Stereo Upgrade
 

Hi all

I am about to upgrade the main stereo in my 97 E-150 Starcraft conversion. It currently has a factory head unit and 6 - 6x9 Ford premium speakers. All are well past there fresh date.

I am looking a 2-Din DVD/GPS unit like this one eBay I want a DVD unit so I can play movies for the kids on the main TV while still listening to radio and use GPS.

I want to replace all 6 speakers with new 6x9 speakers and a small sub or 2 hidden somewhere in the van. There is tons of places to put an amp.

So what would you do if this was your van?

Were the door openings modified by Starcraft? I thought 6x8 was the biggest you could put in a Ford E series.

Jack

I will double check Jack. They are Ford speakers.

Thanks

ill take a pic and show you what i put in my 99 e250 ext cargo.

jvc double din JVC KW-AV50
rockford fosgate p300.1
jl w3 v3-4 12" sub in custom box

waiting on shipping... about to receive JL Evolution Series 2-way Speakers for the front doors.

watching movies sounds like your in the theater. music is awesome. people on the street look to see where the bass is coming from but dont notice its from my van.

dvd screen is big, touch screen and easy to work with, dvd in dash while driving is fun, i would recomend hooking up to a toggle switch, just in case you get pulled over. by the fuzz.

I updated the stereo and speakers in my 1998 E250 Extended Sportsmobile van this summer. I posted a thread over on the Sportsmobile forum. See: Sportsmobileforum.com • View topic - Updated stereo, speakers, added camera and speaker switch

I was worried about the increased theft risk of a big-screen head unit vs the OEM Ford stereo, so I hacked up the OEM stereo faceplate and made a fake cover for the new stereo. Details and pics at Sportsmobileforum.com • View topic - Project: creating a fake faceplate to hide new DIN stereo

I also installed a rear-view camera while I was at it. All in all, a very nice upgrade.

Yes, your speakers are 6x8, not 6x9. A goofy Ford size. They are easy to find, though, at Crutchfield and other stores. I got mine used off Craigslist. The OEM ones were totally shot, with the foam surrounds all but gone.

FYI, with vans that have six speakers, the middle ones are likely wired in parallel with the rear speakers. Doesn't really make a difference from an install standpoint, but it means the middle speakers are part of the rear loop from a fader standpoint.

There are some very good wiring diagrams out there on the Web if you need them. A search will turn them up.

The self install is pretty easy, assuming you are mildly competent with electric connections and pulling body panels off, etc. PM me if you need more help.

Yes, they're 6X8, pretty much "A goofy Ford size" NOT 6X9 speakers. Note that some companies sell 5X7 speakers as an "also fits 6X8" size.

Fords 6x8 speakers are a slightly odd size, but every speaker maker makes a speaker that fits. Some are specifically 6x8, while most are 5x7/6x8 universal.

It is most certainly worthwhile to upgrade those speakers. Even when new, they were quite... uh... limited.

My van is a 95, and has 6 speakers. It had the 'premium' audio option, which means it had an amplifier. The middle speakers and rear door speakers were paired together on the left and right side. They share a set of wires, and are wired in parallel, reducing the measured resistance. Aftermarket head-units will NOT tolerate this particularly well, and with either run hotter or distort at lower volume levels. If you install 4ohm speakers, rear left and rear right will read 2ohms resistance. If you are gonna roll with an aftermarket amplifier you will have to do additional level tuning to get the fade right. Verify its okay with 2 ohms on two channels and 4 on the others. Some common rail amps are not happy with that. If you DO have a factory amplifier, and do not want to use it or an aftermarket amp, get a bypass harness for an explorer. It will let you run the wires from the amp location directly to the head unit, saving you a lot of headache.

