Oh... I see... when I click on your name, they don't yet give an option for PM-ing or emailing you. Shoot me an email at xxxxxxxxxxx@aol.com
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MATHES: If you are interested in this top, shoot me an email at the above address. It would not be proper for us to be discussing buying/selling an item in this thread.
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I have a deluxe on my '77. Pretty nice shape. On the hunt for one sliding window knob assembly and the two emblems. The emblems either had nipples that stuck into mounting holes or they were bolted on because I have a pair of holes on either side that previous owner inserted screw and nut to fill temporarily. Also would be great to find a supplier for all new seals for Windows Andorra. Would like to disassemble mine completely to have painted to match the truck. As far as value I think they're worth every bit of $200 to $300 if they're in good shape. It's the only topper that looks right and Fits right on these trucks. Anything else is going to cost you that or more. Just my two cents. Anyone have any information on how they wired up the pigtail at the front of the cap to the truck Power?
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Originally Posted by mtford
(Post 17642085)
...The emblems either had nipples that stuck into mounting holes or they were bolted on because I have a pair of holes on either side that previous owner inserted screw and nut to fill temporarily.
Originally Posted by mtford
(Post 17642085)
Also would be great to find a supplier for all new seals for Windows Andorra.
Mine ended up being in such good shape I did not end up buying and trying anything.
Originally Posted by mtford
(Post 17642085)
Would like to disassemble mine completely to have painted to match the truck.
The surface layer is literally just disappearing in front of your eyes, leaving fibers floating around. I've got some resin kits for repair and will see if I can re-skin it first, but if I can't get around to it in time I may just spray some paint or clear epoxy there to save it before the surface completely vanishes. I hesitate to call it a "gel coat" because it's literally paper thin. Looks more like they took the bare fibers and gave them a thin layer of paint. Of course, it stood the test of time for 35 years before this deterioration, so I suppose I can't bitch too much.
Originally Posted by mtford
(Post 17642085)
Anyone have any information on how they wired up the pigtail at the front of the cap to the truck Power?
On my F350 there was a camper plug (only way I can describe it) riveted to the top of the frame rail between the cab and bed. It has four or five holes, and a shape that indicates it probably was meant to have a matching connector plugged into it. I simply ran an extension from the plug at the front of the topper to the frame mounted connector and inserted the wires into a constant power and ground contacts. Been working that way for the interior lighting for 30 years or so. Paul |
Paul on the nuts are you thinking possibly accorn nuts? I'm guessing they were the cheap stamp Steel with the edges folded over to make the shape of an acorn. As for checking with the glass company on seals, no I haven't. My door seal shows a little bit of separating, compression, and weathered checking but it's all there. The side window glasses almost look like they have caused the seal to settle a little bit in the opening. Causing the one top corner 2 shrink or pull in a little bit where it contacts the fiberglass frame opening. Otherwise they're in good condition. Do you happen to know where the camper harness at the frame rail got its connection from? Wondering if I could find that harness in a salvage yard and installed on a F100 custom that didn't have one? Might be a nice way to go to keep it as close to factory as possible.
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Yep, that's it! Must be too early somewhere. My brain just could not pull that familiar name out of the air.
I can't say I've ever seen another connector like it even looking through the junkyards. Guessing it wasn't common, but then neither were 350's or Camper Specials in the junkyards around here either. I'll get a pic of it too. Thanks Paul |
Originally Posted by PA74F250
(Post 12308599)
I bought one in great shape last year for $50. They are very heavy and a pain to store but I like it for certain things.
Originally Posted by Stinky7-11
(Post 12308923)
This one was free! I love it, thanks to a FTE member.
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I sold mine to another member.
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Fiberglass topper
Originally Posted by CharlieXLT
(Post 17597441)
I have one that I recently removed from my truck. The idea was to keep it in case I needed it down the road, but I have a feeling it's just going to sit there... for a while... a good long while! I think it could use a new gasket around the door. Other than that, I think it's in pretty decent shape. Have the keys, too. I am in Southeast Texas... about 40 minutes north of Beaumont. Pics below...
Hey Charlie, did you end up selling this? |
1 Attachment(s)
Don't know if it would even matter to anyone, but for the archives down the road, here's the factory decal with some kind of a part number:
Attachment 256307 |
Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
(Post 17741741)
Don't know if it would even matter to anyone, but for the archives down the road, here's the factory decal with some kind of a part :-huh number:
Part number would have a 4 digit prefix, like this for example: D3TZ Chassis parts have a 5 or 6 digit basic part number, body parts have a 7 or 8 digit basic part number. Suffixes usually have a single letter, but Race Track mouldings have a double letter suffix. |
DONUT:
As of now, another member is in line to get it. I had to leave to go to sea before that person could come for it, and I won't be home till next month. If that person still wants it by then, we'll set up a time to meet. If it turns out that person decides not to drive down for it, I will let you know. |
[QUOTE=1TonBasecamp;17643065]
That's what I'm going to do in Wimbledon White most likely. The surface layer is literally just disappearing in front of your eyes, leaving fibers floating around. I've got some resin kits for repair and will see if I can re-skin it first, but if I can't get around to it in time I may just spray some paint or clear epoxy there to save it before the surface completely vanishes. I hesitate to call it a "gel coat" because it's literally paper thin. Looks more like they took the bare fibers and gave them a thin layer of paint. Of course, it stood the test of time for 35 years before this deterioration, so I suppose I can't bitch too much. Paul, If you find a good coating to fix up the "gel"coat let us all know. Mine is doing the same thing with fiberglass fibers going everywhere. I have a couple repairs to do, but that should be straightforward. There are a lot of fishing boats where I'm at, I was hoping to locate a good glass guy and see what they recommend. I was also wondering if anyone has contemplated using gas struts instead of the old lift struts. That door is heavy though and don't know if they would be able to hold it up. Andre |
Will do. So far the temperatures outside have been keeping me from doing anything on it. Not to mention the rain dampening things that shouldn't.
Looks like with this wet year I'm going to have to apply another coat of "Spray-n-Forget" anti microbial killer stuff. The darkening color of the open fiber areas is telling me that moss is growing again and I don't want to try to coat over that! And the inside is getting moldy too, so it's going to get some of the spray as well. I already know how well it works because I sprayed it a couple of years ago and the whole top went from an ugly gray/green mossy looking thing, back to mostly off-white. Took a couple of months for it to do it's job, but at least it kept me from having to use bleach (not a good idea probably) and sand down deep to get rid of the stuff. So looks like it's going to be awhile yet. But it should be pretty straightforward when the temps come up and the moss is gone. I'll get pics along the way. Paul |
Originally Posted by CharlieXLT
(Post 17741968)
DONUT:
As of now, another member is in line to get it. I had to leave to go to sea before that person could come for it, and I won't be home till next month. If that person still wants it by then, we'll set up a time to meet. If it turns out that person decides not to drive down for it, I will let you know. |
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