226 I6 oil pan gaskets and packing ??
 

My truck has leaked oil since I got it. I'm looking for oil pan gasket sets online and have found everything I need (I think) to drop the pan and replace the gaskets EXCEPT the 7HT 6698 Oil Pan Cleanout Plate gasket. Since it appears to be dripping also, I want to replace it. Do you guys just make a cork gasket for that part or use Permatex instead?

Next question: Is it ok to just clean the screen thoroughly, of should it be replaced?

Also: Will the oil pan come all the way out without removing other parts? I'd like to paint it while I'm at it.

And finally: Do I need to replace the "packing" for the cylinder front cover and crankshaft rear main if I drop the pan? Parts are 1GA6700-A and 7HA6701. I have no idea how to do this.

Obviously, something else I've never done. Any and all advice appreciated.

If the rope seals aren't leaking, for god's sake don't touch them!! The manual tells how to roll the front and rear packing (rope seals) into the pan. It's no treat, but not really too hard. "Best Gaskets" makes the best rope seals, in my opinion and that of the machinist I use. He buys FelPro engine gasket sets and throws away their rope, buys Best graphite type. Best also provides a nifty tool for trimming the rope to just the right length, even give you the knife to cut it.

I can get the pan off my V8 without removing anything else, if I jack it up by the frame so there is more clearance between the connecting link and the pan. On an F-3, you might not need to, but the 6 is also different in several other ways.

I pulled the pan off of my 226 without a problem. I bought the kit to replace the gaskets for my panel. As for the crank seals, I replaced the bottoms but didn't want to screw around with the top one because I think you have to drop the crank or at least loosen up the crank bearings and I didn't want to do that. I have an oil leak in my truck and I'm pretty sure it the upper rear seal. It coats the underside of my truck so I don't have to worry about rust. It also leave a small puddle when I park it. I know, I should replace the upper seal but I just don't want to screw with it.

AFAIK, just about no matter what you do to the cleanout ring, it will leak. My engine has the Car pan without the cleanout, and while I was originally disappointed in that, I've come to realize it's a blessing.

Mac's has the gasket, 7HT-6698: 1949-1950 Oil Pan Cleanout Plate Gasket - 239 Flathead V8 - Ford - MAC's Antique Auto Parts

There have been past threads where Right Stuff (NAPA) and Hylomar (urethane-based) have been most successful.

Thanks guys. I thought it looked like I could remove the pan without much trouble. But I'm in Phoenix, and not under my truck.

Yes, I found 7HA-6710 kits from Napa, Dennis Carpenter, Chuck's Trucks, Mac's, Antique Auto Supply and Collectors Auto Supply. They all include the long pan gaskets and some packing material. But NONE of them have the oil pan cleanout plate gasket p/n 7HT 6698.

So, what do I do about that one? I'm pretty sure it's small enough to make one (probably 7" or 8" diameter). But I was wondering if anyone used Permatex to seal it instead. Or, does anyone have a source for that 7HT 6698 part?

And I really hope I don't have to do anything with the upper seals. :-hair

Look at my post again...

This is a comment about a product I have fallen in love with and not specifically about whether it would work for the 226 (as I have not worked on one). I use a product called The Right Stuff gasket maker. Much cleaner application over the Permatex tubes. Comes in a pressurized can (available at the autoparts places). Put it on and bolt up immediately. Love the stuff and use it on my 223s. Got tired of cork gaskets leaking and haven't had issues since using the stuff. Good luck!

Sorry Ross, that went right over my head. :-huh I see that's the correct number. I guess I was looking for it by the engine instead of the part number. That shows it's the correct number but for the V8. Obviously, it's the right part.

Thanks for all the input everyone. This is probably going to be easier than I imagined. (Shouldn't have said that...)

I may get some of the Permatex the Right Stuff to give it a try.

After I got home last night I looked in the manual for the instructions Ross mentioned. The 6 cyl oil pan description is on page 44. My oil pan does not look anything like that. It looks exactly like the one on page 62 for the V8.

Do I really have to remove the starter to drop the oil pan? This is probably a mixed question, because I apparently have the V8 style oil pan on my 6 (on my 6 sounds like I'm a fighter pilot... bandit on my 6 and I can't shake him!) :-huh

Wrong section Joe -- look on p. 27 for your pan.

The reason for dropping the starter is that you have to drop the pan almost straight down until the rear rope seal clears the main bearing cap. The pan rail can hit the starter while you're doing that. But if you cock the pan (at least on a V8) you can get it past the starter with much drama. The V8's also have a bracket from the front of the starter to a bolt on the oil pan that has to be removed.

Thanks again Ross. :-jammin I looked again... duh.

I'll be doing this after I get the parts together and have time to take the truck down for a bit.

I also want to get to the bottom of my intermittent "lock-up" problem while I'm at it.

Drop the oil pan cleanout plate and take it to your local waterjet shop and have a new one made. They can scan the plate and create a new gasket out of any type of material you require. This will work on oil pan, fuel pump, timing case cover, carb...

Thanks, and welcome to FTE! :-wink

Actually, I was told where to find the gasket so I don't have to have one made.

But thanks for the info anyway.

By the way, I like your truck!

OK, before I start putting this back together, I read the Shop Manual. Surprise!

It says to put a thin film of grease on the oil pan gasket to hold it in place on the pan.

Do you guys use Permatex Ultra Black or anything like that on the oil pan side of the gasket to hold and seal it? Or is that overkill? I really don't want this to leak when I'm done.

Ty, you mentioned The Right Stuff, which is made by Permatex. Do you use that instead of a gasket or with the gasket? If you use it with the gasket, do you put it on both sides?

And the book mentions using studs to line up the pan. That makes sense, but does it really make it easier? I don't have any studs so I'd have to get some allthread or bolts (if I can find it in the right size and thread) and make the studs.

Sorry for all the dumb questions... :-huh

Pilot bolts are very useful for getting things in place, and are cheap and easy to make. They are re-usable of course and come in handy on lots of jobs. Slot the ends so you can use a screwdriver to get them out. It really helps on oil pans to keep the gasket in place, too.