched on the engine bay. Are there any sensors which will specifically prevent the engine from firing? I'm not even looking for a high quality idle right now, I'd be happy with just a few pops with a cylinder or two firing.
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Another thought, if you did unplug something and plugged it back in, you might unplug it again and check the pins in the plug, just to make sure a pin didn't miss-align and push out of the plug..
Hey, I'm grabbing at straws here..... Hope it helps |
I'm at a loss.
I've double and triple checked everything I touched. I seem to have spark. I have 12V on the fuel injectors. I checked all fuses. Fuel pressure is good (both in tank pumps and my frame-rail Walbro). I don't know for sure that the fuel injectors are actually firing, but I'm looking to buy a noid light set to continue troubleshooting next weekend. Do the EEC-IV computers support anything more than a basic code scanner for troubleshooting? Will a dealership have any additional tools that can help diagnose a problem? |
Weak coil? Sounds identical to a no start condition I had a few years ago with a MSD blaster coil. I had fire, but when I changed it to the factory coil, it rumbled over.
Like WhiteXl said, I'm shootn ideas out at ya. Other thought is the TFI, perhaps its intermittent and was only this time you needed to start the truck and it failed completely. I dont have the tests for the TFI, and I'm not one to throw parts at something. |
Originally Posted by DIYiT
(Post 13258863)
Are there any sensors which will specifically prevent the engine from firing?
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X2 on that!!
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
(Post 13259982)
X2 on that!!
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A neutral safety switch is circuited into the starting system, if it's faulty, or unplugged, the truck will not attempt to crank. Hence it thinks your vehicle is in drive and if you started it, it would kill 9 people. If your engine turns over at all, then it is not this sensor. This is from MY experience with neutral safety switches AND clutch safety switches
Other sensors that could possibly cause a no crank/start would be a crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, knock sensor, etc. Faulty ECT sensor can also cause weird things to happen. Your truck many not even have a cam or knock sensor If you're getting spark and fuel, and checked all sensors for good connection etc. I would drain your new ATF into something where you can re-use it. Put your old valve body back on and try again. Maybe that new valve body screwed with something? I've had strange things happen to me in the similar manner, you go to service it good and change fluids and the damn truck just don't like it. Good luck |
Originally Posted by Fordownsall
(Post 13260069)
A neutral safety switch is circuited into the starting system, if it's faulty, or unplugged, the truck will not attempt to crank. Hence it thinks your vehicle is in drive and if you started it, it would kill 9 people. If your engine turns over at all, then it is not this sensor. This is from MY experience with neutral safety switches AND clutch safety switches
Other sensors that could possibly cause a no crank/start would be a crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, knock sensor, etc. Faulty ECT sensor can also cause weird things to happen. Your truck many not even have a cam or knock sensor No crankshaft position sensor on this truck, only 96+ got those and even then all it does is check for misfires, if unplugged the truck will still run fine. The engine speed/position signal is from the PIP showing cam position. Also no knock sensor on these. OP, if you smell fuel after cranking then your injectors are likely working. Can't hurt to check that you didn't happen to leave a rag or something in the intake when you were working on the truck. I have left rags in stupid places (inside a hydraulic pump) before. Other than fuel, air, and ignition, make sure the exhaust is clear. Don't think you did any work on that but it can't hurt to check. If you have fuel (at correct pressure), air, spark (at the plugs), and exhaust, then you have a base engine problem such as timing. |
Thanks for the help guys. I'll be back home again this weekend to continue troubleshooting on the truck. One thing that slipped my mind was to pull and clean all the grounds. I'll take all of your suggestions into account next weekend.
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