Bed wood
 

I no another wood topic.I have just found some 1/4 sawen white oak.Guy will cut it and plane it for $200.I just have to do holes and edges.Would the 1/4 sawen be a better choice?

Quarter sawn is always more stable than flat sawn...thereby usually more expensive. Sounds like a good deal to me. Good luck.

not a truck question but I have never known what "quarter sawn" is. Hot is it cut; how does it look from other saw cuts?

reg1952, kiln dried quarter sawn white oak, for that price is probably a very good value. especially if he is doing most of the mill work.
I paid that for flat sawn white oak and thought I did ok, and did my own milling from rough boards. well I bought enough for a couple other projects too.

for sparky...
http://www.edroman.com/techarticles/...artersawn6.jpg heres a link to how a log is cut for quarter sawn. Is this white oak we are talking about?

Plain sawn (or flat-sawn) lumber has the growth rings of the tree parallel to the board's broad face. Plain sawn wood highlights the grain, loops and growth swirls of the wood.

Quarter sawn has the growth rings of the tree approximately perpendicular to the board's surface. Quarter sawn wood has the straightest grain,

Looking down the trunk, cut a log into quarters. You will get four wedge-shaped sections. Trim 1" off each face of these quarters. Those would be 1" quarter-sawn boards. Quarter-sawn oak shows a splendid ray fleck. And it's the most stable cut of lumber. If you kept cutting 1" slabs you'd get more quarter-sawn lumber, but, it would soon get very narrow. Thus, quarter sawn lumber is expensive due to "waste."

Jeremy

Great price, I paid $320 for some old growth long leaf southern yellow pine.

I have tons of cedars on my farm,,, have been cut for years, I was thinking about havimg them quarter cut, for my bed, does anyone know if cedar would make a decent bed. I was thinking 6" wide,

any opinions, comments would be appreciated

thanks

to continue, I was going to have them rough cut and plane them myself,,, I have access to planer and jointer, only problem i can forsee, is the recess cut by the wheel well's..

does any one know if you can get dimension for these cuts.... I cannot use my old boards as templets, unfortunately that is the part of my bed that is bad on both sides....
I could use cardboard and make my own templete though. would not be exact but i think i can come close.

this should help: http://www.clubfte.com/users/earl/Re...%20Information

dick r.

For use, cedar is a bit softer than oak. For show, far out!

thanks, appreciate the feedback

If someone that knows wood could help- I know nothing about wood- except Oak is usually used for bed- I have a bunch of BLACK WALNUT 1+ inch thick quarter cut and want to use it for the bed - I have been told it won't last (F3-garage kept, wood would be sanded and varnished/poly coated on all 4 sides) is that true? I knoe it would look great. Thanks Dave S

Quarter sawn white oak would be ideal . Very stable , minimal expansion and it will resist cupping better than any thing else . $200.00 is not a bad price if that is jointed and planed .

Looking at the end grain will tell you everything. To be considered "Quarter sawn, end grain will run parallel (or close to parallel) with the edges of the board...perpendicular to the face. With "Flat sawn" lumber the end grain runs parallel with the face; perpendicular with the edge of the board

My main occupation is building wooden kayaks, canoes and small sailboats. I use a lot different wood, from red cedar to Calif black walnut to build with and all have held up well in one of the earth's harshest environments.

You can use any wood as bed wood, but you really should at least oil it...all the way around, both faces, edges and end grain...especially end grain.

Thanks Sparky. That answers my black walnut question and saves me a few bucks. Dave s