I pulled all new speaker wires throughout my van (easy, since I had the carpet out already.) I removed the factory amplifier in the passenger footwell, and installed a JL audio 6 channel inside the left wall panel behind the driver, along with a 300 watt single channel for the subwoofer. I pulled some 0 gauge from the battery and fed that to a dist block in the wall. I of course did a big 3 upgrade to ensure the power flows freely. An intake mesh plus a few vent slits in the top of the panel and I was in business.

Paired with a Pioneer headunit, 10 inch infinity woofer, a properly sized box I built (using Anderson Powerpole connectors, fits under the rear bench, easy to remove). The system sounds great. I spent nearly 1500 bucks, but you could save quite a bit with lower range amps and speakers. I could probably produce a system most people would be happy with for ~400 bucks, using the internal amp on the headunit and a small amp for the subwoofer.

I'm having the issue noted below, where my aftermarket headunit is distorting when at higher volume levels (not lower as suggested below). It's definitely being caused by the addition of the middle speaker in the circuit (my van only has one middle speaker, on the passenger side, due to being a campervan). When I updated my stereo I also put a basic toggle switch on the middle speaker in the barn door, and can easily turn it on/off and isolate the issue with 100% confidence.

So, short of running new wires to my rear and middle speakers, is there any way to fix this issue, with a resistor or something? Gotta admit that while I'm pretty good with wiring things up, I don't get the electrical-engineering/math part of things. While I know the easy answer is to just disconnect the middle speaker, it really rounds-out the sound nicely when it's on and I'd like to keep it live.

By lower level I meant it would distort at a lower volume level than a system at 4 ohms.

You can replace the left rear and left middle speaker with 8 ohm speakers (which will get you 4 ohms in parallel and resolve the issue) or you can replace the right rear speaker with a 2 ohm speaker and adjust the Front/Rear fade on your headunit. Some headunits do not like 2 ohm loads.

You might have to use an aftermarket amplifier to allow per channel adjustment. You could also use a cheap amplifier, use the preouts on the back of the ehadunit, and run only the single side speaker on its own. That would also allow you to turn it on and off (power the amp on and off) and with a bit of wiring kick on with the ignition/acc.

Something like this would be pretty easy....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Optimus-XL-5...-/280948543208

I've got a Kenwood DNX6990HD

http://photos.linquist.net/Vehicles/...IMG_0786-L.jpg

...and Rockford Fosgate R1682 speakers ... 4 of em, since I have a cargo van that only came with 4 speakers. They fit perfectly.

http://photos.linquist.net/Vehicles/...031%20AM-L.jpg

I like both a lot. The speakers are only $50/pair on amazon. I really like that the Kenwood head units use Garmin navigation - I am more confident that I'll be able to find map updates and such. I also installed a reverse camera.


I am definitely thinking about a small sub now that I have the speakers..

That's one very crafty faceplace disguise! A few years ago my cargo van was jacked for what I guess was the elaborate-looking-but-relatively-cheap Sony single DIN unit. What I did was make some front door window covers, install a partition curtain and year 'round using a high-quality windshield sun shield. With no windows other than side and rear doors there is little for crooks to see inside other than the blinking armed light for the aftermarket security system.

While not fool proof by any means since 2008 two different work/cargo vans have remained unattached. Oddly there's a lot more stuff in each one now than when they first hit me.

Hey guys not to thread jack, but i'm going to start compiling my parts for a Stereo upgrade in my 99-E-150 Mark III conversion van and am wondering since i have the tv and the switch would installing new speakers in the back and running a line out from the rear speakers be better than just running RCA's to the back of the van for a sub?

I'm also looking to do a Gauge Pillar to monitor the engine Oil Pressure tranny temp and vacuum since I started getting a puff of blue smoke on starting. We use the van to tow a trailer filled w/ band gear when we tour.

Any input would be greatly appreciated... again not trying to thread-jack

J

Some more details on your current setup would help. What do you mean by "I have the TV and the switch"?

