Hard Starting in the morning
 

Just lately my 2005 f-250 (100,000 miles) has been hard to start. I had the oil changed, I changed the fuel filters and air filter. I also found I had a battery going bad after running it down trying to get it started and replaced that too.

I wait for the start light to go out and it will act like it's starting but will cut out. It might take me 5-10 off the retry cycles to get it started. It been a little cold lately in the morning, at least what passes for cold in North Alabama (25 to 35 F).

It runs a little rough until it warms up and then I don't have any problems the rest of the day.

I blew an EGR last spring and had that removed but that was in May, but this is the first winter without it.

Any ideas?

Welcome to FTE. Do you have any gauges like scan gauge II, Edge insight or one of the smartphone apps like torque or dashboss? They are an absolute necessity in diagnosing these trucks.
Batteries on these trucks should be replaced in pairs. Did you use OEM filters on your oil and fuel filter change? Do you have the OEM oil filter cap? It could be a FICM issue causing the hard cold start. There is a FICM test procedure in the tech folder at the top of the forum or you could get one of the gauges mentioned and be able to check it from the OBDII port.

Thanks. I have access to a scanner, so that will be my next step. I think I also want to check my glow plugs.

You only replaced one battery?

Josh

I had both the batteries tested. The second one was only a year old.

Well... should always replace batteries in pairs.

Josh

Didn't know that a year ago and I hate to toss a perfectly good battery. Once I get the scan codes, I hope to know more. Once it starts it really is rocking at first till it warms up. From some of the other posts I read here, I'm wondering about my GP or GPM.

The 6.0 glow plugs are pretty rock solid and when/ if they pop they throw codes, same with the controller.

Have you always used the same oil? Most dealers switch to 10W30 when the temps start to drop, maybe you have 15W40?

Although if you've always had 15W40 year round and this problem came up...

Time to start testing the FICM as Mustang pointed out.

Josh

My money is on the FICM failing.. Check your voltage and remember it should never drop below 45-46v iirc.

Okay, I think you have me convinced. I've started reading the testing steps for the FICM and I hope to get it into my shop tomorrow and look at the voltage. I don't have access to the ODB III scanner yet, what codes am I looking for in the odometer trick?

I finally got around to pulling of the FICM and doing the repair. While I was prying off the yellow goop to the restistors to reflow, one of the restorors popped off. I think the glue was the only thing holding it on. Soldered it back on, not pretty but it is on better than it was before. After I got it all back together I got 48+ volts. It started right up but the real test will be in the morning. One good sign was a didn't get any white smoke from the exhaust and was getting that at lunch and after work heading home. We will see, soldering isn't one of my best skills.

On a side question, is there a list of scan codes and also the what the codes from the odometer trick?

Eds ficm repair are the ones that will solve your ficm problem,they have the swap program so your truck wont be down.try plugging in for a couple hours and see if that helps for the cold morning start

Replaced the FICM and truck runs great
 

Finally just decided to replace the FICM before heading off to my diesel mechanics and the truck is running great.. Started first time, no smoke or rough idle at all. Maybe if my soldering skills were a little better I could have repaired the board but it didn't work for me. The local NAPA had one in stock and it sure took a whole lot less time to swap it the second time. Anyone want a suspect FICM board? Thanks for all the input.

Man I'm in the same boat. My ficm has been slowly failing for over a year. I just talked w/ long lewis ford and they want $800 for the ficm and $220 for the install/programming. What a rip off.
How did you program your new ficm?

Its not the logic side of the FICM that usually fails its the power side so just replacing the power side doesn't require programming. The best thing to do is send it off to Ed at FICMrepair.com, it will come back to you and be more reliable than installing a new one.