weight of 48 i6 and where to put it while rebuilding it?
weight of 48 i6 and where to put it while rebuilding it?
First of all what is the weight of the straight 6 in the 48 f2? And secondly what options do I have while getting it rebuilt (it is in a shed if it matters). So here is some back story as to why I am asking. the old ford engine is not turning over and is seized (I have a couple other posts about trying to get it unstuck with no luck). I borrowed a lift and got it out today (I pulled just the engine and left the bell housing for now). Truck is not at my house right now, so I drove it to my house and put it in my shed. I bought a 750 lb engine stand and proceeded to put it on there. I put 2 of the head bolts on the stand and the engine (the only bolts that actually go to the block). Did not put on the other 2 bolts. .... Well I went to turn it for just a second and the engine crashed to the floor. Not hurt thank God but wanted to check in with some experts and see what I can do better. I have heard of people putting the flywheel on the floor and working with it that way. OR Do I just use my current engine stand and add the 2 other bolts? Or do I need to buy a bigger stand? Or should I somehow get a table? |
I built a stand out of 4X4s with cross supports. It worked pretty good while I had the engine out the truck. That was 30+ years ago.
http://fatfenderedtrucks.com/betsy/betsy10.jpg Man, that pictures brings back a lot of memories. |
Bob,
What a great looking engine. I hope I can get mine half that nice. What did you do when you worked on the bottom side? I figured the stands are nice cause you should be able to just spin it around and work on the bottom. |
I would remove the bellhousing and then put all the bolts in, where the bellhousing attached, that your stand will hold. Mine has 4 and the V8 that I put on it held just fine and is heavier. I had it on the stand for a month, and rotated it several times.
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That engine does not weigh 750 lbs. I do believe I would install the other bolts and use the engine stand if you are going to work on it. Pictures of the stand and a better explanation would help. .
Did you attach the engine to the stand at the rear of the engine or at the head or where? |
It is a basic stand from harbor freight.
I attached it from behind (where the fly wheel is) |
If the "basic stand" is a three-wheeled type, be very cautious moving the engine around, rotating it, or torquing bolt down hard, after you get it properly mounted. It doesn't tank much to get the center of gravity where it will tip over. They are OK for static holding the block while assembling it, but don't go overboard. It's a long way out to the end of a 6!
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What Ross said about the three wheel engine stand. I bought mine used at a garage sale many many years ago, have used it on various engines and have been nervous each time I use it. I've never dumped an engine but every time I use it I tell myself I must put "training wheels" of some sort on it. Very poor design and built. Do use caution.
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So where do I put an engine?
I see now, they have some 4 wheel designs. Are those better? |
2 Attachment(s)
Maestro,
I came up with an awesome storage idea and will share it with you. Drag it down some stairs into your cellar. The laws of gravity help tremendously for this part of the operation. Then move it to a location out of the way down there that will be perfect for you, and hope that any female-type occupants of the house can understand the need to have such a thing in the house and also so close to the laundry area. Practice saying 'It's not leaking anything" in your most reassuring voice. There, storage problem solved. As for the weight....with the transmission attached....it is about nine pounds heavier than the maximum lifting capacity of your neighbor's Kubota model 3200. Enough to swell the new hydraulic hoses and make scary squealing noises as the bucket is lifted more than 24" off the ground. So around 650 pounds for just the engine. Provide beer and venison to neighbor while he waits for you remove the transmission so it can be lifted higher and hauled to the cellar stairs. See pictures for guidance. :-X04:-X04:-X04 . |
Originally Posted by maestro1024
(Post 12983611)
Bob,
What a great looking engine. I hope I can get mine half that nice. What did you do when you worked on the bottom side? I figured the stands are nice cause you should be able to just spin it around and work on the bottom. |
Originally Posted by maestro1024
(Post 12983995)
So where do I put an engine?
I see now, they have some 4 wheel designs. Are those better? http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pse9a6c3f4.jpg This is barely acceptable for a heavy flat-6 IMO http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps46a2ed03.jpg This is what I'd want to try to unstick a heavy flat-6 and be hammering and pulling on it http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps028dd714.jpg |
pineconeford, your post made me laugh, thanks. I have about 20 engines laying around (mostly Ford) but none in the house......hmmmmmm, that gives me an idea......
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ALBUQ F-1
This is for much lighter engines (4-cyl at best) This checks out. Serioiusly, this is my new plan. Return the stand in your first picture and get the one in the third. pineconeford Another plus. I can tell the wife I am doing the laundry AND working on the truck. I should get more time to work on it now :) Just don't mind the grease stains on the clothes, they will wash right out :) |
I have engine parts in my living room right now. However I do believe a complete engine would most likely get me suffocated with a pillow in the middle of the night. Well she just read this while I was typing it, it is confirmed I would be suffocated.
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I've dumped a much lighter engine using the 3 legged stand. They hold the weight okay but as stated are very tipsy.
Pinecone - you are the MAN. None so brave... :-X22 |
Is everyone's truck out in their driveway and the garage full of junk or something?
I rebuilt my 302 in the garage by cleaning out a corner and was still able to keep 2 vehicles in the 2 car garage. Granted I know newer houses have smaller garages (no room in front), and people have bigger vehicles (bloody SUVs). A thick thick clear plastic sheet wrapped around it when I wasn't working on it, and a perseverence to get it done in 3 or 4 weeks instead of spending 13 months on it. I kept the peace with the family no issues that way. Agreed on the harbor freight cheapo, Seems I remember the slightly better model category was beat by tool crib, or craftsmen, or even walmart or somewhere.... Harbor's cheap was too cheap - in the competitive it was worth the time to shop around. A buddy of mine bought a $100 cheapo aluminum yard shed because his garage was too small, now he keeps his mower and such in there so there is room to move around the end of the SUV in the garage. |
Brian,
I think there are are few members lucky enough to have an outside space to work on their trucks. I know that was my location for the first couple of years when I first started working on my truck 30+ years ago. I then was able to to move up to a unheated pole building and now I have heated space in my business's shop. It took over 30 years but I'm happy where I'm at. |
Ok, returned the other stand and got the heavy duty 4 wheel version today.
Next problem is, the engine has to bolts that go through to the block but all the other bolts on the engine (I don't have the bell housing on there), just hang off. Someone mentioned putting the bell housing back on. Is that the best way to go? Can I get by with putting 2 bolts on parts where it is metal hanging off the block? |
You may have to buy bolts to fit. You do realize those four arms can be moved to align with various holes in the rear of the block, do you not? Some arms may have to be moved upward, others downward, in, out, what ever it takes.
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raytasch, yeah I was going to see if I could find some bolts that were stronger than the head bolts (which are the same size) and get some washers too.
I do know those arms move around. My problem is only 2 of the bolts on the back of the engine actually appear to go into the block, everything else just goes into the metal/plate on the back. Is it ok to use these? |
Originally Posted by maestro1024
(Post 12990648)
raytasch, yeah I was going to see if I could find some bolts that were stronger than the head bolts (which are the same size) and get some washers too.
I do know those arms move around. My problem is only 2 of the bolts on the back of the engine actually appear to go into the block, everything else just goes into the metal/plate on the back. Is it ok to use these? For now, I would go to the active thread by Albqu F1, Short & Sweet, and see how he attached the engine to his stand. |
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