Regardless, if your main question is about installing a sub, then you are best served by running an RCA cable to the sub from your headunit, preferably one of those RCA cables with an extra lead for a remote turn-on signal from the HU. You'll always get a cleaner sub signal using RCA-level inputs than trying to bridge off speaker-level inputs.

If you have a TV now, and assuming it has RCA-in for video and sound, you may also want to run RCA cables from your new headunit's video and sound out jacks to the TV. (Assuming you are getting a DVD-capable HU.) This will allow you to watch DVDs from your HU on your rear TV.

If you have six speakers in your van now (OEM Ford ones in the middle and rear), beware that you may run into some issues with aftermarket headunits if you keep the middle speakers, as they are usually wired in parallel with the rear speakers, creating impedance issues with aftermarket headunits.

My current setup is 100% Stock I have an On/off switch for the rear speakers. I also have an on off switch for the tv speakers. which i believe are the center mounted ones and the rear mounted are the radio speakers.
http://cimages4.carsforsale.com/3850...52785AF_20.jpg

http://cimages4.carsforsale.com/3850...52785AF_18.jpghttp://cimages4.carsforsale.com/3850...52785AF_29.jpg

on off switch overhead
http://cimages4.carsforsale.com/3850...52785AF_31.jpg

You might be better served by a valve job than a new stereo or more gauges.

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 185K miles

Conversion van. All bets are out the window. Once a converter gets a hold of a van you can fully expect not a single thing in the interior electrical system is unmolested.

If I were setting up a conversion van for a new headunit, I would pull the current one out and check for splices/shorts/hidden amps/addon speakers. Easiest way to do this is set a multimeter to resistance measuring and measure the speaker wires at the back of the factory headunit with the radio unplugged. If you get 2 or 4 ohms, then you should be okay. If you start measuring strange resistances like 0 or 600+, then you will need to find the amplifier/switch/splice and remove it or reuse it as appropriate.

Based on my prior, personal experience with older (early 90's) MK III conversions, I would just pull the interior trim and run fresh 14 or 12 gauge wire from the headunit (or amp location) to the speakers. The speaker wires are often split/scotchlocked/joined in so many strange places that are hard to find its just not worth it. I found one that had 4 speakers on the left rear channel, 2 speakers on right rear, one on the left front, and none on the right front. And it was built that way.

I take it, the rear and middle speakers are wired together, is it parallel or series, I would like to know the ohm result, I've been considering disconnecting the speakers in the rear doors, wouldn't that correct it to single on each side. I've blown the mid speakers again, has distortion, they are on an amp, hooked to the factory wiring up front, as I said, soon I plan to toss the rear door speakers.

I'll let u know as soon as i check it out!

The Valve Job is pretty expensive.. idk if i wanna go through with that..

^^^What he said. It will likely be easier to run new wires than try to figure out what you have in there. If you really love the idea of turning off different speakers, just add a cheap switch to the negative wire of the speaker you want to turn off. It's usually pretty easy to find places to run and hide the wire.

Sorry to miss your questions earlier my friend!

Typically head units in cars/trucks have separate circuits for rear speakers so they can be blended or faded if/when needed. As such they have separate circuits in the head unit itself. Wiring additional speakers into an existing circuit in parallel (the only way recommended!) lowers speaker impedance too far below what the power amp can safely "see". This can result in a blown head unit.

Not really sure how a six speaker set up aka conversion vans but my guess is those are not factory/OEM stereos

Removing or unplugging both rear speakers in a factory set-up shouldn't affect the head unit assuming you have the fade function set to full front. Currently I'm running a Sony unit that once had rear speakers but now removed---its fine as it is, the fade function set full to front only.

HTH

This IS OEM and NOT a conversion van, my van is a 15 passenger van, built by Ford, the only modifications are the ones I've made, I can only guess the rear is tied to the middle speakers because if you fade to the rear, they are on, the front doors go out. I ran speaker wires from the dash to under the passenger seat to a 4 channel amp, tying into the factory wiring where the head unit once connected, I didn't want them on my Pioneer unit. I constantly have the rear and middle speakers blowing out the voice coils and I'm getting frustrated, it's costly, the amp and speakers are rated together, and before I installed it in the van, it worked flawlessly in the car.

