Another lift kit question...
 

Alright so I'm looking at lifting my 2wd 85 F150 (Dont laugh, I'm getting a D44 twin beam axle from a friend in the near future)

I'm fairly certain that there is no difference between the 4wd kits and the 2wd kits for the F150, since the axles and radius arms use the same mounting positions. Can anybody second this?

And finally, I've found rockymountainsusp.com to be the cheapest. Any opinions on them, or other suggestions?

We have talked about using a 4wd lift system on a 2wd, but I don't know if anyone has ever written back in afterward and confirmed it worked with no problems.

How high are you going , and what does the kit include?

I think I'm going with 4". Comes with front coils, drop bracketry for the radius arms, blocks and add-a-leafs, power steering pitman arm, and a steering stabilizer.

The thing that gets to me is a 4wd kit uses the exact same stock photo, is part number 467 instead of 465, and is ten dollars cheaper. Isn't a huge deal breaking difference, but i have a feeling they're just blowing smoke on the 2wd kit, and its the exact same as the 4wd kit.

I would not pay for a steering stabilizer, it should not be needed unless you want it for looks.

The rear comes with blocks AND add-a leafs? That's unusual. The 4 inch lift I have gives you 4 inch blocks.

I am guessing you are getting 4 drop brackets? 2 for the center axle pivots and 2 for the radius arms?

What do they say about shocks? The 4 inch lift on my truck has different shocks, but i don't know if they are really required. When you are installing the lift, you could jack the truck up by the frame so the suspension dropped completely, and then see if the shocks would extend enough to hook them up.

Heres the description directly from Rough Country's website

"Front: Lifted coil springs, radius arm drop brackets, I-beam drop brackets, and power steering pitman arm.
Includes FREE Single Steering Stabilizer!

Rear: 3" lift blocks and u-bolts

Shocks: Kit includes (4) Hydro 8000 shocks.

Option: Available with new rear leaf springs."

4 drop brackets. Two for radius arms, and two for the axle pivots like you said. The hydro 8000 shocks seem kinda iffy. I wish I could keep the "air-ride system" my grandpa put on. Not quite sure on brand, but there is stem valve next to my trailer brake connector in the rear that adds air to the rear shocks. But for 25 bucks more i can get nitrogen filled shocks.

I second not needing the stabilizer but if its free well go for it. I have always used superlift myself but know others that have used your type system and they say that it rides smoother with the suspension that the maker promote with that system. I would go with an add a leaf if possible then you don't have to worry about block shift, but with a four inch setup it shouldn't be a problem.

I've had Hydro 8000 shocks in my Ranger for years and they're fine.

In reality, shocks are kind of irrelevant unless you are building something that sees any air time. Just pick some that look cool. I know someone will disagree with me...just telling you, it's my personal experience, "better" shocks are just a sales pitch.

BTW, Rocky Mountain Suspension is a good company to order from. I got a Skyjacker lift from them a couple years ago and they were great to work with. Highly recommended.

But do you need shocks with a longer extension for a 4 inch lift?

I would say yes they are. If you use stocker there is a chance it will limit axle travel. Either it wont droop enough or it will bottom out before the bump stops.

On another note if i remember my friends right blocks would cause either binding or axle wrap or something like that. I never had a lifted truck with blocks. I always had stockers back in the day. This is just a few of my friends that actually wheeled their trucks.

I have some axle wrap on mine. When pulling a trailer I can feel it, and I have had the rear hopping up and down before also.

There are several approaches to lift the rear.

1. New lift springs. They are expensive, and how do they ride? The ride is stiff enough already.
2. A shackle flip. This is ok, but it messes up the angle of the differential in relation to the rest of the driveline and can cause vibrations unless it's taken care of. Also some people have noticed the wheels do not look centered in the wheel opening after it's done.

3. Blocks. They are cheap and easy, but can and do cause some axle wrap. I think I have decided if and when I do something about it, I am going to build some sort of traction bar system to keep the axle from twisting, and keep the blocks.

Ok i thought i recalled that. We built a set of..... I think they called them ladder bars??? Back in the day to fix this on a monster 76 350.