Some Ford vans (including my 98 XLT RV-prep cargo van) came stock with six speakers run by the OEM headunit. Two in front on their own channel, and two in the middle wired in parallel with two in the rear doors. Somehow the OEM headunit was set up to handle the impedance issues, but aftermarket headunits can have problems with the changed impedance.

If all six of your speakers play off the headunit, you can tell if the center and rears are wired in parallel by using the fader on your headnunit. Simply fade all the way to the rear and see if the center speakers are also still playing. If so, they are wired in parallel with the rear.

I put in an aftermarket Kenwood in my van and ran into impedance issues, with the sound breaking up or distorting. I've disconnected the center speakers until I can figure out a way to fix the problem.

Sorry, didn't fully read the previous posts. But maybe the stuff I posted above will help some folks.

I have no rear seats, built a deck back behind the seat that is over the axle, drop to bed, put a pad on the deck for a full size bed, subwoofer under it, the back doors are far from the seat, would be OK if I had 4 8-OHM speakers. I need 8 OHM speakers since I have 4 blown ones I guess.

Is the amp getting line level or speaker level inputs from the stereo? If speaker level, maybe it's at a higher level than the amp can manage. Does the amp have input gain settings that might have been changed from when it was in another car? I suppose the amp input can be so distorted as to overwhelm the speakers but I imagine it would overwhelm your ears far sooner.

I didn't find anything online about insufficient impedance being detrimental to speakers; it's detrimental to the amp. The consensus seems to be that voice coils give up from too much power. Maybe you're running more power for the same sound volume at your ears because the van has a far bigger cabin than the car in which you had the system previously.

Maybe we need to learn more about the amp and speakers being "rated together."

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 185K miles

The amp is a 400x4, which the max RMS on them never peaks at the max, it's about 75 watts, speakers are rated for 100 watts, thats what I mean "rated together."
I never use speaker terminal high inputs on an amp, I have it on the head unit VIA RCA cables, the gain is less than half on the dial. Look, my issue is the rear, the front of the amp is on the same speakers that I installed with the amp with the gain, and setting the same as the rear, but the rear keep blowing the voice coils. So, the Ohm on the rear speakers must be different than the front, having 4 speakers on the same 2 rear channels, speakers being 4 Ohm, if you can understand what I'm getting at, maybe you'll see the rating is a moot point here.
An amp at 2 Ohm, will increase the wattage in most occasions, if it's 2 Ohm stable, so I need to know how the rear speakers are wired in. I guess I'm answering my own question and need to jerk the rear door panels and unhook those speakers.

You say you transplanted a known good system from a car but you don't know if the rear speakers are wired in parallel. I take that to mean you took the amp and 6 speakers from the car, but didn't run new speaker wires. Is this correct?

To determine how the rear pair of speakers are wired, disconnect one speaker and see if the other speaker in the same channel still sounds. If so, they're wired in parallel. If not, they're wired in series. Assuming there isn't a crossover or amp in the mix, anyway.

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 185K miles

I pulled the working amp from the car, installed it in the van, then bought new 6x8 speakers rated for the amp, they winded up blowing the voice coils, I decided to upgrade to an even better set, and again, the same end, it's on the factory wiring from the dash. I should have removed the rear as they are far from the seating.

Maples see if this info is helpful: Series Parallel Speaker Impedance

I've not read it all the way though but a quick overview says its a good beginning maybe.


HTH

I know all about it, I have done stereo systems in a couple of my vehicles, my issue with my 99 is you have no clue how the factory tied the rear and middle speakers in on the passenger vans without removing panels and stripping the wiring harness apart.